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| Sunday, 15 May 2005 |
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Romancing the stones by Elmo Leonard
There is perhaps more romance in precious stones than in the heart of the most beautiful woman who ever lived in this world. For, a woman's heart could grow cold, or with age lose its glow, but a diamond (which is just white, in comparison to coloured gemstones) is said to be forever. Sri Lanka has been the world's centre for coloured gemstones and from time immemorial has given the world many diverse facets of romantic overtones. Among them is that Prince Charles mesmerised Lady Diana with an engagement ring, set with a priceless Blue Sapphire. The Blue Sapphire is Sri Lanka's gem supreme and can be considered the highest prized of all gems, while being second only to the diamond in hardness. The largest known Sapphire in the world weighing 42 pounds, was found in the gem gravels of Sri Lanka. A well-known legend says that in Biblical times, King Solomon in his wisdom used precious stones from the paradise isle to woo the Queen of Sheba. Factually, Solomon sent emissaries to the City of Gems in the Orient (Ratnapura in Sri Lanka) to procure the precious stones that won him the hand, and then the heart of Queen Sheba. Since, and even before, Sri Lanka's priceless gems have dazzled kings and rulers. These coloured precious stones have adorned their crowns and thrones and bedecked royalty world over, including Queen Victoria, in recent times, according to diverse sources on gems and jewellery. In the Adventures of Sinbad in Serendib (Sri Lanka) Sinbad became a household word among the Arabs and Jazirat Kakut or Island of Gems became equally known. The Great Aqua of Sri Lanka, with a weight of 1,890 carats in the rough is the largest gem found in the island. This aquamarine yielded a sparkling gem of 946 carats, which became part of a royal collection when acquired by a Saudi prince. Gems are deeply embedded in the traditional beliefs and religious life of the majority of Sri Lankans. Sinhalese mythology says that rubies were born when heavenly beings (gods) sprinkled the land with dew. Priceless gems are among the treasures kept in the relic chambers of great Buddhist stupas. Many people all over the world attribute occult powers to gems. They believe that certain kinds of precious stones have the power to ward off evil planetary influences. Many of the world's leading gem collectors believe that every precious stone carries with it different therapeutical properties and wearing of such stones prevents and cures diseases. Today, approximately 25,000 men and women are employed in Sri Lanka's jewellery manufacturing industry, according to National Gem and Jewellery Authority (NGJA) statistics. Traditional jewellery worn by Sri Lankans is handcrafted and intricately designed. However, to meet the demands of the international market, simple and contemporary designs are introduced. The finished pieces display a high degree of Sri Lankan ingenuity. The major buyers of Sri Lankan jewellery are Germany, Japan, the United States and the United Kingdom. In addition to gem studded jewellery, the diamond cutting and polishing industry is one of the country's export success stories. Around 5000 Sri Lankan workers are today involved in diamond cutting. According to geological surveys, 90 per cent of the country is estimated to be potential gem bearing land and the earth's greatest concentration of fine gems are found here with over 60 varieties of precious and semi-precious stones, which include: Corundum - Ruby, Star Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Star Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, Golden Sapphire, Padparadscha, White Sapphire. Chrysoberyl - Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye, Alexandrite, Alexandrite Cat's Eye, Chrysoberyl. Spinel - Blue Spinel, Red Spinel, Mauve Spinel. Topaz - White Topaz. Beryl - Aquamarine, White Beryl, Pale Green Beryl. Zircon - Green Zircon, Yellow Zircon, Brown Zircon, Red and Blue Zircon (very rare). Garnet - Rose red coloured, Red, Mauve, Hesonite Garnet, Spessartine Garnet. Tourmaline - Green, Brown varieties. Quartz - Yellow, White, Brown, Rose, Purple (Amethyst). Feldspar - Moonstone. Sri Lanka's rare gemstones include: Andalusite, Apatite, Cordierite, Diopside, Ekanite, Dpidote, Euclase, Fibrolite, Florite, Idocrase, Kornerupine, Kyanite, Sinhalite, Scapolite, Taffeite. A unique feature of Sri Lanka's gem pits is that there is almost never an `illam' (deposit) of any one type of gem. Always there is an assorted collection of stones like Spinels, Corundums (Sapphire and Ruby), Star Stones, Cat's Eyes and many others. Among the outstanding gemstones that Sri Lanka has produced in the contemporary era are the Blue Giant of the Orient (466 carat), Logan Blue Sapphire (423 cts), Blue Belle of Asia (400 cts), Rossar Reeves Star Ruby (138.7cts), Star of Lanka (293cts.), Star Sapphire and Ray of Treasure (105 cts. Cat's Eye). The first three gems are on display at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington USA. The Star of Lanka and the Ray of Treasure are in the proud possession of the National Gem and Jewellery Authority. Sri Lanka's exports of gems was a paltry Rs 15.5 million in 1972 and grew to Rs. 525.0 million in 1978, when for the first time jewellery was exported, which amounted to Rs. 3.6 million. In 1988 the exports of gems and jewellery had increased manyfold with geudas being added to the list (Rs. 526 million) in addition to Rs. 1,425.2 million in gems and Rs. 74.3 million in jewellery. In 1989 export of cut diamonds was added to the list (Rs. 1,903.6 million). In 1993 diamond jewellery left Sri Lanka (Rs. 240.1 million). In 2003, Sri Lanka's exports of gems and jewellery according to Customs statistics amounted to Gems - Rs 5,989.1 million, Geudas - 255.3 million, Jewellery, 1,107.6 million, Diamonds - Rs. 21,174.5 million, Diamond Jewellery - Rs. 346.9 million. Last Year was Sri Lanka's best year for exports of gems and jewellery reaching $129.9 million, an increase of 39 per cent over that of 2003. In 2004, 2,998 licences were issued to gem miners, an increase of 10 percent, while the NGJA carried out 543 raids on illicit miners. The number of lapidaries increased to 200 during the year. But, Sri Lanka's expanding gem and jewellery industry has during the past decade run out of raw material with only one per cent of gemstones mined in Sri Lanka going into making the finished product. In 2004, 500 gem dealers travelled to Madagascar to purchase gemstones and banks readily gave $15,000 in foreign exchange to a gem dealer per trip. The African island nation is a new entrant to gemming and her supplies are similar to Sri Lanka's. In 2001, Sri Lanka's imports of rough gemstones from Madagascar amounted to Rs. 159.08 million. Sri Lanka's exports of jewellery for the first quarter of this year dropped by 29 per cent to Rs. 243.3 million over Rs. 358.5 million during the corresponding quarter of 2004. The Sri Lanka Gem and Jewellery Association (SLGJA) which makes up the industrialists attribute this drop to the 15 per cent VAT imposed on imports of gems into the island, effective January 1. The markup for small and medium industrialists is less than 15 per cent with the international arena in the gem trade being fiercely competitive, SLGJA vice president, Ajward Deen said. Many Sri Lankans are now known to be taking the gemstones they purchase in Madagascar to Bangkok, Sri Lanka's arch rival in the gem trade worldwide. The country's exports of gemstones (including re-exports) accounted for Rs. 1.98 billion during the first quarter of 2005, as against Rs. 2.42 billion in the first quarter of 2004 according to SLGJA statistics. Representations were made to the authorities and the chairman of FACETS, Macky Hashim expressed hope that, that VAT would be scrapped soon. The only good feature with the 15 per cent VAT on imports of gems is that the exports of geuda during the first quarter of this year fell to Rs 64.1 million from Rs 71.6 million in the first quarter of 2004 meaning that the rough stones are being heat treated for Sri Lankan use. The SLGJA membership say, that the gem and jewellery industry is at its
crossroads. "For, instance, the industry is scattered, here, while in
Bangkok, the foreign buyer has access to a large variety of stones, in one
single place, most imported from Sri Lanka, for the visitor to choose from,"
Deen said. Another is that accreditation of Sri Lankan gemstones has to be
done by foreign nations. |
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