Singapore, a captivating city of contrasts

By Carol Aloysius

December 15, 2014. We have just arrived at Singapore. We are tired, travel stained and thirsty after having been cooped up inside a hired van in which we travelled overland from Malaysia spending over five hours cruising through rural Malaysia where we were told lay the ‘real Malaysia’.

After unloading our luggage at the Hotel where we had booked to stay for the next five days, we take a wash, change our clothes, and step out into the sultry late evening for a quick tour of the city by night, before returning for dinner.

None of us want to waste a moment of our limited time in this famed City of the Lion.

It is 10 days for Christmas. But Orchard Road, Singapore’s famous shopping belt whichtransforms itself to a retail wonderland all the way to the big hotels at the centre is already blazing with lights and elaborate decorations. Lighted fir trees (real and artificial) line the streets packed with people. Jet lights wink from every tree top while shop windows are draped with bigger than life cut outs of the jolly old elf in red suit, black boots, and flowing white beard who never fails to turn up at this time around with his bag of goodies for well behaved kids.

The air is thick with the aroma of exotic spices, of roasted cadjunuts, hot corn on the cob sold straight from the hot stoves perched precariously in food carts, and broiled chicken being barbequed on the streets.

The street vendors ply a brisk business especially during festival seasons, they tell us as we pause to buy some freshly roasted potato chips, while my grandchildren clamour for sugar sticks served in ice cream cones.

Early carol singers are already out in their full strength, dressed in uniforms. Many of them are high school students hired by shop owners. “The money I collect from singing carols during the Christmas season goes towards my school books”, says young Lee.

A group of veterans from the Salvation Army mesmerised us with their rendition of our favourite Christmas melodies on their highly polished brass instruments.

Cartoon

My grandchildren are entranced by moving figures of their favourite cartoon characters who mingle freely with the crowd: there’s Pop- Eye with his pipe lit up: here’s Mickey Mouse and Minnie Mouse dressed up in Santa suits beckoning children to come dance with them: there’s Mary Poppins with her magical broom stick, her skirt billowing in the strong wind poised to take off where ever the north wind blows: and here’s Peter Pan ready to rescue more lost children.

Animated angels perch on tree tops occasionally descending among the crowds to give us their blessings.

Manger

We move further pushed by the crowds to a secluded corner of a posh shopping complex where owners had reserved space for the centrepiece of Christmas - the manger scene, depicting Christ’s birth. Despite their religious differences, it is here that we find the most number of spectators, for most Singaporeans have a healthy respect for all religions. The lighted and animated figures of the baby Jesus, His mother and father and the farm animals surrounding them are illuminated with stars, the brightest of them all shining down below the humble scene.

Schoolchildren dressed in white hand out candles for us to light at the feet of the crib.

Highrise

The first thing that strikes you as you walk through the streets is its unique blend of colour. The colours of Christmas decorations mingle with exotic colours of rich silks worn by Indians, smart two piece suits worn by office girls, crimson and green blouses with matching trousers worn by Chinese men and women, batik cloth and jacket by Malays.

Yes. This city of contrasts offers you a glimpse of the culture of more ethnic groups than you will find anywhere else concentrated in one small man made city. Most of the people we see are either long time residents or just travellers like ourselves. Chinese, Indians, Tamils, Pakistani’s, Bangladeshi’s, Africans, who to all appearances seem to be getting on well despite their cultural, religious and ethnic divide.

Looking down at the city from the 60th floor of the Grand Hyatt which incidentally is the second tallest hotel, after a sumptuous dinner of assorted ethnic and Western food served by a mainly Chinese staff, we are intrigued by the fact that the city seems to be in constant motion.

Whether they are walking leisurely, or window shopping, or else walking briskly to their work places, we hardly spot anyone loitering or sitting to have a betel chew on the streets as they do back at home. What’s more they all seem so focussed, knowing exactly where they are going and why.

Expensive

Singapore is an expensive city. If you are a shopaholic, be prepared to go home with a large dent in your purse. What costs a few hundred rupees in Sri Lanka such as clothes, shoes, costume jewellery, cosmetics, will be treble or quadruple the price in Singapore, especially if you happen to patronise the big department stores where everything moves on elevators. Basically, we are informed by a sales assistant when we complained about the high prices, we are paying for the plush surroundings air conditioned, squeaky clean interior and efficient services in these ‘ all under one roof’ shopping malls.

Hidden under their layers, we find basement malls. These though cheaper have a tourist trap in the special discounts they offer you. The trick is to read the discount labels carefully, before rushing in and snapping up everything in the store.

If a shop window advertises ‘Five T shirts for under 10 dollars’ note that you get this bargain price only if you purchase five shirts no matter what size of colour is available. Don’t imagine for a moment that you can ‘Buy one and get one free’ as in our own supermarkets! Either you buy all 10 umbrellas or shopping bags or dresses they advertise (irrespective of size or whether you actually need them), for 30 Singapore dollars or pay 10 dollars for each if you insist on purchasing them individually or choosing them, according to colour and size.

English

While you are welcomed with big smiles, most people in this commercial hub we find to our dismay, are not fluent in English. Communication is thus often relegated to gestures.

Despite moving hands, heads and even feet frantically to inform him of the destination to where we were heading, the cab driver who took us sightseeing the next day simply grinned and shook his head in bewilderment, taking us on a circuitous route which meant forking out many more ringgits than we had expected, as our fare. We reflect nostalgically on our own tuk-tuk drivers and taxi drivers have a basic knowledge of English and can also speak all three languages if the need arose. Our elderly taxi driver explains: “People like myself only studied English for one period, once a week. I forgot the few words I learned when I dropped out of school at Grade 6. Our education system is to blame”.

Architecture

The interior of the Grand Hyatt Hotel takes our breath away as we gaze star struck by the tall glass mirror walls that opens to the skies. Its architecture work is a combination of the old and the new; the colonial and the modern with its carved woodwork and glass interiors.

This is typical of most buildings in Singapore.

Raffles, the city’s oldest guest house, is another example of the old and new. The present management however have done their best to stick to the original colonial architecture as far as possible using old fashioned lamps, high wooden ceilings and four poster beds...

Dining at this iconic hotel on Beach Road, is not cheap, but an experience meant to be treasured as we sipped cups of Lipton tea in dainty porcelain tea cups and ate English muffins and cucumber and cheese sandwiches. With gardens are still flanked by palms said to be saplings of the original trees planted 150 years ago, Raffles is steeped in historic and a visit is a must.

Travelling

Our next stop will be the Singapore Zoo and Sentosa Island - a birthday surprise for me and my grandson Herschel with who I share a birthday.