Miyajima:

The abode of the gods

By Pramod De Silva

The Shinto Shrine at Miyajima

When the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan invited me to visit the country recently, an official asked me to name the city that I like to visit most. Without any hesitation, I replied “Hiroshima”. I wanted to make a sort of pilgrimage to the Peace Memorial there, which symbolises the utter futility of wars between nations and the sheer destruction caused by one of the only two atomic bombs dropped on a ‘living’ city.

Little did I realise that Hiroshima is much more than the Peace Memorial, though it should be the main highlight of any visit to the city, which is about 700 Km from Tokyo. My guide and interpreter told me that a short Japan Railways ferry ride away on the Seto Inland Sea from the Hiroshima mainland, one could see a magical, mystical island that is often described as the ‘Place where Gods and People Live Together’.

The approach to Miyajima Island (Shrine Island in Japanese) from Hiroshima is nothing less than stunning. The only other ferry ride that comes close to the Hiroshima-Miyajima 10-minute ferry trip is the Star Ferry ride from Kowloon to Hong Kong island at night, with the lit-up Hong Kong skyscrapers almost touching the sky.

Floating on water

The first thing one notices about Miyajima is a gate that seemingly floats on water at high tide. Called a Torii gate in Japanese, the entrance to the island’s famous Shinto Shrine is ranked as one of Japan’s three best picture postcard views. In fact, the island is officially called Itsukushima, after the shrine. Like the Torii gate, the shrine’s main buildings, including a Noh theatre, are built over water.

Visitors swarm around the Torii gate at low tide

True, Miyajima is a well-known tourist spot, but that does not make it any less alluring. If the shrine does not entice you, there is one other aspect of the island that will. It is perhaps the only place in Japan where deer roam freely in the wild, but they are completely at ease with people. One can stroke and feed them (though the latter is not encouraged) and even protective mothers will let people cuddle their offspring without a murmur. The island truly belongs to the deer, which is everywhere.

“The island has a long history,” said my guide, as we walked along the wooden planks of the Shinto Shrine (which you can enter by paying 500 Yen) while taking in the stunning views of the sea and the city of Hiroshima across the bay. The island’s highest peak, Mount Misen was worshipped by the local inhabitants as early as the sixth century. In 1168, Taira no Kiyomori, the most powerful man in Japan during the end of the Heian Period, selected the island as the site of his clan’s family shrine and built the Itsukushima Shrine.

Although I visited the shrine during daytime, many people stay overnight at a local Ryokan (Japanese guesthouse) just to view the colourfully illuminated shrine and the Torii gate after sunset while enjoying a leisurely walk. However, it is not possible to enter the shrine itself after 6 p.m. Another alternative is a boat cruise, which enables tourists to view the illuminated island from the sea. Cruises last over 30 minutes and take passengers around the bay and through the Torii gate during high tide.

Tide timings

Indeed, it is better to be aware of the tide timings during a visit to Miyajima. At high tide, the shrine and its gate appear to float above the water. At low tide, the water drains out of the bay and visitors can walk up to see the gate at close quarters.

In Japan, Shinto and Buddhist shrines often exist side by side, reflecting the religious nature of the Japanese people themselves, who often practise both philosophies. Miyajima also has a famous Buddhist temple, a little distance away from the Shinto Shrine at the foot of Mount Misen. Known as Daisho-in, it is one of the most important Buddhist (Shingon Order) temples in Japan. Daisho-in features a variety of buildings, statues and other religious objects. These include the Kannon-do Hall, the Maniden Hall, a sand mandala made by visiting monks from Tibet, a tea room and a cave filled with 88 Buddhist icons.

A Japanese child pets a deer at Miyajima

The Torii gate at high tide

That is not all. Along the temple stairs is a row of spinning metal wheels that are inscribed with Buddhist sutras. Turning the inscriptions as one walks up is believed to have the same effect as reading them. Thus, even if one cannot read Japanese, one will still be blessed.

If one is up to it - literally - a hiking trail leads from the temple grounds to the summit of Mount Misen, where more temple halls are located. At least 90 minutes should be allocated for the hike which promises magnificent views of the island, city and beyond. The area is part of the Momiji-dani Park, or Maple Leaf Park which has many maple trees.

Souvenir, curio shops

Back in town, all tourists take some time to wander in and out of the souvenir and curio shops which sell handicraft and cloth items hand-made by artisans in Miyajima. Such items being a rarity in most other Japanese cities, it is better to pick up an authentic souvenir or two from these shops. Prices are clearly marked, so language is mostly a non-issue.

All this activity will make one hungry - and one is in the right place. Miyajima has many delicious specialties such as fresh oysters and conger eels caught in the Seto Inland Sea, rice cakes that are said to increase strength and sweet-bean buns which are shaped like a maple leaf. While there are plenty of restaurants serving freshly made Miyajima food, it is almost impossible to get a seat at lunch or dinner time - I actually had to get back to the mainland for lunch.

Miyajima has more surprises in store. Standing in the far western end of Miyajima’s town area, the Miyajima Public Aquarium, improved and reopened in August 2011, introduces fish and other aquatic creatures of the local salt and fresh waters around Miyajima, the Seto Inland Sea and seas and oceans around the globe. More than 13,000 varieties of fish and marine species are on display. Among the displays is an oyster farm, commonly seen around Miyajima island.

For someone visiting Japan, especially Hiroshima, Miyajima is an attraction that should not be missed. It is a 10-minute trip that will leave one with memories of a lifetime. A designated World Heritage Site, Miyajima will leave a lasting impression as a magical island where the mountains, sea, deer and other creatures and religious edifices blend together in everlasting harmony.