Rooted in traditions, but still unexplored

'Eight sisters' of North East India

by Upali RUPASINGHE in Kolkata

The people of the India's North East have fashioned their crafts by drawing deeply from the incredible wealth of prehistoric memories, legends, mythology, and history for centuries. Vibrant colours, amazing texture and an intensity of rich imagery are the hallmarks of the North East comprising eight states: Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim, and Tripura.

Rooted in traditions that are centuries old even the humblest crafts of ordinary life are imbued with witching artistry.

These crafts men learning adept their traditional crafts to modern needs and the urban and foreign markets, while continuing to keep alive their intrinsic artistic heritage. And it is this fabulous range of handlooms, pottery, toys, masks, jewellery, bamboo craft, wood craft, and images that has dazzled memento - hunting local and foreign visitors to the North East popularly known as the "Eight Sisters" of the paradise unexplored.

Seeking inspiration from the ancient forelands and waters, the high mountain peaks below around the Himalayas and deep valleys and centuries old religious rituals and icons, they are enduring in the simplicity, beauty and utilitarian diversity. Empowered by the wealth of natural materials from Mother Nature, the people of the North East belong to several tribal sects and groups have created a range of handicraft and shopping experience that are a treat for the sense of the vacationer.

The craftsmen have embellished even ordinary, everyday items with a delightful flair, with fascinating range of materials called from the gushing rivers, the fertile earth and the fantastic flora, fauna and a vain life that abounds here.

I have been in India for over 16 years and one of the most common sounds I have heard in villages when in North East was the clack-clack of the loom. In most of the houses women bends over their weaving and marvel at the intensity and the dexterity of their hands.

The emerging colours and patterns are breathtaking in their simplicity and vibrancy. Unique to the North East region is one of the earliest known forms of weaving. An intrinsic ritual of everyday tribal life, weaving reflects some of the most important features of each tribe, showcased in its colour palette, patternisation and its themes.

The women folk, who do all the weaving for the household, produce shawls, blankets and the sarong - like garments. In earlier times, most of the work was done for the needs of the family, but now some of this exquisite work its finding its way to urban market stores in State capitals.

Naga shawls, more than a protection against the chill, are one of the most dynamic, representations of the weaving skills of the North East. Each tribe has its own special patterns and motifs and even certain ceremonies are indicated in the weaving of these beautiful wraps. The weave and patternisation of a shawl identifies different tribes. It also indicates the social status of a man or a woman.

Every woman in Manipur, there is a saying, is born a weaver, It could account for the delightful wealth of beautiful handloom objects the State is renowned for.

The women of the missing tribe of Majuli located in Assam, reinvent their traditional diamond patterns in countless weaves. Their favourite colours are orange, yellow, green, black, and red. Their famous "mirizim' shawls and blankets make great wall hangings or even bed spreads.

Assam is reputed for its silk and the most prominent variety is "muga", the golden silk exclusive only to this State.

Mizoram is renowned for its beautiful "puan" cloth and amongst the delightful wanders of Aizawl's Burra Bazaar one will discover this and many other traditional Mizo designs and textiles with intricate weaves and vibrant colours. The weaving skills of Arunachal's Apartami women too are legendry and the wonderful "jikhe" pattern, woven jackets and intricately patterned "jilang" shawls, are proof of that reputation they enjoy.

Tripura's royalty contributed largely to the development of craft with their patronage. Craftsmen had an important place to develop their mastery of their traditional skills.

Renowned for its colourful variety and texture is the small garment known as "riha" or "risha" which is woven on the simple local looms, made of bamboo.