|
|
 |
 |
| Sunday, 16 February 2003 |
 |
|
 |
Features |  |
| News Business Features Editorial
|
Lace-making in Portugal by Dr. M.H. Goonatilleka Many years ago, lace making had been a lucrative domestic occupation in the villages situated along the southern littoral belt especially Ambalangoda, Balapitiya, Dodanduwa, Galle, Habaraduwa and the hinterland. Some local writers refer to it as a traditional, indigenous industry without knowing its origin. Renda is its name in local parlance. The name is Portuguese in origin and it is a purely traditional domestic industry much sought after by the tourists travelling to Vienna de Costello, Vila do Conde and Peniche in Portugal. Some of the museums in Portugal, such as the museum of popular art (Museu arte popular) display specimens of the articles used in lace making. These are well presented. For instance, the bobbins are referred to as BILRU (pronounced Beeralu). In Sri Lanka the lace bone is known as Beeralu and the cushion on which lace patterns are worked out as Beeralu Kotte Different designs produced on the bottom of the lace is called Beeralu Mostara in Sinhalese. Mostara is the Portuguese expression of 'design'. Origins The word 'enda' should not be confused with the meaning 'renter of Government tolls'. It simply refers to 'lace maker' which is Portuguese in origin. there is another expression in Sinhala, Renda - Rala which means toddy or arrack renter which is not connected with the lace making industry either. In the Portuguese lace - making industry four categories of individuals are involved; the makers, piercers, design makers, and traders. Piercers and design makers are the experts without whose expertise aesthetic beauty of the object cannot be maintained. Technical skill of the lace maker depends on the interaction of designers" talent. The material used is fine silk which is expensive and outstanding. Hook - lace is very expensive because it takes years to prepare a dress which is normally used on special occasions such as marriages (matrimonio). In Portugal, marketing of lace products, very often, is in the hands of itinerant traders who visit selected centres such as tourist resorts and fairs on festive occasions. Most of them bring lace products in vans, sell them to tourists at competitive prices. The expenses involved by the makers are reimbursed later. Since the Portuguese lace types such as secret lace and love secret, loule type of Algarve are favourites of tourists from East European countries they indulge in lucrative business. Some of the lace makers bargain directly with the customers when they themselves commission the work. In the villages of the Southwestern coast of Sri Lanka when lace making flourished, a common sight was the lady of the house seated on a low stool with the 'Biralu Kotte' in front. Scenes like that are noticed in upper Alentejo, in Portugal, where lace-making women wearing the traditional Portuguese dress sit at the verandahs a"A%4^„ with cushions on their knees and preparing lace used to make quilts. Lucrative One of our lucrative cottage industries such as lace-making has deteriorated today owing to the neglect by responsible state institutions. Too much red-tape and lack of understanding and a sense of dedication are factors that retard its development. We have a National Development Centre. We have also a National Crafts Council. Why can't both these institutions join hands to promote this invaluable cottage industry? We have a duplicity of handicraft boards. Has the Laksala opened an exhibition centre for lace making? Has the Gramodaya Centre consulted people with sufficient expertise? Can't these institutions assist the lace workers with suitable domestic funding which would make itself felt in the home? Ceremonial In Portugal the lace making industry is carried out in border fishing villages such as Caminha, Vila do Conde, Setubal and Azurara. Fishing industry in the Scandinavian countries has influenced lace industry in Portugal which is closely associated with lace-making because of economic reasons. When there is scarcity of fish and poor harvests women in such places adopt this craft to keep the home fires burning. They would dress themselves in ceremonial attire which would be a fine tourist attraction. Ministry of Industries here in Sri Lanka should pay attention to this aspect. Lace-making and preparation of nets could supplement each other. Lace-making could even be a pastime occupation. The writer of this article is Dr. M.H. Goonatilleka ex-head and Associate professor of the Department of Fine Arts at the University of Kelaniya. On a fellowship provided by the Institute da Alta Cultura (the National Institute of Higher Studies) he has travelled extensively in Portugal learning Portuguese customs and studying old Portuguese documents relating to 16th and 17th century Sri Lankan history). |
|
News | Business | Features
| Editorial | Security Produced by Lake House |
