Rakwana in old British colonial days

by Gamini G. Punchihewa

In those halcyon days of the British Raj when British planters of Rakwana held sway in their stately plantation mansions they inevitably had their stables there. Those were the grand old days of horse carriages. What remains of those stables can still be seen at Rakwana.

The roadway was then motorable only up to the picturesque Bulutota pass via Rakwana-Pelmadulla, Madampe junction and finally to Ratnapura-Colombo bound.

The majestic Rakwana massif part of the Sinharaja tropical rain forest rises out of this forest cover.

The horse carriage terminus was at Rakwana where stables were built. Those grand stables to house horses and the carriages were built in splendid architectural style. Quite pleasing and imposing.

These stables were built of brick and mortar. Its roof was covered with calicut tiles. The architecture being of Kandyan style, the roof carries with it on its top a vaulted roof with calicut tiles. Wooden finials adorned the roofs and its sides. It also had a blend of the British architectural touch as well adorning the corners of the titled roof.

The Rakwana stables had four compartments to shelter the horses and carriages. The Calicut tiles are dated as 1862. Hence these old stables could be over 100 years old.

Today those stables house the Rakwana police station. Nevertheless, its aesthetic and antique appearance is evident.

One alteration has been that the four compartments have been converted into four apartments by separate walls to accommodate the police cells, public entrance, armoury, stores and OIC's office. Its window panels are also trellises.

On a small hillock the little Baptist Church built by the British planters in the Rakwana town in 1887

The Police station Rakwana housed in the old stables coming down from British and Maduwanwela Dissawa's times

The renovated Bulutota Circuit Bungalow.

It is perched on a hillock having a commanding view of the fine mountain scape filled with hills and cascading water falls. Galdola Ella overlooks the Rakwana town.

"Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller" published by 'Studio Times' - Nihal Fernando gives a vivid but fascinating account of this wondrous Bulutota Pass.

"The Bulutota Pass, climbing upward in 10 hairpin bends from Rakwana (11 mls. buses) presents a magical change of view: before the summit, mainly to the North, the Tanjantenna Plateau backed by the Sleeping Warrior ranges and queened over by Adam's Peak; once through the summit cutting, and the view looks southward over the jungle plains towards Kataragama, Hambantota and the silver-flashing sea. The circuit bungalow commands much of both views.

Immediately above the bungalow and some 1,500 ft. above it lie the Handapana Ella Plains (surrounded by the virgin Sinharaja rainforest) perhaps the most sequestered portion of the whole island and accessible only by a strenuous, pathless scramble."

Rakwana is quiet accessible easily along the main Colombo-Ratnapura-Pelmadulla-Embilipitiya-Nonagama junction. It is 94 miles from Colombo. The turn off is via Madampe junction to Rakwana/Deniyaya. From Embilipitiya where we have been staying for over forty years, the distance is about thirty miles.

The other older colonial buildings in the same premises where the old stables are located, are the circuit bungalow of the famed Maduwanwela Dissawa (popularly then Dissawa was called Kalu Kumaraya - Black Prince). A romantic story revolves around an amusing and heroic incident that occurred between him and two German princes. On seeing the Dissawa the arrogant German princes ordered the coach driver with the insolent words, "Don't allow that black bastard to get into the coach, as we are two princes from Germany." In frothing anger he blurted out, "You may be princes, but I am the Black Prince of Ceylon and immediately he ordered the coachman to throw them out of the coach when, they had to eat the humble pie and go by bullockcart to Ratnapura. Over this dauntless act of the Dissawa, he came to be known as Black Prince or Kalu Kumaraya. The Dissawa is still held in legend as a fearless warrior who never bowed down to the white sahibs.

When the Dissawa came to Rakwana he occupied the circuit bungalow for his official work. This old fabric of a circuit bungalow that Dissawa had occupied has been much altered. Its roof tiled with calicut tiles is gone.

Instead it is replaced with asbestos sheets. Some parts of the original building complex, both exteriors remain unchanged.

The building on its left flank juts into a small verandah with glass panes with shutters. The doorway is on a side with a glass pane door. The kitchen is adjoining the front verandah.

The part of the building which is still of interest is the floor which is studded with myriad pieces of porcelain. the floral decoration are in the form of a huge lotus flower in full bloom. There are empty grooves which were embedded with gold sovereigns and gems. Engraved on the studded floor is 15.08.1897,

This Maduwanwela's antiquated circuit bungalow is now used as the police quarters of Rakwana police station. In the Maduwanwela Walauwe in the Kolonne Valley, the floor space of the verandah is studded with such exquisite pieces of crockery in the form of a lotus flower in bloom.

Its date there is marked as 01.01.1901, thereby indicating that the Dissawa's circuit bungalow at Rakwana is just four years older than the spacious Maduwanwela Walauwa in Kolonne.

Adjoining the police station on the same elevation, lies the Court House where the Maduwanwela Dissawa dispensed justice with an iron fist.

This sprawling building is largely changed today with the roof being replaced with asbestos sheets. The front windows are glass panelled. At present this building is used as the Court House where sessions are held.

Here lies, by the roadside a small but beautiful church named St. John's Church which is over 100 years old. On its outer wall is carved the year 1887 prominently. So this, it is undoubtedly the oldest building in Rakwana as the Maduwanwela's bungalow was built in 1897 - ten years later. The church, unique in design and architecture has a timbered gable in its frontage porch. Its porch of brick and plaster appears to have been built in 1902 as indicated on it. On a tablet displayed at its entrance are inscribed the following lines:

"This church dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was built in 1887 by the Church Missionary Society, London. It is maintained by the alms and free will offerings of her worshippers. Behind the Christian giving, discern and the good hand of the God and we would ascribe all the praise to Him who disposes the hearts of his children to give liberally of their means for the work and witness of this church. The church, Hony. Treasurer would be pleased to receive contributions from visitors and worshippers.'"

The original patrons of this small church had been the British planters. The Church is still held in reverence and patronized by the local Christian community. Adjoining this little church is a small graveyard. The Vicarage adjoining the church appears to be as ancient as this church. There is a Vicar in residence there. The little belfry stands on a dwarf stone masonry pedestal.

Its retaining wall comprises stone masonry work. Another old Colonial building is the hospital. Its tiles are dated 1862. Despite subsequent extensions, the old buildings still remain intact in its pristine state.

Close to this little church lies yet another colonial relic - the post office. its roof is clad with calicut tiles having a vaulted roof over it. This antiquated building housing the Post Office is nearly 75 years old.

The other landmark of great antiquity and beauty with a scenic mountain setting is the colonial type Rest House perched on a hillock by the road side of the Suriyakanda Road within easy reach of the Rakwana townlet. The verandah projects into its square frontage having cloistered glass shutters. It occupies a spacious area covering its three sides.

This Rest House in the days of the planters and the stage coach was where the Planters, Dissawas, Government Agents, Rate Mahatmayas and other high officials of the colonial regime relaxed, dined and wined. It is still patronised by tourists - local and foreign.

The Galdola Ella flowing from the surrounding mountains could be viewed from this Rest House. It still brings back to mind the unspoilt memories of the life and times of those stately bygone days.