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| Sunday, 21 November 2004 |
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by Umangi de Mel Loafers, Sandals, Sneakers and Stilettos... Shoes have become an item that top the lengthy shopping lists. Lot of sequins, beads and embroidery speak a lot for the modern look of shoes making 'em a top priority irrespective of the age. "When choosing a pair of shoes, comfort and durability is a primary factor. We look at the heel and the sole of a shoe and make sure that all our heels and soles are Italian stuff," says Niloufer Anverally, Managing Director, Leather Collection. According to her, their sole aim is to offer the customer comfort and durability. Quality always comes along with price, she says, hinting that good things don't come cheap. Niloufer says, 'style' contributes a lot towards the sale of shoes, "People are more interested in vibrant colours, sequins, embroidery and beaded shoes. We follow international fashion and we get the latest shoes down." Talking about taking care of shoes, Niloufer says that shoes need to be worn and not be locked away in a cupboard. If locked up, shoes especially with pure leather soles get musty and form fungus, "It's important to air it out," she adds. While the topic still remains 'shoes', looking at 'em in a fashionable point of view, Niloufer says that 'mismatch' these days, is totally acceptable. 'Fashion', according to her is all about accessorising. "Brightly coloured bags and bright colour shoes can go together. Nobody tries to match what they are wearing. Funky bags, bright colour pants and outlandish shoes. It's not simple elegance anymore." Since it's a 'mix 'n match' concept, shoes can be in many shapes and colours and can be worn by anybody to suit their taste. It's all about glitz, glamour and shoes. Most people these days have a shoe-faddish. What's so attractive about shoes anyway? "I guess that your whole body rests on them and if you're a person who's into fashion and trends, shoes can be a top priority," Niloufer says and adds that it's actually a combination of style and comfort. Apparently a lot of people go for high heels. "If you go out dancing, you'd prefer style and huge high heels. Nevertheless, it's a bit tricky buying high heels. It's always safe to buy the Italian heels. "At Leather Collection, we cater to a totally wide segment, from the crazy party-goer who wants the latest fad to a more laid back kind of person who'd prefer casual wear like flat slippers, which is quite popular in Sri Lanka," comments Niloufer. Categorising the styles, she says that most tall people go for flats and the shorter ones opt for higher heels, "Your shoes depend on the styles of your portray," she adds. Talking about the various brands available, Niloufer says it's better to go for branded stuff that'll last, than having to buy a pair every month. "We've recently introduced a brand called, 'Lewre' which is a trendy fashionable shoe. 'Balenciaga' is a very up market brand. Actually it's for a small category who want to spend on a brand," she reveals and adds that they also have a good range for the working girl. Discussing durability, Niloufer says it's the 'PU' sole that lasts long. "Its heel and the sole are being cut out of one sheet. It's very comfortable and your shoes will never have a repair problem. Most of the shoes have their heels covered but the PU sole isn't covered which is why you can't scrape it off and thus the durability's very high," wrapping things up for the time being, Niloufer says that shoes reflect a lot on your personality.
A Short History Of Shoes For many generations, deep in the hearts of short men, has dwelt a wistful yearning and a burning desire to appear tall. This wish is a natural one, springing from an acute desire to escape the many handicaps, real and imaginary, which confront short men in their dealings with those taller than themselves. The feeling of inferiority that accompanies a short stature is hard to suppress. It has always been embarrassing and difficult for a short man to make a favourable impression on a woman taller than himself, and no less disconcerting to be in the company of tall men, who literally look down upon a little man. The surest way for the short man to appear taller is to stand on something, and the most effective method is a height-increasing shoe. In days of old, short men did not hesitate to strut about in high heel shoes to bolster their egos, but today no man would essay that. Nor is it necessary for height-increasing devices are secretly built into men's shoes now and among the foremost exponents of this type of shoe is a New Yorker, Joseph Burger. But Joseph Burger is not only a manufacturer of shoes, he is also an author (pen name Paul O'Neil, "Why Be Short") and a collector of rare shoes. A highly prized pair of shoes in this collection is a pair of fifteenth century 'Chopines.' They are really a most fascinating pair of shoes which were worn by Italian nobility and are said to have been built purposely to permit the wearer to tower over the masses. They are very ornate, made of white pierced leather of a sandle-like quality and have two heels. Shoes of this type were also worn by lesser aristocrats in Italy about this time, especially during bad weather, but these shoes do not compare in quality and elegance with the 'Chopinea' in Joseph Burger's collection, which he obtained directly from the descendants of a famous Italian family. Not so long ago, in the time of Napoleon Bonaparte and the Duke of Wellington, the men themselves had a hand in setting the style. The impetus for this venture of two such militant individuals into the field of design was due to the great importance of supplying the active armies of the day with proper shoes. Thus, both Napoleon and the Duke attended to the needs of their soldiers and designed footwear of comfort and convenience for them. These shoes, quite appropriately known as "Napoleons" and "Wellingtons," enjoyed a widespread but temporary popularity. At about the same time, Field-Marshal Von Blucher of the Prussian army was also faced with the problem of designing more practical shoes for his soldiers, who complained of the difficulties experienced in pulling their boots on and off. The result was the 'Blucher,' a half boot with two flaps just below the ankle, for loosening the boot and making it easy to slip on and off quickly. When on the foot, the boot was fastened and made snug by tying the laces, which were drawn through a couple of ey elets in each flap. This shoe has enjoyed a much happier fate than the "Napoleons" and 'Wellingtons' which have passed into oblivion, for today, many men are wearing a type of shoe still known as a "Blucher" which features the same flaps. The modern version, with its simple style of lacing, retains the same attraction of comfort and convenience. Julius Caesar, that noble Roman, startled the populace of Rome by sporting a pair of fabulous shoes, the soles of which were almost pure spun gold! There is also ample evidence to uphold the belief that early day Romans favoured shoes with soles of wood. Shoes of such construction were doubtless practical for keeping the feet dry during inclement weather and also gave one a helpful boost at times. Another historic personality who had a decided influence in the design and adoption of a shoe was England's King Henry VIII. The shoes he designed were called 'Dunderbludgeons' and were as cumbersome and unattractive as the name implies. Taking into account the King's gouty feet, they were an unlovely creation indeed, shovel-front in design and built very much like a pancake. The King's courtiers, and gradually most of the populace, copied the awkward shoe, even increasing the width of the shoe across the vamp so that some styles measured a good twelve inches in width. Needless to say, this shoe was hardly conducive to graceful walking and people were constantly treading on one another's toes, which led to fist fights and even duels! Such is the influence of Kings! A royal decree was finally handed down forbidding the common people from wearing this duck-bill footwear and specifying that footwear widths be decreased to more practical dimensions. In the central part of Europe, in the seventeenth century, the women wore stout boots resembling those worn by the lusty buccaneers of that period, who prowled the seas bent on plunder. These Bohemian boots have an unusual shape and are made with a generous leather apron, which fits closely around the knee and extends down to the shoe proper, looking for a11 the world like a trouser leg. The boot has but four eyelets through which a strip of rawhide is pulled to fasten it. Equally as interesting is a pair of men's shoes of the same period, also made in Bohemia. This pair features stub toes, a low heel and has ankle protectors that look just like the fins of a fish. The sovereign who is generally credited with properly launching the high heel shoe and making an enduring fashion of it was Louis XIV, whose exalted position in life demanded that he add some dignity to his five foot four inches. The heel he invented is still known as the Baby Louis heel and prevails today in women's shoes. Though discarded by men, a similar heel is still retained on the American cowboy's boot. It is a direct steal from the Mexican cowboy's boot, which in turn has been taken from the four inch heel boots worn by the Spanish gallants in the eighteenth century. And these were an outgrowth of the Louis XIV influence. American shoes are well represented in Joseph Burger's varied collection and among them is a pair of early American baby shoes. Huge tacks, like those used by upholsterers, are hammered into the soles and give the shoes a unique and decorative appeal. There is a pair of white, high heel shoes which were quite the thing in the roaring '20's. "Needletoes" they were called and only a "needle-toe" could have wriggled into the toes of those shoes, which were so pointed as to scarcely, admit even a slim pencil. But they were "fashionable" and grandmother wore them along with her sisters, who suffered heroically, as women have always been wont to do, for the sake of "fashion."
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