Towering structures cloaked in the dense jungle of Cambodia
Sandip Hor discovers an opulent past, but senses an impoverished
present as well while going through the vestiges of a lost civilisation.
"It is grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome," commented
French botanist Henry Mouhot in 1860 after by chance coming across a
series of towering structures cloaked in the dense jungle of Cambodia,
while searching for rare orchids.
He spotted the 1,000-year-old Angkor Wat Temple that had remained
veiled by Mother Nature for centuries. Mesmerised Mouhot illustrated his
discovery by writing in his travel diary, "A rival to that of Solomon
and erected by some ancient Michelangelo - might take an honourable
place beside our most beautiful buildings." Since then anyone who has
been to this marvel, unanimously agrees with the French botanist's
annotations.
South Asian Cambodia today is the successor state of the mighty Khmer
Empire which between the eighth and 13 centuries, ruled much of the
present Vietnam, Laos and Thailand from Angkor region presently located
few kilometres away from Siem Reap in the northwest of the nation.
Trade introduced Khmers to Indian art and culture and concurrently to
Hinduism and Buddhism which triggered the golden era of Indianised Khmer
civilisation that witnessed creation of over a thousand temples
reflecting features and myths that directly emerged from India. Central
to all of them is the 12th century built Angkor Wat, meaning the City
Temple, which in recent years has drawn over two million visitors from
around the globe, I being one of them.
My first glimpse of the wondrous icon from the car park can be best
described as dramatic.
Though I had seen countless images before, the distant view of the
soaring structure, crowned with beehive-like towers and surrounded by
walls and moats, standing most provokingly in the middle of a huge
complex instantly conquers my eager mind. Its setting demands
appreciation, it colours under the sun create sensations, while its
scale makes you understand why it is revered as the largest religious
site in the world.
Joined by thousands I enter the complex through the same gate and the
causeway that was earlier used by the royals, noting saluting Khmer
guards of the past replaced by hordes of vendors and guides.
The main monument is structured like a pyramid, in three levels each
enclosed by rectangular galleries built around open courtyards in
diminishing size ultimately rising to the summit crowned with five
towers in a quincunx.
It may be noted that most Khmer temples were instituted not as a
place of public meeting and worship, rather as an arty palace for gods,
enshrined there to bestow blessings, in particular to the king who
endeavoured the construction. Accordingly Angkor Wat was built as a home
for Lord Vishnu whose huge statue ornamented the summit till replaced by
impressive images of Lord Buddha when Buddhism at a later date became
the state religion. The original Vishnu figure now showcased near the
main entrance testifies to the legend.
Going around Angkor Wat, no doubt, is an artistic expedition and the
first set of rewards are bestowed at the lower level which feature
almost 600 metres of stunning bas reliefs, inscriptions and carvings
along the walls.
Revered as one of the most famous contributions of Khmer
civilisation, the frescos on stone portray scenes from the *Ramayana*,
*Mahabharata *and Hindu mythology. Carvings of apsaras, the celestial
dancers, in almost every corner of the compound are another creative
feature that draws attention.
During a short stay it's not possible to surf all the vestiges from
the Khmer civilisation, ranging in scale from nondescript piles of brick
rubble to the bravura monuments.
- The Hindu
|
