The Black Australian -Chapter 13

A Black Kangaroo in Broome

by Sunil GOVINNAGE

It was a hot summer day in Perth but inside, the air-conditioned office provided comforts to employees. Siri was one of the beneficiaries. As Siri had to prepare for a meeting at ten o'clock, he was late to have his mid-morning cup of tea on time. When he went to the tearoom after the meeting, he saw Robert Young sipping a cup of green tea and reading a report. Robert used to work with Siri at the University of Western Australia. Presently, he worked with Siri as a consultant, developing a statistical model for the company. He often interacted with Siri on issues such as installation of the new system in a test environment. Robert had once asked Siri's help for Janet - Robert's fiance - who was writing an essay on rare bird species in Sri Lanka. At that time, Janet was studying for an undergraduate degree. Although Robert was born in America, he had been living in Australia for more than ten years. Recently, Robert had been away on holiday and Siri knew that he had travelled to Bali.

"Hello Bob, how's your trip to Bali?"

"Bali was good, but our trip to Broome was better!"

"I thought you went to Bali! What's the connection between Broome and Bali?"

"Now you can go to Bali via Broome. About six months ago, the Broome airport was upgraded and now there are direct flights to Denpasar from Broome."

"I didn't know that!"

"Anyway, it was Janet's idea to visit Broome. She wants to write her Master's thesis on birds' migratory patterns in Roebuck Bay."

"Where the heck is Roebuck Bay? I only know about Cable Beach and foreign pearl divers in Broome."

"You are no different to many other West Australians, Siri! For many people, Broome is Cable Beach and that famous camel ride on the beach! In fact, if not for Janet, I'd have carried the same Aussie image about Broome! If we didn't meet my friend, Fred, an American living there, I wouldn't have learnt about many mysteries of Broome. Did you know that there was an undersea cable between Broome and Indonesia?"

"What's that for?"

"Oh, it was the submerged telegraph cable which used to be linked to Darwin. It was re-routed to Indonesia because of volcanic activity in the Arafura Sea."

"Who's interested in underwater cables now? Tell me about the migratory birds in Roebuck Bay."

"You'll have to ask Janet! She's the expert."

"So, your fiance is still interested in birds! Now she wants to study birds in Broome, right?"

"Yes, the Broome area hosts more than two hundred and fifty species of birds. One third of Australia's total bird species is connected with the Kimberley Region!"

"Wow, that's a pretty big number," confessed Siri.

"Well, there are more birds visiting Broome. I think about twenty-five percent of the world's migratory waders spend the Australian summer in Roebuck Bay. When the summer is over, they go back to their breeding grounds in Asia."

"That's a long journey! Where do they fly to?"

"I think the birds return to central and north-east Asia, including Siberia," said Robert, as he added more hot water to his green tea.

"Siri, before we talk about birds in Broome, I must tell you about the museum and what we saw there. There's a photo of a pearl diver in the museum. Do you know where he came from?"

"Maybe Japan," replied Siri as he had read somewhere about the Japanese pearl divers in Broome.

"Yes, there were a lot of Japanese divers imported to Broome, but this particular diver came from Sri Lanka!" Robert revealed.

"Are you sure? A Sri Lankan pearl diver in Broome! I didn't know that. It's like finding a black kangaroo in Broome!" laughed Siri.

"Well, go and see your Sri Lankan connection in Broome. Have a holiday! Go to Bali through Broome and you can have a double indulgence! After all, you will be happy. Happy people are like kings! After all, you deserve a holiday before we migrate a few more computer systems from the mainframe," advised Robert.

"I've to go for a meeting now. Why don't we continue this discussion over lunch tomorrow? Otherwise, come home with Janet for a meal, so that we can talk about the birds and Sri Lankan pearl divers in Broome. After all I am free these days; a bachelor again!" Siri said calmly.

"That's a terrific idea, as long as you can offer us vegetarian food! We can have it very hot though!"

Two weeks later Bob and Janet visited Siri. The meeting gave him an opportunity to learn another aspect of West Australian history that he was not previously aware of. Although Janet's interests were focused on ornithology, and in particular, the bird migration to and from Broome, Siri received a good orientation on Broome and the Kimberley Region, including the discovery of the Wolfe Creek meteorite crater during an aerial survey in 1947.

During that weekend, Siri made a visit to Battye Library in Perth and gathered more information about the Kimberley Region. He also learnt a bit more about the pearl divers in Broome.

Siri wanted to make a brief visit to Broome and send an e-mail to Bob about his decision.

Dear Bob, Thank you and Janet for visiting me and sharing information on Broome. It was a fascinating revelation! I did a bit more research on the Kimberley Region on Sunday at the Battye Library. It looks as though there is an opportunity for a lifetime of research on various aspects on the Kimberley Region, and I'm fascinated about the Sri Lankan pearl divers in Broome. I've decided to visit Broome in two weeks. I'll give you a progress report on my return!

Thank you again - Siri

Robert responded quickly:

Hello Siri,

I'm glad that you have taken time off from your antiquated computer systems! Happy travelling! Remember, happy people could feel like kings! By the way, when you go there please visit my friend Fred, who has fallen in love with the Kimberley Region. He is writing a book and planning to produce a series of TV documentaries on the Kimberley Region. He's an interesting character. I'll give him a call about you and I'm sure he will find time for you - Bob

Bob had included the contact details of Frederick Lincoln Davies, who was now living in Broome, having retired from his work at the American naval base in Exmouth.

As the plane landed at the Broome International Airport, Siri realised the importance of this booming tourist resort as a gateway to Asia and to the mystical Kimberley Region. The striking difference between Perth and Broome was the tropical weather and the feeling being away from a Western civilisation.

Before he left the airport, he realised the true multicultural nature of the place. At the airport, he even secretly started counting brown and yellow faces present around! Siri hired a car and drove to nearby Carnarvon Street, for his brief accommodation at the Moonlight Bay Motel. "Oh, you're Bobby's Friend! I gather you are a computer guru! Bob gave me a call about your visit. I don't have computer here! In fact, I write all my scripts long hand," the retired American satellite technician revealed, soon after he met Siri in the hotel lobby.

Although it was nearly six o'clock on Saturday, there were only a few people in the bar. The day before, Siri had learnt that both visitors and locals preferred to go out instead of flocking inside hotel bars on Friday evenings.

"What are your interests in Broome, Fred?"

"Land, people and weather! I think I need to live at least another hundred years to explore the Kimberley Region. This is a fascinating place, pal!"

"How long you have been living here?"

"Almost seventeen years! But I retired from my work seven years ago. This is the most fascinating place I've ever visited. A living laboratory on so many things. Most Australians are only interested in exotic hotels in Broome, but there are so many things to explore in the Kimberley!"

"How can I learn about the Kimberley?"

"Follow wherever your heart takes you! That's what I've done. In any case, you must make a visit to Wolfe Creek, if you have time."

"I gather it's a long journey from here. I'm flying back to Perth on Monday."

"Oh! Yes, it's a long journey from here. You must book early and plan to camp nearby."

"How far to this Wolfe Creek from here?

"You must first travel to Halls Creek. Wolfe Creek Crater is one hundred and forty-five kilo metres from Halls Creek via the Tanami Road."

"What's Tanami Road?"

"It's a track road. Tanami Road is a fairly well formed gravel road. It is, however, a lonely and isolated route from Halls Creek to Alice Springs in the Northern Territory."

"Can you get to the Wolfe Creek Crater via Tanami Road?"

"Yes, but you need to access the Crater through several small gravel roads. It's only accessible to standard vehicles during the dry season. If you want to have fun, then you must follow the paths that are known to the Aboriginal people."

"Well, I must first get myself fit before I go on long walking trips," confessed Siri.

"Look at this old body!" Fred tapped on his flabby stomach and smiled. "I've carried this old body along many ancient walking paths. My legs are still working! If you can't walk, then I can arrange a helicopter ride for you!"

"That's great, thank you. But I really came here to find out about a Sri Lankan connection!"

"Oh, you must be interested in pearl divers. I know a bit about them. Even most expensive pearls don't attract me anymore. Only fools chase after pearls and, of course, beautiful women! But I've passed that phase in my life!" Fred laughed and ordered another round of drinks.

"I don't know about Sri Lankan pearl divers. I know about the Japanese connection. There's a Japanese cemetery here," explained Fred.

"Yes, I visited the cemetery yesterday. It's a pretty sad and daunting place! It's a long way to come to Australia and never been able to return home is a terrible thing. I'm not sure about the stories of Sri Lankan pearl divers!" said Siri and drank the remaining beer in his glass, and continued, "Well, it was Bob who told me about the photograph of a Pearl diver from Sri Lanka. That's the reason why I got interested in Broome in the first instance." Siri mentioned the material he had accessed at the Battye Library.

"My interests are somewhat different. I like to know about living people, especially the native Australians and to learn from their wisdom. As you may know, the Aboriginal history dates back to over 40,000 years. That's a long time for any human civilisation. My first film script is about Aboriginal history of the Kimberley Region. I also want to discuss the Wolfe Creek and the Aboriginal connection. Do you know about the Aboriginal links and their interpretation of this huge crater?" Fred drank the remaining beer and scratched his bald patch.

"How big is it?"

"If my memory is correct, the Wolfe Creek Crater is about eight hundred and fifty metres in diameter and fifty metres deep. It's one of the world's largest craters and is believed to have been caused by a meteorite explosion many million years ago!"

"Do Aboriginal people have stories about the origin of the crater as well?"

"Oh, yes! Although the Europeans discovered the crater in nineteen forty-seven, the Aboriginal people have known it for a much longer time. They call it Kandimalal. According to Aboriginal folklore, two rainbow snakes formed the nearby Sturt and Wolfe Creeks as they crossed the desert. This is a part of Aboriginal Dreaming. The Wolfe Creek Crater is supposed to be the place where one of the snakes came out from the earth!" confirmed Fred.

"So the name Wolfe Creek must be an English translation of Kandimalal?

"You must be joking! In fact, Wolfe Creek was named after Robert Wolfe, a prospector and storekeeper from Halls Creek. For white fellas, the Kimberley is always associated with mineral explorations. You see, the Australians forget the local history and paint their own tales hiding the Aboriginal history and culture. That's a great pity and one of the biggest blunders Australians have made," said Bob, and he looked around the bar to see whether anyone present would challenge him.

"If you visit Wolfe Crater by four-wheel drive, you'll reach the Great Sandy Desert. Wolfe Crater just sits just at edge of the desert. If you visit the Crater by foot, you will realise why Aboriginal people have a tradition of rich folklore about their land."n

"This is fascinating stuff, Fred. I believe that there's a link between the Aboriginals and our ancient people in Sri Lanka. I know a few names that sound like the language I used to speak at home: Sinhala. Once, I was surprised to learn a street name called Maga Way in Canberra! I was told that it's an Aboriginal word for street. In classical Sri Lankan literature, we call roads or streets way maga. There's a place name called Wannamal, meaning wild flowers. In Sinhala, Wannamal means wild flowers!" explained Siri.

"That's very interesting! But only a few people are interested in those sorts of things. That's a tragedy. Everyone wants to make quick bucks. I'm surprised that a computer guru like you is interested in languages and folklore," smiled Fred. "You must go and camp with the Aboriginal people. Then you might be able to see the rare Red Kangaroos in the area."

"Well, I'm here looking for a black kangaroo in Broome!" laughed Siri.

"What are you really looking for in Broome?" asked Fred.

"I dunno!" said Siri and continued, "I was curious to learn about the Sri Lankan pearl divers and their lives, how they lived and perhaps died here. I don't think that they ever left Broome with the money they had earned or with their share of the pearls. After I heard the story and read a little bit about them, I felt though as I'm one of them, who had come to a far off land with no relatives or friends. I've a lot of acquaintances, but sometimes I feel I'm not part of the flock, unfortunately."

"You never become a part of any flock, Si-rii," Fred, continued, "Look at me. I'm an outsider too! So is your friend Bob, because he's an American and married to an Australian born in Vietnam. I've an accent like you, and I don't have many friends either. But this is a great piece of land carrying million of secrets of millions of years. I know some Americans who are keen to study the evolution of life using dust particles from the Kimberley Region. Your friend, Bob's fiance is interested in birds, and you are trying to find out about perished Sri Lankan pearl divers in Broome. Let me give you a few facts about Broome for you to understand the bigger picture. Do you know why I'm here? Asked Fred and cleared his throat and continued, "After I retired, I had the choice of going back to the States or moving into the Cyprus.

But, I decided to stay behind to learn about this fascinating place. Now, I live on my own in this wonderful region. Without any questions, this is one of the world's last wilderness areas. The entire region covers about two hundred and sixty-one thousand square miles. I don't know how big it is in square kilometres."

"Do you know how many people live here?"

"I dunno?"

"According to the last census in nineteen ninety-eight, Broome had a population of less than eleven thousand people. But do you know how many shore-birds migrate to Broome annually?"

"Maybe a few thousand!"

"No, about eight hundred thousand birds. I see all of us are like those birds. We fly from one place to another until we find the best spot to live! It's already here, right beneath your feet. You, your old pearl divers and I are those who have travelled. We are living right now and that's the important thing. The only reality in all of life is the present moment," said Fred, and he gulped his beer.

"You speak like a Buddhist monk!" said Siri.

"Look, Buddy, I've got to go. A visiting young American woman wanted me to have dinner with her. I haven't done any other work today. It's been a great privilege to meet you. Give me a call sometime and I'll try to fix you a ride to Wolfe Crater," said Fred, as he left the bar.

The bar was almost deserted and the dusk had already settled outside. Siri thought for a while and decided to go for dinner in Chinatown. Later, he strolled down the Carnarvon Street among unfamiliar brown and white faces and looked for souvenirs to take back with him to Perth.

That night Siri dreamt about diving in a strange sea with a dark coloured pearl diver who directed him to a deep labyrinth under water. On either side of the narrow passage were shining pearls; white, ivory, pink and even occasionally black ones. All of sudden an Aboriginal man appeared with a didgeridoo and traditional white paintings on his face and body. He stopped the pearl diver to find directions. The diver said something but Siri could not understand and he disappeared into an inner passage of the labyrinth with the Aboriginal person.

Siri started swimming with difficulty to the other end of the labyrinth, and half way through he saw two swimmers coming his way. Siri was unaware of the way back without the guide of the pearl diver. He paused for a while to ask directions from the divers. As they came closer, Siri recognised one of them. It was Rajini! Siri saw a shining necklace consisting of hundreds of black pearls around her neck. As Siri was about to stop Rajini, the person who came behind approached.

He was the French diving guide whom they met during their bitter honeymoon in the Mauritius. He carried an underwater spear gun and he aimed at Siri. As Siri had no time to move, he felt the sharp weapon going through his thigh.

When the dusk started settling, the blue sky that was visible as a part of the heaven began changing its colours. The azure blue mixing with pale red and purple colours stretched into the deep corners of the horizon.

The leader of the camel ride led another brief journey directionless. The tired camel herd carried a few happy tourists whose sole aim was to collect happy memories.

The visiting tourists wanted to carry as much memories as photographic images from this fascinating part of the earth. As the signs of hooves of tired animals disappeared on the foreshore.

Siri hung onto a camel's hump on his own, and watched other happy tourists in pairs moving slowly along the Cable Beach. Siri reflected on their journey-mere vanishing shadows on the beach, moving slowly forward, but as an impossible race against the inevitable dusk.

(Disclaimer: All the people's names and places appearing in this chapter are fictional and they do not represent anyone living or dead.)

********** [Correction ] For the last three consecutive weeks' the author's name of the novel 'Black Australian', Sunil Govinnage, was inadvertently missed out. We sincerely express our regret for the mishap. Mishap is regretted.

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