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Welcome to Kenya

Vimukthi Fernando reports on an unforgettable safari in a land of warmth, colour and raw beauty.



The Kikuyu tribal dancers

The true warmth of a smile, born in the eyes and lighting up the face. A glimmer of teeth, set brilliant white against a face rich in colour, that of the fertile brown soil. "Jombo" (hello) says Jonah Kwambai, welcoming us with an outstretched hand. A glimpse of true Kenyan hospitality at the Jomo Kenyata International Airport in Nairobi. We are in Kenya, the 'safari country' on a tour arranged by Ncar Travels of Sri Lanka and African Quest Safari of Kenya.

So unlike his namesake, who shrank away from the responsibilities and was compelled to undergo the adventure of staying in the belly of a whale for three days and three nights as punishment, Jonah is an achiever. In no time, we are through a succession of forms and officials. Declared ourselves 'free' from the killer disease SARS, armed with the visas, baggage and Kenyan 'shillings', introduced to the hospitable and smiling female counterpart - Alice Sandas.

With more jombos, Karibu (welcome) and "this is all yours," Alice introduces us to Ayoub Hussain, our tour-guide and driver who is to be with us for the next six days. We are to "check in at the Serena Mountain Lodge" says Alice, informing us of the wonderment at the waterhole which could be watched from the lodge. Lake Nakuru, Masai Mara and Lake Naivasha national parks would be the other destinations to be visited.

Queries cleared and requests taken care of, we take the highway to the city centre, speeding past old cars, log cabins, fields of corn and maize, sky scrapers, gazelle, impala and giraffe !

Nairobi National Park, declared the very first national park in Kenya is just 20 minutes drive from the city centre, explains Alice as we bid her adieu at African Quest Safaris the agency through which our travel was arranged. "OK, we are on our way" says Ayoub and our 'safari' begins.


The Kikuyu tribal dancers

Safari, how did this simple Swahili word, meaning 'journey' become a favourite to denote the romance of adventure amongst tourists world over? Maybe it is the adventure abounding Africa. Whereas a journey in some parts of the world would be completely uneventful, this continent with weather conditions from one extreme to the other and teeming with wild life, always brought new experience with its portion of risk and danger and excitement to the traveller. Kenyans believe that 'safari' is born in Kenya, when the early European explorers arrived in the Kenyan coast. The great journeys lasting weeks and months were called 'safari' by their porters, the local tribesmen.

Home to 42 cultures, countless languages and dialects, Kenya could be said as having one of the most richly diverse social tapestries of the world. The history of Kenyan tribal culture dates back 4.5 million years, as of the latest archaeological findings at Koobi Fora, Ologresaille and Kariandusi. However the country is bound by a common Kenyan culture with Swahili, the language of the coastal tribes and English, the language of the colonisers as the national languages.

Most of the tribes have their own myths and legends, handed down across generations. Whereas the Masai tribe believe that the earth and the sky were once woven together, Meru people believe in a creation which is very close to that of biblical lore. Kikuyu, the enterprising agricultural tribe in Kenya worship Mount Kenya as the realm of their god, Ngai.

Kenya, is one country where Africa's beauty could be experienced in full. The wildlife, cultures, snow peaked mountains, arid bushland, scenic beauty, plantations, rivers, lakes, beaches, coral reefs and the sea, all offer equally attractive and fascinating options for the traveller.

(The Safari... to be continued)

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