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An enriching trip to :

Glorious Polonnaruwa

by Rikaza Hassan

The last few decades in the history of the Colombo National Museum has seen it degrade from bad to worse but in January this year, it saw its first rays of sunshine through the dark clouds with the opening of the Anuradhapura Gallery in a Rs. 6 million project sponsored by HSBC. The museum reached its second milestone last Tuesday when the completely revamped and refurbished Polonnaruwa Gallery was officially opened by the Minister of Cultural Affairs and National Heritage.

Though not as large or containing as many artefacts, the Polonnaruwa Gallery showcases information, statues and other artefacts as well as working models from one of the most interesting and important historical periods in our past (11th-12th century).

The second capital of Sri Lanka, the royalty were attracted to the city as they deemed it safer from enemy attacks by the South Indian Colas (as spelt by the museum) that began at the end of the Anuradhapura period. It was also the glorious period where the economy revived and agriculture, irrigation, trade and foreign relations as well as religious and cultural upliftment reached its climax.

The visitor to the white washed gallery is greeted by a picture of one of the greatest kings in Sri Lankan history, King Parakramabahu the Great and the breeze from the pedestal fans that line the walls.

Glossy information panels in Sinhala, English and Tamil cover the walls of the rectangularly spaced room.

Agriculture and irrigation, trade and foreign relations, coinage, Buddhist art and architecture, and Hindu Sculpture are some of the informative boards. Also found are detailed information on the many architecturally challenging structures that were built during this period and still to be seen today at least as ruins: the Alahana Parivena, the largest structure built by Parakramabahu I, the Sacred Quadrangle located on an oblong terrace, the Palada Maluva at the Palace Complex, the Galvihara (Vittarama), a renowned cave shrine with colossal Buddha images in sitting, standing and recumbent postures carved out of living rock.

Perhaps the most astonoshing feat is the Lankatilaka image shrine, the largest image shrine of five storeys in the gedige architectural style and built entirely of bricks including the roof structure.

The two pylons in the front are 55 ft high in its destroyed state. Health and sanitation was at its peak during this time under the patronage of King Parakramabahu. Evidence of residential hospitals for both the clergy and the laiety, maternity hospitals, outdoor dispensaries and veterinary hospitals have been found in fresh architectural digs. Some of these artefacts on display are scissors, spoons, probes, and herbal grinders.

The progression of language is amply demonstrated by the first copper plate grant by a Sri Lankan king on display; the three copper plates with writing on both sides is a special grant made to an officer for offering protection to the king in the 11th century. Scythes, mamotees and ploughshares from the 12th century lay claim to the advancement in agriculture.

One of the highlights of the gallery is the bronze Elephant lamp (11-12th century AC) from the Kotavehera in Dedigama. The hollow cast hanging lamp contains a hydrostatic device for the regulation of oil into the belly of the elephant and poured onto a receptacle through the male organ of the elephant.

A mechanical device regulates the amount of oil ensuring that there is no overflow. The Polonnaruwa period saw the advent of Hinduism in Sri Lanka with the Cola invasion. Sculptures in clay, stone and stucco of the many Hindu deities including Ganesa, Siva Nataraja, Parvati and their son Skanda as well as information on the Hindu Sculptures are present for the visitor's enrichment.

A fragmented coral sculpture of Visnu with his rear right hand holding a conch is a masterpiece so rarely executed in coral and will no doubt delight anyone with an artistic eye.

The cynosure of all eyes at the gallery and sure to delight the primary schoolers is a working model of the Bisokotuva, a valve pit that hailed a technical breakthrough in irrigation.

The ingenious device regulates the amount of water sent out through a sluice and avoids any damage to the lake bund and the sluice by high pressure water. The valve also regulates the entry points of water.

Trilingual descriptive boards, orderly arranged artefacts boxed in glass, never before seen artefacts from fresh digs as well as those on loan from other Sri Lankan museums, sunlight, a state of the art lighting system and fans to blow away at least some of that heat and lavatories will ensure that your basic comforts are taken care of while you enjoy an enriching trip to an era of much fame and pride.

HSBC also further enhanced its standing in corporate social responsibility in Sri Lanka, an almost non-existent entity when its Deputy Chief Executive Officer, Sarath Piyaratna announced that the company would be undertaking the revampment of the Kandy Gallery as well.

So expect to see the glories of the Kandyan kingdom displayed in its full glory in a few months and while you're waiting why not stop at the Museum and take in the mysteries and intrigues of the Polonnaruwa period?


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