Godavaya Temple:

Serinity on the Silk Route

Story and pictures by Mahil Wijesinghe

It is a placid morning and my destination is Gotha PabbathaViharaya, better known as Godavaya temple, located on a boulder overlooking the Indian Ocean, in the ancient sea port of Godavaya, south of the estuary of Walawe Ganga in the Hambantota District. The view from here is breathtaking.

Godavaya is recommended for nature lovers looking to experience nature at its unique best. Entrance to the site is through a narrow road bracketed with small house, in what appears to be a fishing village. The road ends abruptly at a white sandy compound covered by huge banyan trees.

The cooling shade provided by the thick adventitious prop roots and arching branches give the approach to the temple proper a celestial feel, akin to a weary traveller being welcomed with a soothing embrace.

The ancient sea port of Godavaya lies about four kilometres from Ambalantota on the Colombo- Kataragama road. The little bay that marks the port is now a fishing ground. Towards the west, several boulders stand sentry against the turbulent sea, while the land behind is littered with numerous stone ruins, including stone pillars, a stupa, and the torso of a statue of the Buddha.

The recently restored stupa, lies on one rocky outcrop, giving a majestic aura to the site. Some stone ruins, including a moonstone, stone carved Buddha statue, broken into several parts and stone pillars have been restored by the Department of Archaeology.

The inscription on a timeworn plaque outside the temple states that all dues collected from the port were to be donated to the Godavaya temple. It further states that King Gamini Abaya donated custom levies of the port of Godavaya to the Viharaya.

King Gotabaya of Ruhuna

Historic records indicate that the Godavaya temple was built by King Gotabaya of Ruhuna, in the third Century BC and that Godavaya temple came to be called Gotha Pabbatha Raja MahaViharaya because of this association.

According to inscriptions in the temple, this ancient site of Godavaya had been part of the famous Silk Route, with ships anchoring here to take precious gem stones, spices and ivory in exchange for clothing and porcelain and other items.

The most striking feature of Godavaya is the estuary of the Walawe Ganga, which originates in the Horton Plains, Haputale and Kaltota-Balangoda escarpments, cascaded down the mountain slopes of Belihul Oya, Kaltota and meanders through the Udawalawe, before finally joining the sea at Godavaya in Ambalantota.

The Walawe estuary is located about 300 metres away from the site of Godavaya. Sand dunes seal the mouth of the estuary, but the strip of seashore that is flanked by the flowing Walawe Ganga is a fascinating spot, with its scenic deep blue sea and landscape.

The stretch of land sandwiched between the sea shore and the bank of the Walawe Ganga is called Diyagasgoda. The Brahmi inscription on the rock at the site, says the old port of Godavaya was also called Godapavita. Legends have it that the Buddha’s sacred hair relic had been enshrined at the Godavaya temple by a Brahmin called Bhalluka.

Of times gone by

In ancient times, the Walawe basin was considered a prosperous rice production region and the Walawe Ganga was said to have been navigable for transportation.

It is said that the paddy harvest was transported by boats along the Walawe Ganga, which also had a ferry service, transporting goods to be shipped abroad from the port of Godavaya. Standing on one of the rock boulder of the Godavaya, I looked towards the blue horizon, painting thousands of thoughts in my mind.

It was easy to imagine the bustling port of Godavaya of times gone by, when ancient ships with Arab merchants clad in white robes and turbans transacted with local traders. But now, only silence regains with the stone ruins as witness to history. Today’s visitors to Godavaya will notice a spacious cement abode built atop the rock boulder. During the World War II, a pious Dutch Buddhist monk had lived amidst this haven of rock boulders by the seashore of Godavaya, with a fascinating view of the deep blue sea.

The abode is now in ruins, but the serenity and beauty that brought the monk to the site still prevails.

The old people living the vicinity of Godavaya recall that their parents used to offer alms to the Dutch monk who was devout, and would always be immersed in meditation.

The sea is very turbulent around this area.

But walking along the shore can be a beautiful experience, more so because of the copious and different varities of sea shells to be found here. In 2003, The Department of Archaeology, in collaboration with researchers of Bonn University, in Germany, carried out extensive excavations at the Godavaya temple, and found several ancient coins, conforming that Godavaya was indeed an ancient port along the Silk Route. It points to significant trade between foreign countries, and also that the Kings who ruled the country at that time, had venerations for Buddhism, paying Customs duties to the ancient Gotha PabbathaViharaya or Godavaya temple.