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The Mahotsavam of Nallur temple



Courtesy: Dominic Sansoni (www.threeblindmen.com)

A shaft of sunlight touched the Nallur temple towers as the faint crimson blush in the eastern firmament ushered in the dawn of the month of Aadi (July). Basking in the golden warmth, thousands and thousands of devotees watch Nallur Kandan in His chariot and worship Him with implicit faith and devotion. The faith of the devotees re-affirms the tenacity and strength they demonstrate in their daily lives. The devotees come to Him not only during the festival but throughout the year carrying their stresses, strains and worries and return with a sense of peace and solace. He is conceived of as Paramatman of the Universe while the devotees are children who come to offer their love and devotion.

The celebrated temple with all its grandeur and magnificence stands sublime in silent meditation amidst its natural settings in Nallur. The Annual festival is one of the most intricate, choreographed and spiritually powerful ritual in Tamil Hindu culture. The fourth month of Aadi in the Hindu solar calendar is dedicated to temple festivals in Tamil tradition. The Nallur festival therefore, starts just after the annual festival in Kathirkaamam. It is indeed rooted in the millennia of the culture encouraging total surrender to a sense of unity with the Supreme One. Yogar Swami says, Nalluraan tiruvadiyai naan ninaiththa maathiraththil Ellaam marappenodi kiliye, Nalluraan tanjamedi.

The moment I think of the Feet of the Lord residing at Nallur, I forget all my problems for He is my Refuge, I surrender unto him. The annual festival begins with the hoisting of the flag - the Kodi-etram, for which the cloth is ceremonially brought from the neighbouring Saddanathar temple, a medieval era temple that was  patronized by the Arya Chakravarthy kings of Jaffna. The hoisting of the flag is followed by various yaagams, abhishekams, pujas and ceremonies over a period of twenty six days. These ceremonies are conducted in the Moolasthaanam, the Sanctum Sanctorum and in the Vasanta Mandapam where pujas are offered to the utsava Murti. The panchalati ritual at the end of the pujas is performed at all the shrines simultaneously creating a beatific experience in the devotee.

The major festivals during the span of twenty six days are the Manjam, Thirukkarthikai, Kailasavahanam, Vel Vimanam, Thandayuthapani festival and Sapparam. The entire period is sanctified by these festivals where the devotees revere the Lord making it the social, cultural and spiritual milieu of Hindu society.

The Ther-tiruvila is the colourful chariot festival followed by the Theerthotsavam, the water-cutting ceremony on the next day. The Tirukkalyaanam, the symbolic wedding ceremony is also conducted and finally the lowering of the flag, Kodi-irrakkam. Each one of these events has a deep significance corresponding to the panchakrityas or five activities of godhood, namely creation, preservation, dissolution, obscuration and granting of grace in one’s own life. The highlight of the festival is the ther or the chariot ceremony.

It commences at the auspicious hour the Brahma Muhurtam when the devotees gather to witness the glamorously attired Lord, the King of Kings and Commander-in-Chief of the celestial armies, regally brought out to be placed on an elaborately designed silver throne. He is the mighty warrior who fearlessly wields the Vel, the lance of light and spiritual knowledge which overcomes the demons of darkness and ignorance. At that hour, the temple bells ring, the conch blows, the nadasvara orchestra reverberates, flowers are strewn from above (by the air force plane) as tens of thousands of devotees throng to catch a glimpse of the Lord and win His grace. The air resounds with the words Haro-hara Haro-hara! as the deity arrives regally at the entrance surrounded by priests chanting mantras, with royal guards in attendance. Time stands still for one moment as the Lord steps out majestically to enable the devotees to capture the splendor and colour of His beauty. In His regalia this is indeed Alankara Kandan showering blessings on his devotees.

The Chariot festival is followed by the Theerthotsavam, the water cutting ceremony where the utsava murti is taken to the temple pond, the Kerni and is dipped in the water. The devotees then plunge in to cleanse themselves of their sins. This signifies ‘bathing’ in the Grace of God.

On the night of the Theertham, is the Tirukkalyaanam, the actual wedding ceremony conducted by the priests and with the tying of the Thaali by the bridegroom, the Lord and His Consort are worshipped. The mysticism symbolizes the union of the individual with the Supreme.

He descends from the chariot on the last day of the festival swaying fully clad in green and the whole atmosphere reverberates with the scintillating words Earu mayil eari vilayaadu mukam onre” a beautiful finale to an enchanting mahotsavam. With the lowering of the flag, the curtain comes down on the Mahotsavam.

The Temple of Nallur is indeed an altar raised to the Eternal. Through worship and prayer, the intuitive Light in the Soul will naturally look for the Eternal in the sacred edifice. In recent times when crisis broke out tens of thousands of refugees from different parts of Sri Lanka took shelter at the Lord’s Abode Yogar words of prophesy panjam padai vandhaalum (come to memory).

Even if we are plagued by war and  The world burnt down to ashes, Will there be fear for Lord Arumugan is our Refugee.

And the Lord is there for all of us, why fear, I am here.

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