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Preserving the grandeur of Kandy

by Rikaza Hassan


King Sri Vikrama Rajasinha’s royal seat. Pix by Chinthaka Kumarasinghe

It was November 9, 2005. The Kandyan dancers spun and twirled to the beat of drums, to welcome the invitees, the procession led by a couple dressed in Kandyan attire walked into the Colombo National Museum, towards galleries four and five for the opening of the revamped galleries for the transitional (the period lasting from the end of the Polonnaruwa era to the beginning of the Kandy era) and the Kandy periods.

The Rs. 4 million project, the third partnership between HSBC and the National Museum to completely refurbish the galleries began in August this year. Previously, HSBC entered into similar partnerships to renovate both the Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa galleries which opened to the public in January and April this year.

Historical heritage

It marked HSBC's commendable effort to help in the preservation of our rich historical heritage for the future generation as well as to make those of the present aware of this national treasure and pride.

The galleries opened to walls painted recently in apt colours surrounding the artifacts housed in new display cases.

The dust and grit familiar from so very long ago was not to be found, instead were very clean glass and wood panelling, not to mention the artifacts themselves seemed to be glowing with new light with the help of apposite lighting. Perhaps the only inconvenience was the stifling heat despite the cool weather outside possibly due to the lack of even a single fan or even proper ventilation.

Especially helpful to students and the history enthusiast is the visitor's guide filled with comprehensive information about the post Polonnaruwa to pre-historic Kandy and the kingdom of Kandy. The 22-paged booklet is available in the Sinhala, Tamil and English languages and is priced at Rs. 25, the exception being the English translation costing twice the amount.

Information panels coloured with pictures of actual historical sites and relics provide the visitor with an interesting yet all-inclusive view of an episode of our past extending the four centuries beginning in the 13th century and ending with the succumbing of the Kingdom of Kandy to the British in 1815. The visitor is educated in the political history, architecture, sculpture, painting and more of the transitional and Kandy periods.

Many a newly discovered and hitherto undisplayed artifact was showcased in the transitional period gallery.

The reliquaries and silverware had been unearthed in a little temple in the hills of Udunuvara; the incumbent priest of which gladly presented the artifacts to its rightful abode - the National Museum. Foreign ceramics were to be seen aplenty in their display shelves.

Also was a stone slab with a unique inscription. Discovered by the then district engineer H.F. Tomalin in the town of Galle in 1911, the inscription is written in the three languages of Chinese, Persian and Tamil.

The dedicatory inscription evokes the blessings of Hindu divinities as well as records a number of ritual items sent to Sri Lanka for the worship of Vishnu. Inscribed in China, it is date back to the year 1403 during the reign of the Chinese Emperor Ying Lo.

Exhibits

Also on exhibition was the cullaraggo, the oldest existing Pali palm leaf manuscript in Sri Lanka. Composed of 143 leaves and in good preservation, it is written in the Sinhala characters of the 13th century. Displayed were many swords and sword sticks of Portuguese, Dutch and Sri Lankan origin.

The royal swords of the 16th century of King Parakramabahu IV of Kotte and the Kastana sword of King Buvanakabahu of Yapahuwa were some of local swords of grandiose origin. Demonstrating the excellent craftsmanship of the past was the nallalpatta (forehead band) belonging to King Buvanakabahu of the 14th century Gampola Kingdom. Such forehead bands were worn by kings or presented to chieftains and craftsmen honoured by the king.

Gallery

A most fascinating artifact in the gallery of the transitional period was a tiny and exquisite ivory scale. The cross bar measuring 7 cm long is preserved in an ivory box and the scale in whole was used in the weighing of gold, musk, etc. The scale was found in the then capital of Sitavaka.

The gallery prescribed to the Kandy period had on display many an artifact carved out of ivory. Beautiful combs, pill and cosmetic boxes modified in flora, fauna and damsels, ceremonial objects such as flutes, scent sprinklers (simidiya) lined the shelves.

Also in ivory were Buddha statues, chests and relic caskets. Silverware, brass and silver ritual ware, brass trays, jewellery boxes and panels highlighted the crafts of the period. Swords were another major display including ceremonial kastana swords as well as the sword of the Ahelepola Adikarama.

The royal guns made a most impressive display having belonged to the armoury of King Sri Vikrama Rajasinha. Confiscated to England, the guns were through the Ceylon Trade Commissioner of London.

Artifacts belonging to the Kandyan royalty included the royal watch, golden dish, sword insignia ring, chunam containers and the two royal seats. The royal seat made of ebony and richly carved with floral motifs was used King Rajasinha when receiving royal guests at the palace.

In 1815, the chair came in to the possession of William Boyd (of Auckland Boyd & Co.) when the palaces were sacked and later presented to the museum by his niece.

The Royal seat donated to King Wimaladharmasuriya II in 1693 by the Dutch Governor Thomas Vanree who ruled the coastal area at the time was used by six later kings and taken to England after the fall of the last Rajasinha. The seat was sent back to Sri Lanka by King George V in 1934.

Glimpse of ...

The National Museum Project was planned and organised yet again by Professor Leelananda Prematilleke who has been seen in the Museum nearly everyday ever since the first gallery overhaul was confirmed, taking into consideration even the little guy's suggestion. Together with monetary and other support from HSBC and other contributors the once derelict museum has been given a face-lift, at least partially.

The National Museum which will be celebrating its 128th year early next year has been given a chance to rise up from dust and decay. We Sri Lankans have been given a chance to take a glimpse of our rich cultural heritage.


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