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| Sunday, 27 February 2005 |
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Features |  |
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Awaiting the rising sun
The sun comes up, goes down again and rises casting the shadow of Sri Pada on clouds of mist. Ira Sevaya according to folklore, is how the sun worships Sri Pada, the footprint of the Buddha set upon the peak of mount Samanala. It is a sight to behold, a sight etched in memory. But, the path towards it is not easy, even today. by Vimukthi Fernando
The villagers walking to their cultivation plots or travelling to the town for their daily tasks pass by quietly. You arrive at a clearing with a cluster of shops and many houses. Villagers are busy at new constructions. A few vehicles are parked on the side. This is Erathna, 12 kilometres off Kuruwita junction on the main Colombo - Ratnapura road, where the customary pilgrim from the far South began his or her ascent of Sri Pada. We are determined to trace their steps. The boards announce that we are entering a 'protected area.' They provide guidelines on human behaviour in a protected area and deter the use of polythene. The path stretches through backyards to a greener area.
We wash our faces, hands and feet every now and then in the streamlets bespeckling the path. We marvel in the uniqueness of Sri Pada's biodiversity. A formation of tropical lowland, sub montane and montane rain forest and natural grasslands, the forest surrounding Sri Pada is the catchment area and the source of four major rivers in Sri Lanka, Mahaweli, Kelani, Kalu and Walave. The mountain range is also home to a host of fauna and flora, including 24 species of endemic birds (14 of which are listed as endangered by the IUCN, in its Red Data List) and other animals such as leopards, elephants, some rare amphibians, insects and fish. Declared a sanctuary on October 10, 1940 the Peak Wilderness area stretches over 22,380 hectares. All of a sudden an alarm is raised. The monkeys jump up. Running hastily, away from their roadside tete-a-tete and take refuge in far away tree tops. We start wondering what had happened. Soon, the answer comes loud and clear. A radio blaring Hindi songs. We see a group of youth passing by, about 15 of them shouting and booing at each other.
The early pilgrims spent many days resting by the numerous streams and waterfalls and enjoying the lustre of the forest. So does the conventional pilgrim of the day. The nadaya consisting extended families and neighbours are lead by an older person, often a grandmother or grandfather. Though chanting of the Thunsaranaya is no more practised, the refrain "karunawai, karunawai" is heard from every group of pilgrims. Regarded the most picturesque path to Sri Pada, the surrounding environs is preserved due to it being less travelled. However, the situation is fast changing. More and more 'joy-ride' visitors are attracted to the Kuruwita-Erathna path to Sri Pada, due to a television station's relaying of its beauty in a recent program. We stop for rest near a rock pool. The sky is clear and the birds chirp on tree tops. Polythene, blown by the wind hangs on shrubs. A thunderous drum beat, dancing and shouting while another group of youth come to enjoy themselves at the rock pool with 'spirits' to keep them warm during the journey. We wonder for how long the Kuruwita-Erathna road will hold its beauty. At dusk, we reach Seetha Gangula. Mounds of foul smelling garbage cover its banks. We wonder how pilgrims bathe in its waters. The pathway is strewn with polythene and leftover debris of the visitors. While some groups 'party' with dancing and music, others strive to catch a wink of sleep at the Seetha Gangula pilgrims rest. A hot cup of tea helps ward off tiredness. It is time to move on. We stroll along the forest path. As darkness envelops us, we are thankful for the illuminated path, with the thick forest on either side. As the forest comes alive, we hear the calls of the frogs and crickets. A night owl hoots from the distance and your senses get attuned to strange smells. We arrive at the Gettam Pana. There are Pilgrims galore. Some Sleeping at the pilgrims rests, others at tea kiosks and in the open spaces, huddled together, wrapped in cotton bedding or polythene sheets. Taking a well earned rest in their quest towards Uda Maluwa, to watch the sunrise. Passing them, we reach a flight of steps. This is the beginning of Mahagiridambe, the great climb. Easy and broad at the beginning, it becomes increasingly narrow and difficult, as we plod along its flights of steps with the biting wind chilling our bones at times. Sweets and water taking away our fatigue, we are thankful for the iron railings that help us on the road. We join the crowd of pilgrims ascending the path. A minute to reflect on the path we traversed. Illuminated by electric lights, it stretches down the mountain snakelike. It is nearly dawn. And as the sun shoots its first rays on earth, we enjoy the sight from the top of the mountain. The sky brightens in reddish hues. The moment has dawned. The rising of the sun. |
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You await the dawn. Huddled on the steps, wrapped in whatever warm
clothing you have, in freezing temperatures, with a biting wind chilling
your bones. The sky turns grey and changes its hues from yellow green to
orange.
The road climbs through rubber plantations on either side. Narrow and
dotted with potholes, it is difficult for the vehicle to negotiate the
numerous bends. It is cool and shady with a cluster of houses, a boutique
or a cattle shed coming into view from time to time.
Blue Mormons, majestic in their black and white adornment flitter past
us, one by one. If you are lucky, you might see one of the largest jewels
that enliven the Sri Lankan environment. We rest, relishing the quietness.
Fan tailed drongos accompanied by Sri Lanka White Eye keep us entertained.
As our senses pickup a sharp smell of Varaka (ripe jak-fruit), a monkey
seated on a branch of a tree enjoying a meal of Varaka mocks at us.
The Kuruwita-Erathna road is traversed less often by the average Sri
Pada visitor. The traditional pilgrim amble its 16 - kilometre stretch
covered mostly in forest, with much devotion. Regarded the most difficult
stretch leading to the peak, the path houses many an ambalama (pilgrims
rest) often situated beside waterways, offering much needed respite to the
traveller.
