Soaring over Sri Lanka

IT was a happy and sunny morning, and fresh dewdrops were still sparkling on the colourful flowers as we drove up to the garden of a serene Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of Colombo. Skirting the main buildings and the long row of large votive statues, we came to a small jetty on the grassy banks of a scenic lake.

On the far side of the placid waters were two gaily-painted aircraft, their sides decorated with cheerful depictions of local tourist attractions.

This was my introduction to one of Sri Lanka's newest and most exhilarating attractions - travel by seaplane.

The Sri Lankan Air Taxi, as the innovative new service is called, connects the capital city of Colombo with key tourism destinations across the country that have lakes, lagoons and large reservoirs.

Their 15-seater Twin Otter aeroplanes on straight floats provide scheduled flights with charters, and the ever-popular panoramic Aerial Tours are also available.

Wholly-owned by the national carrier SriLankan Airlines, the seaplane service provides convenient connections to international flights at the nearby international airport.

My thoughts were suddenly distracted by the loud roar of turboprop engines coming alive, followed by the distinctive whirr of the old-fashioned propellers - a louder version of the large and rather antiquated table-fan in my office. As we watched, the brightly-coloured aircraft moved slowly across the water, then gracefully docked at the little pontoon jetty.

Inside, the cabin of the sturdy aircraft was sparse but comfortable, with luggage being stowed in the space at the back. With just two seats on each side of the aisle, the plane allows

every passenger a great view through the windows. And what a view it was!

As the aircraft taxied down the lake, I was treated to an unrolling diorama of the typical Sri Lankan village - life along its banks. Suddenly, I realised that we were airborne, with hardly a whisper of change in the steady drone of the propellers. Beneath me unfolded a magical tapestry of the suburbs of Colombo, followed by green fields, rustic villages, meandering rivers and verdant forests.

If I wax poetic, it is because flying over such splendid scenery in a small aircraft is a genuinely enthralling experience. Soon we were heading out to sea, where fishing boats and sailing craft dotted the clear turquoise waters. The pristine coastline approached, with miles of unspoilt beige beaches.

As the Sri Lankan Air Taxi descended, the tree-tops of lush tropical forests formed a thick carpet beneath us. In their midst, a large tranquil body of water opened up, which turned out to be a reservoir. After a silky-smooth landing which most of the passengers did not even notice, we cruised towards the jetty of what looked like a luxurious country club or venerable old park, with elegant colonial buildings, manicured lawns and stately old trees.

It turned out to be a high-security army camp! After all formalities were completed, we boarded a plush mini-bus of the appropriately named King's Tours and headed out for the scenic seaside resort of Galle.

A brief overnight stay at the Lighthouse Hotel with its unusual architecture (I never did see a lighthouse!) and stunning seaside views, an equally quick tour of the famous Galle Fort, and I was off again of the trusty seaplane, this time heading for Dikwella and the picturesque colonial hill station of Kandy.

On this route the scenery beneath our wings was of magnificent mountains, amazing sheer rock outcrops, vast stretches of unbroken forest canopy and even more idyllic rural scenes. Another silky-smooth landing, and we were trundling off on one of the ubiquitous tuk-tuk, for tea at the dignified Mahaweli Reach, an immaculately-kept colonial hotel that would put Singapore's Raffles and Bangkok's Oriental to shame.

The drive from Kandy to Colombo, with shopping stops and toilet breaks, took a full six hours. I recommend it highly as an excellent way to see the country and to experience its fascinating potpourri of colour, culture and cuisine - but I couldn't help hankering for the convenience and celestial experience of the 25-minute flight on the whirring, wonderful Sri Lankan Air Taxi!

Riding in a seaplane is a wonderful way to see a country. From the cold climes of Canada and Russia to the tropical destinations of Seychelles and the Philippines, more and more tourists are enjoying the novel experience of a seaplane ride.

Here are some things to look out for:

Convenient and scenic boarding points: No long drives to out-of-the way airports anymore! Seaplanes often take you right to your resort or hotel, with just a short jetty or small pontoon connecting you to your destination.

The Star, Malaysia