Bogoda Bridge a marvel of history

by Manjula Fernando

We were on a three day pleasure trip to Badulla and Nuwara Eliya in a hired Toyota Dolphin. Half way into our journey there was a call from my uncle, a forest officer with over 30 years working experience all over the country.

“You should never miss the ancient wooden bridge in Badulla. It is amazing and the kids must see it, “ was his advice.

My two office colleagues and our families had better things in mind. We had to make this trip enjoyable as much as possible. It was our way of rejuvenating and getting ready for another hectic year ahead. With young schooling kids and a demanding office front, all three of us and the spouses were looking for a means to let out the steam. The last thing on mind was another educational outing.

Muthiyangana temple

The cave where King Walagamba found refuge during his days of hiding

The 'awasa ge' built by King Sri Wickrema Rajasinghe

The entrance to the 22km long secret tunnel

The historic Bogoda bridge and the 2000 year old Temple across the river. The bridge needs urgent restoration

However, what we heard at the historic Muthiyangana temple, from one of the bhikkhus – Iskole Hamuduruvo - roused our curiosity and we decided to pay a visit to the Sacred Bogoda temple and the wooden bridge.

After tying ‘pirith nool’ on each one of us the bhikkhu invited the whole group to sit down on the floor. Beginning with a brief history of Muthiyangana Rajamaha Vihara, Iskole Hamuduruvo spoke of the Bogoda Temple and the famous bridge, which is renowned as the oldest surviving wooden bridge in the world.

The place, we were told, was situated 10 km from Hali Ela.

“The Nayaka Hamuduruwo is a friend of mine, so do let me know if you go there,” he offered.

But it was not till the day of return, we had the chance of visiting this historic place surrounded by mythical stories of King Walagamba finding refuge in the cave temple and the adjoining tunnel during his days of hiding and the secret mission of recapturing the throne.

Dunhinda Falls

The first two days we were struggling down the impossible trek to breathtaking Dunhinda Falls, and cycling and horse-riding in Nuwara Eliya by the Gregory's Lake which had seen an amazing transformation due to development work by the UDA.

The road to Bogoda bridge was not an easy one. From Badulla to Hali Ela was a smooth journey, as well as the nearly eight kilometre stretch to Jagulla junction. The next three kilometres to the temple proved impossible. Part of the road was under construction.

Nevertheless, all as one were determined to make it to the temple. We decided to park the vehicle near Jagulla junction much to the relief of the driver.

All of us packed into two trishaws and began to tread the difficult path which had been laid with metal stones in preparation to spray road tar. Half way, a worker warned the work is about to begin and there will be a long wait to go back. Crestfallen, we all got down from the vehicles. Just then an elderly bi-spectacled person came to our rescue. He reassured that it will take a few more hours to that stage. We had plenty of time to visit the temple. His was a merciful act of reassuring and we lost no time.

We parked near an ancient looking bo-tree and descended the narrow unending fleet of moss covered steps to the temple. The tree had its own story.

The Temple

The main entrace to the temple - the door is beleived to be bult by King Walagamba Two Kimbuk-logs support the bridge

Despite the grandeur of its history and the legend, the place had only one group of visitors. A family of four.

The bridge stood idle and grand to the distant view but the temple was smaller and the place looked deserted if not for the family.

“The temple has a very old history. Much older than the bridge that stands here,” Chief Incumbent of the Bogoda Temple, Ven.Atampitiye Rahula Thera, 57, began.

“It dates back to the 1st century BC. According to folklore, this cave was a place where king Walagamba hid with his soldiers to regroup and attack the South Indian invaders. It says that he had lived here for three years out of the total 14 years of hiding.”

He was protected there by Brahmadatta who was the son of the ruler of Uva, Tissa.

The king had selected this cave due to a tunnel that leads in two directions. If attacked he had plausible means to withdraw and protect himself. The tunnel is said to be 22km long. Its openings are found at Narangala Hill in Badulla and Dowa Temple in Bandarawela.The tunnel entrance at Dowa temple has now been temporarily closed.

“We used to go into the tunnel as young kids but it has now been closed from Dowa temple and there has never been any archaeological excavation of this cave to my knowledge,” the Nayaka Thera said upon inquiry and added “probably a proper archaeological excavation may unearth a history that is unknown to us”. A temple was built here by King Walagamba following his recapture of the throne. He had offered it to Arahat Bhaddiya Thera. Two Brahmin inscriptions that exist there even today however, relate a different story about the temple. Prof. Paranavithana had translated these stone inscriptions in 1948. These confirm that the temple dates back to 1st century BC.

“Those inscriptions say this temple was offered to Arahat Bhaddiya by Brahmadatta, the son of the Ruler of Uva. Then the second inscription which is newer than the first one says the temple was again offered to a monk by an ‘Upasaka Matha’.”

The roof of the rock cave has carvings to protect it from dripping rain water. When rain falls these carvings serve as rain gutters to stop water from seeping inside.

The unique feature of this temple is a door that is believed to have been built under the inspection of King Walagamba himself. It has a unique six piece wooden structure, different from the ones seen elsewhere. The two doors have been built with single planks of wood.

Above the feet of the sleeping Buddha statue, is a closed window that leads to a inner chamber where you find a six and a half feet sculpture of a standing Lord Vishnu. This Vishnu Devalaya is believed to have been built during Polonnaruwa era.

Makara Thorana

Another special feature was a ‘Makara Thorana’ over the seated Buddha, which was on to the left side of the temple. This structure of the mythical creature, Makara (dragon), consists of an Elephant’s trunk, pig’s ear, Monkey’s eye, Crocodile’s mouth, body of a fish, lion’s feet and the tail of Gurula, a mythical bird that is believed to be the vehicle of Lord Vishnu. The Makara Thorana has been built with a mixture of Bees’ Honey, Cotton wool and (kiri meti) clay.

Most of the structures in the temple has been destroyed and rebuilt during Dambadeniya and Kandy eras.

The 'Awasa Geya' of the temple has been built and donated to monks by King Sri Wickrema Rajasinghe. Before that the Monks lived in the cave. He has also made important renovations to the temple and the outer temple with statues of a god, the king and a mythical creature, was built during his era.

Wooden Bridge

The bridge is a marvel of history. But unlike the temple built some thousands of years ago, the bridge is relatively young.

According to the chief incumbent, the bridge has been built in 1600s by King Parakramabahu IV. Gallanda Oya, a tributary of Uma Oya which springs up from Narangala hill flows down the bridge gracefully over the rocky terrain below.

“This has been a bridge during the day time and a resting place (ambalama) during the night,” the chief incumbent explained to us.

Before the British built roads in the hill country, people used narrow walking paths to travel long distances. This place was a key passing point for people in Badulla, Nuwara Eliya and Mahiynaganaya when visiting Temple of the Tooth in Kandy. The King had built this bridge partly as a resting place for the long distance travellers who were mostly pilgrims to Kandy.

The bo-tree near which we parked the three-wheelers was the landmark for the pilgrims to Bogoda point.

The Nayaka Thera recited the following folk song which gave direction to the pilgrims.

Ketawala Bogoda gampasu karamin, Lunu Galle Gam Medin Ayana

Bandiyada Hela Kandath Pasukara, Gala Uda Ampitiye Sevana

Ratnayaka Gamage Surasena, 67, a distant relative of the Nayake Hamuduruwo is the caretaker of the temple attending to numerous duties. He recited a folklore that had passed on from generation to generation.

“There is an interesting story behind the construction of this bridge. Before the work on the bridge started, those in charge first visited the Vishnu Devale on the side of the temple to make a vow and seek blessings of the god.”

Today such jobs are completed within hours thanks to the latest technology and giant machines but at a time all this was never heard of, such tasks were undertaken with enormous risk to life.

“The next day they went to Narangala hill to cut the trees needed for the bridge. After several days, when the trees have all been cut, they came back to the temple to rest.

The following day, they met with a big surprise. They found the logs which had been at Narangala Hill being moved closer to the Temple. The second day they were found right at the foot of the stream.”

The bridge with a 54 ft length and 5 ½ ft width is supported by three enormous logs of Jak at the base. Its height is 8 ft. The bridge rests on two Kumbuk logs. During the earlier times it was supported by rocks but the Archeology Department in 1984 placed concrete at the base of the Kumbuk logs to protect it from moving rocks that flows with the current during the rainy season.

The villagers believe the wooden bridge is blessed by gods as it has withstood the test of time for over 2000 years.

The chief craftsman of the bridge is said to be the son of the craftsman who built the famous 'Panapitiya Ambalama' in Dambadeniya, Kurunegala.

As we got ready to depart, the caretaker reminded us to pen a few words about the condition of the road to the temple. “This is the main reason why there are very few visitors to the temple. Some days we don't get anyone coming.

“There is some construction going on but I believe the road has to be built completely, ad hoc renovations will create more problems,” he voiced concern.