Medirigiriya Vatadage:

Elegance in stone

Story and pictures by Mahil Wijesinghe

Having had our fill of Somawathiya, we moved on to our next destination, the magnificent architectural marvel known as the Medirigiriya Vatadage, on the outskirt of Polonnaruwa. A majestic creation this is one of the few remaining vatadages found in Sri Lanka.

Access to the Medirigiriya Vatadage is through a secondary road via Hingurakgoda, or rather we chose the secondary road to travel the 40 km distance from Polonnaruwa. The recent rains had painted the landscape green, filling the canals and tanks and making the paddy fields lush. Taking in the acres of green fields flanking the road I couldn't help but wonder about the worrier Kings and what plans they would have devised in the bygone era to cultivate these vast stretch of fields to feed the people and make the country self-sufficient in its staple food, rice.

It was early evening when we reached the Medirigiriya archaeological site, and as if issuing a special welcome to us, the setting sun cast a smooth glow on the rocky outcrop, giving us a spectacular, wow worthy sight. The best time to visit the Medirigiriya Vatadage is in the morning or evening. It is best to avoid the harsh mid-day sun.

Access to Medirigiriya Vatadage, located atop a rocky boulder, is via a few short steps carved into a circular structure. The resting area is marked by tall rectangular columns. Another short climb brings you to the Vatadage, where the remains of guard stones on either side of the staircase still stand sentinel.

There are three concentric rows of pillars (a total of 68) surrounding the four large rock cut statues of the Buddha in a seated position. A granite staircase leads to the platform, which is a common feature of this type of structure.

Provide protection

Traditionally, the circular shape stone structure called the Vatadage was constructed around small Stupas that enshrined the sacred Relics of the Buddha, to provide protection and shelter. An earlier structure was believed to have existed here during the pre-Christian era. However, the Vatadage that prevails today was built in the 7th Century by King Agbo IV and is considered one of the finest examples of this form of architecture. Later, many rulers are said to have contributed to the Vatadage and reconstructed the premises from, time to time.

However, the Medirigiriya Vatadage faced the same fate as the other sites elsewhere in Polonnaruwa when the rulers abandoned the kingdom due to invasions and shift of ruling seats. The Polonnaruwa Kingdom was deserted due to Chola invasion and the Vatadage was discovered late in the 19th Century.

Around the Stupa are three circles of stone pillars upon which the roof of the Vatadage was built. The inner-most circle consists of 16 pillars, while the middle and outer circles contain 20 and 32 pillars each. A circular wall made of bricks runs between the middle and outer circles, while a decorated stone wall is to be found around the outermost circle. There are elaborate carvings on top of each pillar. From atop the circular platform, where the Vatadage stands, the view is dotted with the ruins of the structures, rocky outcrops and lush greenery.

Around the Vatadage are remnants of various structures each hinting at great significance and giving glimpses of a vast monastic complex. Ruins of a 3rd Century AD image house stands on the right side of the Vatadage, with its collected of rock carved standing and seated Buddhas.

Ancient brick mouldings found at the base of the present Stupa has led some scholars to believe that this could have been a place of worship as early as the 1st Century AD.

Beheth Oruwa

In close proximity to the Vatadage are the ruins of what is believed to be an ancient hospital. Found here are 'Beheth Oruwa' (medical boat) and many other medical paraphernalia all carved in rock. The medicinal boat, usually filled with herbal medicines and used by ailing Bhikkus, was a common feature of ancient Sri Lankan hospitals and can be found at monastic complexes in ruined cities.

A few yards away from Vatadage there are however, indications of attempts being made to destroy the rocky slabs, either by vandals or treasure hunters. It is pity, for though the law is there to bring these culprits to book, little has been one to curb the nefarious activities.

During my visit at the Vatadage I learned that some stone carved inscriptions and guard stones belonging to the Vatadage had been taken away by the villagers and were being used as grinding stones and to wash clothes, unaware of the importance of the ancient monuments.

Facing the Vatadage is another rocky boulder, on the summit of which lies the remains of a small Stupa. Stone steps carved on to the rock lead to the summit, which offers a spectacular view of a huge pond said to have been used by monastic monks in the past.

In the evening sun, the Vatadage, framed by the rustic pillar, looks somewhat different, both striking and soft and offers a picturesque view that appears to reflect both its rich history and natural beauty.