Mawaragala forest hermitage - where silence and serenity prevail

By Mahil Wijesinghe

As we drove along the A-26 Mahiyangana-Padiyathalawa road one sunny morning, I was suddenly struck with the idea of visiting the ancient forest hermitage called Mawaragala, which lies on the slope of a rocky mountain in Dambana. There I was at Mawaragala forest hermitage 15 kilometres away from Mahiyangana town, taking the turn just before the ancestral Adhivasi village, Kotabakiniya.

Neatly kept pathways led us on a steady climb through the forest and rock boulder, the greenery all around providing a salubrious climate. It was a hot sunny morning, yet the ample tree shade protected us from the heat. The rocky landscape and the serene undisturbed environment seemed ideal for meditation. Those pathways were leading to Kutis or monk’s adobes built in drip-ledge caves, where monks stay and meditate. The Mawaragala forest hermitage was on top of a rocky mountain in the midst of a 500-acre forest. The drip-ledge caves with Brahmi inscriptions were built on the slope of that mountain. The chief bhikkhu of the hermitage has taken steps to protect the existing flora, while growing more trees in the area surrounding the hermitage as well.

At the hermitage, we met a young Samanera bhikkhu named Ven. Kewle Samithawansa. He took us to every nook and corner of the hermitage while relating the history of the hermitage to us. At first he took us to the chief monk’s Kuti. The chief bhikkhu was away from the hermitage at the time we went there. The history of the hermitage dates back to the King Valagambahu’s reign. According to legend, an erudite bhikkhu called Maliyadeva Thera and 60 bhikkhus lived in this spot during that period. Later, those rock caves had been used by the Adhivasis of Dambana for dwelling.

“Water is the burning problem for us here. A devotee from Colombo had donated four water tanks for the use of the bhikkhus and devotees who come to give alms” said the bhikkhu showing us huge water tanks at the hermitage.

“Today what we need is a spacious resting hall for devotees who come from far away places to give alms. We don’t even print books to sell to people to collect money for the building. Whatever they give, we accept. Most of the people in our village are Adhivasis. They don’t have a proper income to make ends meet. We can’t expect anything from them. Most of our Dayakayas (devotees) are outsiders,” he said. All in all, there are enough Kutis for at least 25 bhikkhus at the hermitage.

These have been built inside the drip-ledge caves in the forest reserve, away from the entrance to the hermitage where the shrine room is located. A small building is built for devotees to prepare alms for the bhikkhu. It is only during restricted periods that visitors are allowed into the area where the Kutis are located. The restricted time is between 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. This is to avoid disturbing the meditating bhikkhus.

During our stay at the hermitage, we witnessed the midday meal (alms giving) activities. Over 20 bhikkhus were present for the midday dana. At around 11 am one monk rang the bell to alert the monks in distance Kutis, informing them to gather near the main entrance. From there, they walked to the Danasalawa (alms hall). It was a rare sight, to see them walking silently down the pathway on Pindapatha, in keeping with the tradition dating back to the days of the Buddha.

They came in single file, one after the other, each carrying an alms bowl. Once their feet were washed, they moved as one, and patiently let the devotees serve the alms which they prepared in the morning, into their begging bowls. Then they retired into the alms hall located a little further in the forest and sat down to eat the food they had been offered.

The Bawanagala was the most interesting place to see in the hermitage. The rock surface offered naturally laid floor area, which was about 25 square feet. Legend has it that it was where monk Maliyadeva and 60 monks meditated. The holes on the rock surface, it was learnt were indications that in the past it was covered with a roof to offer shelter to the monks from the rain and sun.While there are meditating monks in permanent residence at the hermitage, foreign bhikkhus also visit and stay for a short period to practise meditation. In addition to meditation, the hermitage has a Pirivena (school for novice monks) for those who come from places such as Padiyathalawa, Maha Oya and other remote areas.

The award-winning film, Suriya Arana that was filmed in a cave of this hermitage, is a favourite site among visitors who come to see this place. Ven. Samithawansa who was our guide at the hermitage took us to the cave through a footpath to show us where the filming was done. The Mawaragala forest hermitage is a gift of nature where silence and serenity prevail-the ideal place for meditating monks who struggle to seek emancipation, and finally attain nirvana. The place is open for nature lovers- the best medicine for a stressed-out mind. Before we left the hermitage, I told Ven. Samithawansa- “the forest of the hermitage has been protected because the people in the village love the forest”. Although they are poor, the Adhivasi community of Dambana is instrumental in this task.

Pictures: Mahil Wijesinghe