New Year in Kataragama

by P. Krishnaswamy

It was a bright, sunny day in Kataragama and pilgrims, in a rather elated state, were everywhere - in and around the Maha Devalaya, in smaller temples of other deities in the vicinity, including the temples of Lord Skanda’s divine consorts Valliamma and Theivanai Amma; at the Muslim ‘Dharga’ at flower and fruit stalls, at the Kirivehera and at the Menik Ganga, the sacred river that flows by the side of this city.

Ruhunu Maha Kataragama Devalaya

Kavadi Dance

The evening was more picturesque with colourful illuminations and decorations in and around the temples. Thousands of clay oil lamps with their flickering lights bracketing the road to the Kiri Vihara.

Devotees of the God Kataragama, not only Buddhists and Hindus but also those belonging to other faiths flocked to the sacred city in their thousands on Thursday, a day ahead of the New Year, to invoke the blessings of God Skanda for prosperity and well-being. Politicians, prominent businessmen, senior government officials and also foreign tourists were among them.

The historical story of Kataragama is interestingly related to King Dutugemunu. According to records, King Dutugemunu reigned from 161 to 137 AD. The Kataragama Devala was constructed during that period. The poet ‘Kandamala kavya’ has ingeniously described the affiliation between the reign of King Dutugemuna and God Kataragama in a creative, poetic form.

According to legend, the Devalaya, which was located primarily on top of a mountain was re-established in its current location by King Dutugemunu.

Location

The story unfolds that the King shot an arrow from the top of this mountain and decided on the location for this sacred temple, based on where the arrow landed. According to Sinhala legend, the King made a vow to God Kataragama offering a temple in return for the His blessings to gain victory in the war against the then reigning King Elara.

It is believed he piously offered the ‘Kataragama Deva Maligaya’ to God Kataragama consequent to his victory.

The Kataragama Devalaya bears an iconic significance in the history of Sri Lanka in that it is respected the world over as a multi-religious place of pilgrimage.

The multi-religious places of workship here include the Ruhunu Kataragama Maha Devalaya, Kirivehera, Bodhiya and other temples and a Muslim mosque.

The multi-religious nature of the sacred city is also reflected in the fact that although all the auspicious times are decided on by the ‘Kapu Mahaththayas’ in the temples, the beginning of the 15-day Esala festival is symbolically marked with a flag-hoisting at the mosque, that houses the tombs of two Muslim saints intimately associated with Islamic lore.

During the spectacular festival of colour, light and sound and caparisoned elephants, held in mid August, the streets of Kataragama are replete with parades, dances and rituals including fire-walking, cheek and tongue piercing, hanging from iron hooks and Kavadi dancing (dancing with an arched pole decorated with peacock feathers on the shoulders).

The centuries-old ‘Pada yathras’ or foot pilgrimage from all parts of the country through wild elephants and wild beasts infested jungle terrain lasting weeks or months also continue during the festive season, although the jungle terrain at present is relatively safer.

Swamy Pumanand Giri	Anuradha Ekanayake	P.M.M. Rafeek

The Kataragama Museum in the vicinity also sheds some light on the history of the shrine and events connected to it. The museum has rare miniature statues and documents.

Valliamma

Administrative Secretary and Secretary to the Basnayake Nilame of the Maha Kataragama Devalaya Anuradha Ekanayake told the Sunday Observer they had anticipated a large number of pilgrims during the New Year season and all arrangements were made to provide facilities to devotees to worship God Kataragama, and also provide them with sanitary and health care and other security arrangements in consultation with the police and government authorities.

There are over one million pilgrims daily during the Esala festival season and the Maha Devala also receives donations and contributions from pilgrims, he said.

Speaking about the legend of the Maha Devala and the Theivanai Amman temple, the North Indian Swamy in-charge of the Theivanai Amman temple, Swami Purmanand Giri, said Lord Muruga also known as Skanda and by several other names came to Sri Lanka thousands of years ago to kill the demon King Asura and after achieving his mission, fell in love with Valliamma, who belonged to the local aborigine Veddah community.

He stayed back without returning to his divine consort Devasena also known as Theivanai Amman, in India.

Theivanai Amman sent a wandering Sanyasin (monk with divine powers ) to Sri Lanka to bring back God Skanda. The Sanyasin reached Kataragama and unable to find God Skanda, started a ‘Tapasya’ ( meditation) and meditated for 12 years and finally found Lord Skanda and Valliamma.

Shortcomings

At that point of time, Goddess Theivanai Amma also came to Sri Lanka and was angered when God Skanda refused to go back to India with her. That is why her temple is on the left side of the Maha Devalaya while the Valliamman temple is opposite, with the God directly facing her, Swamy Giri said.

He highlighted the shortcomings on performing poojas and other rituals at the Maha Devalaya. It is a Hindu temple and hence Hindu priests should be the main priests performing the poojas and other rituals. But, unfortunately, this is not so, he said.

During festival time, the Theivanai Amman Temple administration provides food to 10,000 - 20,000 pilgrims, which includes breakfast, lunch and dinner, however, the food goes waste, when people who request for meals in advance do not turn up. The temple authorities do not like any food going waste and devotees should turn up when they request food in advance, he said. Anybody will be provided meals free, if they request in advance, he said.

A Norwegian tourist and a five-member Norwegian team, led by Lars A Rinde, Managing Partner of a chartering firm said, “Despite the fact that Norway has been recognised by the UN as the best country to live in and we love Sri Lanka, not only because of the excellent climate but also for other reasons such as attitude and hospitality of the people.

“They are united and live in harmony, which we appreciate. Religious culture and the heritage blend at this shrine, although we do not know much about the culture and heritage of Hinduism or Buddhism,” Lars Rinde said. He found the peacocks, elephants and other wild life fascinating.

The manager of the mosque in Kataragama, P.M.M. Rafeek, said on the first day of the 15-day Esala festival, religious leaders and government officials visit the mosque to hoist flags to mark the beginning of the festival. Religious activities in the mosque do not bar any other religious community. Priests and devotees of other faiths, senior government officials and political leaders also visit the mosque. All religious activities and events are planned and performed collectively.

A saint known as Palkudi Bawa is believed to have come here 428 years ago and his tomb is in the shrine, Rafeek said.

Portions on the history of Kataragama and the religious rituals are based on the book ‘Pimbara Kataragama’ published by the Kataragama Devalaya administration.