Glimpses of serenity at Batatota cave temple

By Mahil Wijesinghe

The undulating terraces of tea bushes provide a sight of luscious greenery. Tea pluckers with baskets on their backs move from bush to bush, plucking a leaf and a bud from each bush, and dropping them with lightning speed in their baskets. This is a common sight upcountry. At a particular point, the Adam’s Peak can be seen rising through the mist.

The sleepy village of Erathna, a mountainous hamlet, lies just 20 kilometres from Kuruwita. Nature has blessed this village and one can see the profusion of wilderness on all sides. It is on the foothills of Sri Pada or Adam’s Peak.

There is an arduous, but adventurous route to Sri Pada from Erathna. It leads to the summit through the wilderness. Pilgrims to Sri Pada take this route because it provides them the opportunity to experience the natural beauty of the country and the salubrious climate of the area.

Most of the villagers of Erathna make a living through small-scale tea plantations and by producing jaggery from the Kitul palm. The abundance of Kitul palms in Erathna has enabled villagers to make Kitul jaggery as a means of livelihood. Having travelled eight kilometres on the narrow Kuruwita - Erathna road, we reached a small junction called Batatota. We then proceeded another one-and-a-half kilometres on the steep incline and arrived at a car park right in the centre of the incline.

Vertical steps

The impressive Makara Thorana

The Vishnu Devala in the cave

The Makara Thorana and Stupa

From the car park, just over a quarter of a kilometre away, the neatly built vertical steps flanked by vendors on both sides lead to the Batatota cave temple, which is also believed by some to be the ancient site of Diwaguhawa. The site is not only famous for its ancient monastery, but also for its majestic dagaba and ancient murals. What appeals to visitors is the wilderness and the panoramic view of Sri Pada, which is about 15 kilometres from the east of this spot.

The Batatota cave temple, which was once neglected, has now earned fame as a religious site. It is revered by Buddhists in Sri Lanka. During weekends and holidays, hundreds of visitors throng this ancient cave.

A spacious car park has been built on the mountain, just below the cave temple, for visitors. Since the spot has gained popularity, villagers make a livelihood, selling Kitul jaggery and hand-made souvenirs to visitors who trek to the sacred precincts. The road to the cave is lined by these vendors.

Religious significance

Considering the religious significance of the spot, the Batatota Ancient Cave Temple Renovation Society was set up and a program to renovate the cave temple was launched.

In the cave shrine, several cross-legged and a single reclining Buddha statue can be seen. However, it is difficult to ascertain the period to which they belong. Most of the statues and paintings in this cave temple have been renovated several times. The paintings have also been touched up at different times.

The isolated cave was rediscovered in 1908 by Sri Subethi, an erudite bhikkhu who took great efforts to renovate it and built a devala, a place where religious rites are held for gods outside the shrine. After the bhikkhu’s demise, the site was again abandoned.

It has become a haven for treasure hunters. On an earlier visit in 2005, we found that some of the statues had been destroyed by treasure hunters. However, on a recent trip, we found the vandalised statues restored to their pristine glory.

In 1995, Ven. Balangoda Ananda Maithreya Mahanayaka Thera again identified this ancient cave temple as the Diwaguhawa. It is now a famous Buddhist site among devotees who make an annual pilgrimage to the Sri Pada, via the Erathna route.

A remarkable feature is the water dripping from the rock ceiling, even during spells of dry weather. A pond has been built in the centre of the cave in which a figure of a frog has been created. The water drips into the pond. When it is sunny, rays of sunlight fall inside the cave. From atop the hill, the view is breathtaking. It has now turned into a picnic spot and to some extent, its religious significance has been lost.

Guardian of Sri Pada

Apart from the Batatota cave, Sthreepura, another cave is found just 200 metres away. This cave is believed to be the shelter of a relative of God Saman, who is said to be the guardian of Sri Pada.

The Adhivasi community is of the view that this cave belonged to their forefathers. Adhivasi Chief, Uruwarige Wanniyale Aththo regularly participates in the ceremonies that are organised at the Batatota cave temple. The Adhivasi community believes that they have a link to God Saman. A devala has been built and dedicated to God Saman in the Mahiyangana temple, and is close to the native land, Dambana of the Adhivasi community.

Legend has it that this cave temple was built by King Nissankamalla during the Polonnaruwa era and during this time the king had accidentally discovered the cave on his way to Sri Pada. The Buddha rested there with 500 of His disciples, on His return from the Sri Pada peak. Legend also has it that the Buddha rested in this cave after placing His footprint on the Sri Pada on the invitation of God Saman.

It is said that King Nissankamalla visited this cave temple during his religious expedition to Sri Pada. He built the temple which showcases the country’s rich culture. The most impressive architectural feature in this cave temple is the Makara Thorana that dates back to the Polonnaruwa period. A part of it has been renovated by villagers as it had been disfigured. Some of the paintings on the wall of the cave relate to the colonial era which has an emblem of the British throne above one of its doors in the cave.

Although the original architectural design of the cave temple is not visible at present, the ancient trees of the area surrounded by different kinds of vegetation can be seen. Flowers are in full bloom, displaying the ancient grandeur of the area.