Visit to Holy Land:

Where the Son of God was born...

By Ananth PALAKIDNAR Following a tour of Israel

“The Church of Nativity in Bethlehem is the birth place of Jesus Christ and is situated in Palestine. Bethlehem remained a turbulent area since the Israeli troops withdrew from the city in 1995. But now the Holy Land, under Palestine administration, attracts thousands of pilgrims daily from various parts of the world”, said my tour guide Ziad, a Christian from Palestine.

My visit to the Holy Land last week was a remarkable experience where I was able to feel the true spirit of Christmas.

The entire world gains a festive atmosphere, putting aside all differences, and celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ every December. Millions are spent during the X’mas festive season throughout the world.

However, one could really feel the true spirit of Christmas in Bethlehem in the backdrop of the Church of Nativity first built in 333 AD by Emperor Constantine.

When I was being driven towards the Church of Nativity by my tour guide, Ziad, I felt the calm and quiet atmosphere of the region where the Son of God was born.

I hardly saw any form of decoration in Bethlehem. There were some ornamental lights in certain shops and buildings. However, Bethlehem still remained a holy place, leaving no room for pomp and pageantry.

My visit to Bethlehem was arranged by Moshe, who was my chauffeur in Jerusalem during my recent stay in Israel. Moshe was a Jew and he made all arrangements for me to cross the border which separates Palestine and Israel in Jerusalem.

Moshe told me that his contact person in Bethlehem, Ziad would receive me at the Palestinian border and take me around in Bethlehem. “You are a Jew, but your friend on the other side of the border is a Palestinian. So, how do you all get along well”? I asked Moshe.

“Why not? We get along very well and exchange our tourists with good understanding. We live on good terms, it is only the politics of our leaders that has separated us,” Moshe replied.

Palestinian territory

Soon after I crossed the border in Jerusalem and walked into Palestinian territory, a fair lanky gentleman received me with a big smile saying “Are you Moshe’s man?” and introduced himself as Ziad. I shook hands with him and got into his taxi which took me to the Church of Nativity where pilgrims from various parts of the world had gathered to worship at the place where Jesus Christ was born.

When I got down from Ziad’s car, he said, “Sir, you have even brought the rain from Sri Lanka and I must thank you”. Ziad said that the rain is a blessing in the desert region.It was pouring heavily when I walked towards the entrance to the Church of Nativity. Ziad who was a good guide held my arm and took me cautiously to the entrance of the church.

The entrance to the fortress-like church building was only about four feet in height. Whoever enters the church has to bend himself to reach the inner shrine.

The guide at the entrance to the shrine said that the Church of Nativity was built in 333 AD since St. Justin Martyr identified it as the birth place of Jesus Christ in the second century.

The Church went through several turbulent periods, with invasions and demolitions. It was rebuilt in 527-565 AD by Emperor Justinian and since then has remained the most venerated shrine on Earth. When the church was rebuilt, its main entrance was made shorter and narrower to prevent any invading army from penetrating the church building in full force.

As I entered the inner shrine, there was a long queue moving slowly through a small archway and I waited patiently for my turn with Ziad.

After waiting for about 20 minutes in the queue, Ziad guided me to the place where `Mary’s Boy Child, Jesus Christ was born’.

The very spot where Jesus was born was beautifully paved with a 14-point silver star on the marble floor and lanterns with candles hanging around the sacred area.

There was silence everywhere. Two nuns sat two steps below the birth place of Jesus in meditation and according to Ziad, that place which is like a small cave, was where Mother Mary had placed Baby Jesus to keep him warm on that cold, but silent and holy night.

Since it was a once in a lifetime experience, I knelt in front of the spot where the Son of God was born.

Kneeling down at the holy site took me back to my kindergarten days when I played the role of one of the Three Kings while at the Infant Jesus Convent in Ratnapura way back in the early sixties.

The Church of Nativity in Bethlehem is administered by three denominations - the Armenian Church, Roman Catholic Church and the Greek Orthodox Church.

The members of all three denominations in their different attire were seen walking around the church premises.

The Church of Nativity in Bethlehem

Spending nearly one hour inside one of the holiest places in the world, I came out of the church building with Ziad.

Souvenir shops

We came back to his car and I told him that I would prefer to walk on this Holy Land for a little while.

The surrounding areas of the Church of Nativity was full of souvenir shops where souvenirs made of olive wood were on sale for the pilgrims who visit the Holy Land.

The hilly terrain made me recollect scenes which I had seen in movies such as the Ten Commandments.

Finally, when the moment of departure arrived, my guide Ziad bade me goodbye with a big hug, near the Jerusalem border.

I walked slowly, looking at the sentry points and the watch towers manned by Israeli soldiers carrying machine guns.

When I was about to step into Israeli territory through the check-point, I saw a little boy from the Palestinian side running towards me shouting “Sir please wait for me”. In surprise I stared at the small one who carried a little bag. He told me in a hurry “Sir please buy something from me. I have picture post cards”.

Looking at that sweet little fellow, I opened my wallet to buy cards. Suddenly I heard a booming voice shouting at the little boy in Hebrew, probably asking him to leave that spot. The little fellow carried his parcel and ran away, waving at me. I too waved at him, but the face of that little Palestinian kid reminded me more of the Infant Jesus.