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India-Pakistan border rite goes on despite tension

WAGAH, India-Pakistan border, June 15 (Reuters) - Every day, just before dusk, Indian and Pakistani soldiers with tufted head-dresses and iron-clad shoes march to a line dividing their countries and lower their flags for a decades-old ritual.

Not even the presence of a million soldiers along the rest of their border or the threat of nuclear war can halt the pomp and pageantry of the ceremony at Wagah, the only road crossing between the two countries.

With crowds of tourists cheering aggressively on both sides, soldiers open the huge iron gates at the border post. The two forces march in step with each other, legs raised to the sky and shoes hitting the ground thunderously in a bid to outdo the other.

"This ceremony has never stopped, not even during war," said an inspector of India's Border Security Force.

Just a few miles away, the threat of war is palpable in the Indian border villages of the farming state of Punjab.

Farms are sown with mines and troops sit in concrete bunkers behind a 20-feet deep ditch with floating mines, a main defence line designed to stop any tank invasion.

Tensions between nuclear-armed rivals India and Pakistan heightened after a December attack on the Indian parliament which New Delhi blamed on Pakistan-based guerrillas.

Although war fears have eased after New Delhi moved its navy away from Pakistani waters and opened its airspace to Pakistani planes, little has changed along the border.

NIGHT-LONG CURFEW

There is a dusk-to-dawn curfew and villagers have been issued identity cards in an attempt to stop spying by Pakistani intelligence.

Both sides are snooping for information.

"There are more than half a dozen (Indian) intelligence agencies active in the area. The army, border troops, local police, air force and central government's Intelligence Bureau are all active here," one Indian government official said.

He estimated there were anywhere between 70,000 and 100,000 army soldiers on the 550-km (345-mile) Punjab border.

"They are in a state of total preparedness, several lines of defence and all kinds of weapons are here."

Troops in the region usually rest during the day and perform movements at night.

"For us, orders are still the same, there is no change," an Indian army officer said.

Back at Wagah, tourists take up seats in newly constructed grandstands hours before the 15-minute retreat ceremony begins, with patriotic songs blaring on both sides.

"Pakistan Pakistan, my life is Pakistan, my honour is Pakistan," is met from the other side with, "My country, my country, I swear upon you, I will sacrifice my life to defend you."

"It is a very emotional ceremony and we feel very patriotic," said Shivaji Chakravarti, an advocate who has come from the east Indian city of Calcutta to see the show.

Dozens of guards armed with assault rifles watch alertly as their comrades finally slam shut the iron doors.

"We are in safe hands," says Indian tourist Sirajuddaula Imam, pointing to the over-six-foot tall border guards chosen for the ceremony. "Pakistan can't harm us as long as we have such tough soldiers to guard our borders." 

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