The cave monastery:

Ridi Vihara, an explorer’s dream come true

by Nilma DOLE

For any discerning adventurer, exploring obscure historical sites around Sri Lanka can be a daunting task. It isn't easy because one can lose one's bearings, making the whole sojourn quite a tester. However, once you get to your destination, you find how truly magical it is and how privileged we are to be Sri Lankans with such a rich heritage.

One such wonder is the glorious silver temple, the Ridi Vihara. Even though the journey is through many hidden gravel roads and winding bends, this amazing place is shrouded in mystery. Moreover, it is indeed peaceful to discover the place for yourself without the hustle and bustle of vendors pushing their wares in your face, buses honking their horns or even hordes of tourists because it's difficult to access.

A lesser known site close to Kurunegala, Ridi Vihara is actually a cave monastery and it offers the same feeling even today.

Ridi Vihara is located in close proximity to the quaint town of Ridigama (silver village) which is 15 kilometres west of the Kandy-Dambulla highway, roughly parallel between Matale and Kurunegala.

What would be surprising to note is that Ridi Vihara was actually built during the reign of King Dutugemunu (164 - 140 BC). According to legend, the king was building his prized creation, the Ruwanweliseya Dagaba when he suddenly ran out of funds. So it was like a gift from the gods when he discovered rich silver ore in Ridigama and built the Ridi Vihara in appreciation. Unfortunately, King Dutugemunu didn't live to see Ruwanweliseya completed so it was just as well that the great leader at least got to witness the Ridi Vihara in all its glory.

South Indian art

At the entrance to the walkway, you can see the Varaka Valandu Vihara (famously known as the jakfruit temple) which is on a fork leading to the historical sites. Built in the 11th century BC, the Varaka Vihara is greatly influenced by South Indian art where there are sculptures and Kandyan styled paintings showing unity in diversity.

The Varaka Valandu Vihara

Turning left and walking further along, a set of wooden pillars exists leading to a little rock outcrop, rather like a mini Sigiriya, where the lower temple or 'Pahala Vihara' lies. Just like Sigiriya's troublesome wasps (hornets), you have to be careful as there hangs a huge beehive so it's best to tread quietly as a commotion might cause them to stir.

It might take some convincing powers to get the caretakers to open the little cave temple which is amazing once revealed. Like something out of Ali Baba's story, you are greeted by a Pancha Nari Gataya (knot of five maidens) at the entrance and inside, a resting Buddha statue encased in gold can be seen. Moreover, at the base of the statue, you can see Dutch tiles depicting Biblical scenes donated by a Dutch bhikkhu. Further along the cave are the illustrious sculptures of Avalokiteshvara (Natha), King Dutugemunu, of which the latter is an antique statue dating from the Anuradhapura period, as well as a fascinating reclining Buddha statue from Burma. The lovely ivory carving of a vase brilliantly fitted in to give the cave a subtle look is another attraction.

Upper, lower temples

The Upper Temple or Uda Vihara is right behind the Lower temple which is an 18th century structure constructed in memory of King Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe. A beautiful moonstone can be seen along with images of elephants, various Hindu deities and Buddha statues which goes to show that different beliefs can co-exist in peace and harmony.

The view from the temple

The painted optical illusion

The Buddha statue is flanked by a Makara Torana (Dragon Arch) of images of gods, devotees and Buddhas. Paintings of mythological animals and King Rawana too adorn the temple.

One of the most popular images at Ridi Vihara is a 'trompe l' oeil' or a painted optical illusion at the Cobra House, next to the main chamber of the Upper Temple. A wonderful painting of nine Kandyan maidens perfectly fuse to form an elephant which leave visitors in amazement at the talent and creativity by artisans from years ago.

There is also a man-made lake near the foot of the hills. Walk up some precariously - cut stone steps to see an abandoned Dagaba at the top of a smooth rocky outcrop. On the way up, to right is an ancient inscription in the stone that has been etched as testament to King Dutugemunu's life.

Ridi Vihara is one of those hidden gems that are quite a challenge to visit, but it's always the wonder and talent exhibited by our predecessors that reveal that art definitely runs through our veins.