Fashioning the Malay way

By Nilma Dole

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From the delicious ‘piitu’ to ‘wattalapan’ to even names of places like ‘Hambantota’, the Malays have gifted Sri Lanka much of their culture.

The foremost Malay fashion designer Marlene Dole says that there is a demand for Malay fashion nowadays especially from the younger generation who want to blend their own culture into the modern trends. She comments “For women, the Malay costumes are the ‘baju kurum’ of which the blouse is longer and the ‘gnona kabaya’ which is shorter and figure-hugging”.

In this aspect, the dresses can be tailor-made to suit the requirements of a woman’s body which is flexible and dazzling.

Marlene also highlights that different creative patterns can be incorporated into Malay designs making them glamorous “Various designs with embroidered tops and different lace patterns as well as pleats and drapes on the skirts and saris of Sri Lankan woman also have been inspired by the Malay costumes”, she adds. As with the sash or belt that is worn by modern-day men and women has been inspired by the ‘sunkun’ cover worn over the trousers by the Malay men.

Ramzi Rahman, a veteran Malay fashion guru comments “Many opt for Malaysian style weddings incorporating Malay fashions and customs because it is unique and brings out the Malay culture”. However, the trend is yet to catch up fully in Sri Lanka because at the moment, only Sri Lankan Malays go for such fashion designs. Traditionally, Malay weddings have been colourful and bright with different head gear being worn by the bride and groom, offering a festive look.

Marlene has held many Malay fashion shows for nearly 20 years and is right now working on a sewing book on Malay fashion designs. However, she points out that it is necessary to train potential young designers on the Malaysian aspects for the culture to live on.

“Even though there is an interest within the Malay community, more Muslims from other communities also are interested in Malay costumes which is beneficial to uplift the Malay culture”

More often than not, youngsters these days like to mix and match and infuse latest fashions with Malay designs. “For example, the Malay lace coupled with inside silk materials are popular amongst the Malay youth to give their dresses a twist,”she comments.

As with pleated and draped skirts, the front slits which is predominantly Malaysian is also a fashion craze. Mature women can also choose Malay costumes-graceful designs and fashions to compliment their figure.