To Jaffna by train

Some friends and I recently travelled to Jaffna by train and I thought we’d share our experience. I had previously visited Jaffna soon after the end of the war (like most of the population in the South) and was curious to see the development and changes that had occurred over the past 5 years.

Purchasing the ticket

Although I was told that one can purchase the ticket (costing Rs 1,500 each way) over the internet, I decided to buy it personally at Fort Railway station. I went there approximately a week before the date of departure. The experience was both frustrating and time-consuming.

The entire process took more than an hour and there was confusion all around. I ended up waiting in three separate queues; first to ask information as to which queue to stand in; second, to buy the ticket to Jaffna and, as this booth was for some strange reason unable to issue me with my return ticket, third, the final and longest to buy the return ticket to Colombo.

The ticket office was small, hot and crowded with both local travellers and foreign tourists standing in various queues, which crossed one another, all attempting to buy tickets to various parts of the island.

The journey

The air-conditioned express train leaves Mount Lavinia at 5.15 a.m. daily and arrives at Colombo Fort station at 5.40 a.m. As the ticket specified the carriage and seat number, the process of finding our seat was relatively straightforward. However, some passengers were clearly confused and uncertain and a railway official on the platform would have been helpful.

The train was very good with clean and modern seats, which reclined to allow a person to sleep if they wished and could be adjusted for greater comfort. There was adequate foot space as well as a comfortable footrest. A folding tray and a place to leave the glass further improved the passenger comfort. There was also sufficient overhead storage space to store a small bag and there was space for larger items at the beginning of each carriage.

The train was comfortably air-conditioned and there were televisions showing various cartoons and music programs. I was told by the conductor that the canteen was no longer operational as it had burnt down! No outside vendors are allowed on the train, and although it is possible to quickly dart out to buy basic provisions when the train stops at a station, it is advisable to bring water and provisions for the journey. The toilet facilities are basic i.e. squatting, with handles on either side, which one can cling to! Maintenance and cleaning of the toilets could be better. Our tickets were checked once during the course of the journey by two ticket officers. If they are to match the standard of the train, both uniforms and customer relations need improvement.

The journey time to Jaffna is approximately 6.5 hours. The train briefly stopped at the larger stations to pick up passengers. The bulk of the passengers left the train at Anuradhapura.

The landscape

Once the train passes Kurunegala, the countryside becomes increasingly beautiful. Approaching Anuradhapura the scenery changes with lakes and abundant bird life. Beyond Anuradhapura, the landscape again changes and the signature ‘Thal’ tree of the Northern Province becomes more and more visible until it is the predominant feature. As you move further North, the landscape becomes more desolate, the sight of villages or people becomes a rare sight and the landscape is just wilderness.

Some observations

* Jaffna and the Islands are a unique and surprisingly beautiful place and quite different from other parts of Sri Lanka. The natural beauty of the lagoons and the beaches; the abundant birdlife; the unique flora and fauna; the historical and cultural sites are truly amazing. The Jaffna cuisine is both different and delicious.

* Travelling there by train is a quick and comfortable way of reaching the peninsular. However, facilities on arrival need to be improved and publicized in order to assist visitors. An efficient government/Northern Province tourist board office providing information about accommodation is a real need for visitors to Jaffna. Also an official website dedicated to the Northern Province highlighting and listing out the unique attractions and places of interest in the North.

* Similar to Colombo, a project to ‘Beautify Jaffna’ would improve the urban environment and would imbue the local populace with civic pride as it has done in Colombo and the suburbs. This would include urban facilities such as pavements, paved roads, pedestrian crossings, and traffic lights, sanitary facilities, shopping facilities, parklands, and green leisure areas, walking tracks and clean and affordable restaurants for use by the local population.

* There is a subtle but definite air of melancholy which hangs over the town and the people. This is undoubtedly the inevitable result of the isolation and suffering experienced over an extended period of time. Hopefully as the years pass and peace and prosperity becomes the norm, Jaffna will again become a proud, vibrant and unique city attracting admiring visitors from both the South as well as overseas.

The only exception to this is the new stations which have been built to support the train system. They are all of the same ‘uber’ architectural design. The sight of these stations in the middle of the wilderness is rather surreal. Our express train did not stop at any of these stations and we arrived at the Jaffna Railway station at approximately 1 p.m.

First day in Jaffna

Our hotel was next to the station and our experience there was very good. All the staff were friendly and eager to please. The food was authentic Jaffna cuisine, the prices cheap by Colombo standards and the portions generous. We had a delicious lunch of lagoon prawns (Jaffna style), ordered the signature dish of Jaffna, ‘Oliyal Kool’ (a sea food soup) for dinner and rested. Later that afternoon, we walked to Jaffna town, which took approximately 15 minutes at a snail’s pace. We were keen to see the town, its people and experience the atmosphere in and around the city.

Except for the trishaw and van drivers outside the railway station who eagerly offered their services, none of the local populace took any notice of us. Once in the town and in the market place we did some pavement shopping where our reception was better!!

We were surprised and glad to see a very new and modern Food City in the centre of town (there are in fact three Food Cities in Jaffna) and a food mall on the upper level with a number of food outlets including a branch of the famous Rio Ice cream and the infamous KFC! Dinner was back at the hotel and the ‘Oliyal Kool’ was both generous and delicious.

Exploring the Islands

On our second day we drove from Jaffna to the ferry port of Kurikkadduwan (KKD) to catch the ferry to Nainativu (Nagadeepa). The journey to the ferry port takes approximately 45 minutes by van and we passed through some beautiful scenery, and two causeways linking first Jaffna to Velanai and then linking Velanai to Punkuditivu and the ferry port at KKD.

Although it was a weekday, there were a large number of visitors from the South waiting to board the boat service to the island. We were told that there were much larger numbers at the weekends. The boats, the waiting areas, toilet facilities, all need to be radically improved if visitors are to be provided even minimal standards of comfort and service.

Later we also made tracks to other places of interest including Kantorodai ruins, Dambakolapatuna and Point Pedro. We also ate delicious ‘Poowalai’ bananas, which we were told is only grown in Jaffna and had a snack of boiled ‘kotta kilangu’.

We again had dinner at the hotel and that night tried out the Jaffna mutton curry. The portion was huge by Colombo standards and delicious.

On the third day we visited the Island of Delft. It is a remote and beautiful place, well off the beaten track, which very few visitors take the time to visit. Although the island feels deserted and entirely cut off from civilisation, there is a beauty and ethereal quality which makes it an unforgettable experience. This was in many ways the highlight of our trip. There are minimal facilities for tourists and visitors. The boat for Delft also leaves from KKD. The journey time is approximately one hour. The boat is hot and crowded and a seat is not guaranteed. Once you arrive at the island there are numerous trishaws, which will take you on a tour of the main sights for a fee of approximately Rs.1, 500.

The main sights to see are the wild horses, which are unique to Delft. There are supposed to be over 2000.

We saw four and they looked half-starved and in a pathetic state. Urgent action needs to be taken by the relevant government authorities to safeguard and ensure the well-being of these unique animals.

The other sights on the island include an ancient Baobab tree, a giant rock, which is said to be growing, a ruined Dutch fort, a Dutch lighthouse, an imprint in the Coral which is supposed to be Adam’s foot.

On returning to Jaffna town we visited the market and stocked up on local delicacies to take back to Colombo; the famous dried prawns; the dried ‘kotta kilangu’; Jaffna red onions, Palmyrah jam and Jaffna curry powder.

Final day

We again wandered around the streets surrounding our hotel to absorb the daily life in the town and visited a historical house on Temple Road, which we were told that both Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru had visited.

After lunch at a rather up market new hotel that we discovered on Temple Road we headed to the station.

The train left Jaffna at 2.45 p.m. and arrived in Colombo at approximately 9 p.m.