Situlpahuwa:

Hallowed abode of 12,000 monks

Story and pictures by Mahil Wijesinghe

Recently, I literally took a trip down memory lane when I made treks to Situlpahuwa, a place my mother used to take me to when I was a kid. This time, though my mind was awash with memories of mom and me, I went as a photographer, eager to capture the serene beauty of this jungle shrine in the Deep South.

I set off early to capture the morning rays streaming through the widespread branches of the massive Palu and Weera trees along the gravel path that leads to Situlpahuwa. I was travelling from Tissamaharama across Yala Block-I, spotted a group of Malabar pie horn bills, through forest canopy.

Situlpahuwa is located a few kilometres inside the magnificent Ruhuna Wildlife Sanctuary (better known as Yala Wildlife Park) in close proximity to the Magul Maha Viharaya. The site is famous for its 2nd Century BC monastery. What appeals to visitors most is the panoramic view of the 1,300-square-kilometre wildlife sanctuary, which runs right down to the Indian Ocean.

The most noteworthy archaeological ruins are found in the large rock outcrop of Situlpahuwa. Kings Kavan Tissa and Dutugamunu of 2nd Century BC are attributed as being builders of these Stupas, rock cave shelters and monastery.

Historic records indicate that Situlpahuwa in ancient time was named ChittalapabbathaVihare, and had been the hallowed abode of 12,000 monks. Testimony to this is the numerous rock water pools and the nearly ten Stupas, all of which are now in ruins.

Maha Situlpahuwa

There are numerous Brahmi inscriptions in the Situlpahuwa area. Around sixty such inscriptions have been brought to light by the Archaeological Department through its excavation and restoration work.

Today, the monastery that was acclaimed as the greatest of its time still stands strong, although numerous renovations have been made to the original structure. More-recent additions are a pilgrim's rest, concrete roads and a car park.

Between February and July, thousands of pilgrims come to worship at the magnificent Stupa built on a rocky outcrop. Situlpahuwa gets its name from the huge rock on which the Stupa had been built, though the Stupa that's now in place is not as ancient as the rest of the monastery. It had been built over the original Stupa and later reconstructed. On the lower slopes, one can find the brick foundations of two ancient Stupas, built as companion Stupas to the original.

On clear days, visitors climbing to the top of the rocky outcrop, identified as Maha Situlpahuwa, can see the whole of the Ruhuna sanctuary, right down to the sea on one side and the central hills on the other. On the slope of this rocky outcrop lies the main shrine room with the statue of a reclining Buddha. Archaeologists believe the site of the shrine room was originally used by monks to meditate.

The two stone statues, one of which is headless, are believed to be that of Bodhisatwa Awalokitheswara. The statues, both well preserved, lie in front of the shrine room.

Scattered around the site are more than 60 inscriptions giving credence to Situlpahuwa being a reputed Buddhist monastery in the past. But more interesting to the adventurous visitor is a little path that leads out from near the shrine room, through the banks of a greenish water- filled pond, where crocodiles bask in the sun.

Less than a kilometre away through the jungle, the path leads to a small Stupa, built atop another rocky outcrop. This is the Kuda Situlpahuwa. For those whose interest extends beyond archaeology, this is the exciting adventure, for the path takes the visitor into the middle of the wilderness, where the jungle sounds prevails.

In this open space surrounded by thorny bushes, one can see many species of rare birds like the Brahminy kite, the Serpent eagle, Mountain hawk eagle and Malabar pie horn bill as well as the spotted deer. Interestingly, a lone wild elephant also used to visit the monastery daily, to get food from the temple.

Quaint offerings

The most striking feature of Situlpahuwa lies a few yards up. This is an umbrella-shaped rock leaning against another rock and forming a passage of sorts. Beneath the first rock are broken branches and leaves, quaint offerings from the pilgrims to the jungle deities seeking their protection when venturing far into the jungle.

Access to the second rocky outcrop is a near-vertical climb, supported by a rickety iron handrail and tiny footholds carved into the rock. The effort is worth it, just for the panoramic view that greets you when you reach the top.

The second Stupa is called Kuda Situlpahuwa. Archaeologists claim this was once linked to the main monastery by a paved path fringed with flowering bushes. On both sides of the path are caves with rooms in which the monks had meditated in the past. Of course the rooms are now ruins.

The authorities of the temple advise visitors who venture to the Kuda Situlpahuwa rock, to return to the main monastery before sunset. This is an advice well worth heeding.