Okanda jungle shrine springs back to life

By Mahil Wijesinghe

A pictorial publication of veteran photographer Nihal Fernando titled - The wild, the free, the beautiful, published more than two decades ago has fascinating images of Sri Lanka’s nature, history and wildlife. As an avid photographer, whenever I get time I turn its pages and enjoy the pictorial essay. Seeing the images is like reading a classic novel. In this book, there is a black and white photograph depicting a Hindu hermit meditating near a waterhole ‘Kema’ on a huge rock boulder near the Okanda jungle shrine.

Expecting to see the same location photographed decades ago, I ventured into this sylvan, holy Hindu shrine which is venerated by thousands of Hindu pilgrims - the Okanda jungle shrine in the deep corner of Panama in the Yala East National Park. I traced the spot where Nihal had photographed with the hermit but the place is now modified with new constructions.

It is not every day that you get a chance to spend a leisurely evening in a place steeped in history, art, architecture and lore.

My visit to the Okanda jungle shrine with a group of friends was such a rare coming together of the above factors.

Okanda is not more than 25 km from Panama in the Ampara district. Situated on the Kumana - Panama Kudumbigala jungle path, the Okanda shrine is believed to be the location where God Skanda first sailed into Sri Lanka in a golden boat. The boat, which was turned into a rock, still stands on the Okanda beach known to all as the ‘Ran Oru Gala’.

Shrine

En route from visiting Kumana (Yala East National Park) we spent the night at Okanda. The Okanda shrine consists of many buildings used by pilgrims. These buildings are deserted most of the time during the year except in July.

We spent a night at the edge of the Kumana bird sanctuary and the jungle shrine with the sounds of wild animals.

The following morning we climbed the Okanda rock boulder which lies amidst the forest canopy on one side and nestled in a tranquil corner of the east coast on the other.

On the summit of the rock there lies a small shrine believed to be dedicated to Valli Amma and in front of the shrine, a beautiful natural pond that lies with placid water adds beauty to the place.

After a while we reached the top where we took some time to rest and catch our breath. The view from the pinnacle of the rock was breathtakingly beautiful as the forest punctured with lagoons and coast bedecked the surrounding periphery and beyond.

Atop, the chirping of the birds, the rustling of trees and the slight wind intermingled to produce an array of pleasant sounds.

There are interesting legends associated with the Okanda shrine. According to one, God Kataragama (Skanda Kumara) came from India with his servants in two huge canoes and landed at the Okanda beach. The two canoes used by them turned into stone and is presently known as Ran Oru Gala which lie at the shore of Okanda.

Playful

He went to Kataragama through the Yala forest, met Valli Amma and had taken her back to Okanda, got married and spent a fun-filled period of time (Honeymoon) before going back.

Okanda means playful and happy. Pilgrims from all parts of Sri Lanka from varied faiths and cultures, seek blessings at the Okanda rock shrine, especially during its great festival in July.

Held in reverence by many without difference of religion, caste or creed, the temple’s origin is unknown although the signs of an ancient monastery are found nearby.

Archaeologists believe the temple being situated near the ancient Okanda harbour too would have increased its importance with many a seafaring men seeking its help before and after a journey.

Although the ancient jungle shrine was of much simpler structure and adornment, the present temple imitates a more Southern Indian Kovil structure due to its large number of Tamil Hindu devotees.

Earnest devotees from Kataragama flock by the thousands, hailing from all communities, especially Tamil Hindus undertake an annual Pada Yatra or foot pilgrimage via the Okanda temple and Yala National Park to Kataragama for the Esala festival in Kataragama. During the height of LTTE terrorism in the Northern and Eastern provinces in the past few decades, the Pada Yatra procession was abandoned and greatly affected.

Peace

Now thousands of Hindu pilgrims from the North and East throng to this jungle shrine after a month long Pada Yatra. Pilgrims trek without fear since peace prevails in the areas. Nearly 30,000 pilgrims from the Northern and Eastern Sri Lanka arrive in procession at Okanda to commence a week - long walk through the thick jungle of the Yala National Park to the temple of God Skanda in Kataragama. The devotees pray for Lord Skanda’s blessings and assistance, prior to commencing their journey through the thick jungles of Yala amidst the wild animals.

The ones who walk from afar are those who savour the traditional pilgrim’s life of sleeping in temples and under the open sky, accepting whatever alms that strangers may offer, and bearing up under scorching sun while walking barefoot on searing hot roads, clad only in simple pilgrim’s garb with a small bundle of offerings and belongings balanced upon their heads.

All along the way, villagers await their chance to offer alms (Dana) to the small bands of Swamis.For many pilgrims, the Pada Yatra is a chance to visit ancient shrines all the way to Kataragama in the company of devotees. Their long trek takes them to famous temples at Sittandy, Mamamgam, and Mandur in Batticaloa district.

When the Pada Yatra procession reaches the Ampara District, they follow the mesmerising East coast via Tirukkovil, Pottuvil, Panama and Okanda through the Yala National Park to reach Kataragama. Indeed it was a unique experience with all aspects as modern structures and ancient buildings blend in an attempt to protect the age-old heritage that encompassed the Okanda jungle shrine.