Chaaya Village Habarana

A new hotel that's 30 years old has opened in the heartland of Sri Lanka, bringing a chance for visitors to discover the island's inner beauty.

Chaaya Village may not look like it any more, but in its former life it was known simply as Habarana Village. Its new name, and image, is part of the re-branding process set in motion by the John Keells Group for their hotels in Sri Lanka and the Maldives.

It is fitting that the first Chaaya resort should be the first ever Keells' hotel. Habarana Village was the first hotel opened by the company 30 years ago and was the foundation of the success of Keells Hotels. Its new name, Chaaya, will be shared by the group's simpler resort properties. It is based on the Sinhala word for shadow or reflection, not a variation of "chai" meaning tea.

Background over. So what about the resort? It really is new, but by no means off-putting in its transformation into a hotel for the 21st century. The architects have remained true to the village tradition of rusticity without the intrusion of contemporary gimmicks. There are 94 superior rooms, 12 deluxe and two remarkable suites, the Eagle and Kingfisher Lodges.

I stayed in a superior room and it could more appropriately be called an upmarket village cottage. It was one half of a semi-detached unit, so designed that even when sitting outside on the porch, there was no sense of one's neighbour. These cottages (OK, rooms) are grouped in clusters reached by central paths, for this is a horizontal hotel spread out in a vast tropical parkland.

The rooms are extraordinarily comfortable and well-appointed, given that this is not a five-star property. The main wall is of glass windows, shaded by tats (rattan blinds), which have rolling screens in front of them to slide shut at night. The beds are of solid wood and made to a brilliant design that enables them to fit snugly into minimal space. All the rooms have A/C, mini bar, cable TV and tea/coffee marker.

The bathroom is simple but a delight: lots of ledges and a small washbasin, with a shower behind a glass panel, and an extractor to keep the air fresh. Since a footprint is the logo for the hotel, the DND notice is in the shape of a wooden footprint.

The logo turns up again in the folder detailing the "ways of the village." This is where "concept" kicks in, with "Experience Packages" of various things to do, introduced - according to the brochure - "so your visit becomes as distinctive as you." It contains five footprint-shaped cutouts offering various activities, some demanding a high level of physical activity, so guests can become acquainted with the area and its traditions, both cultural and pastoral.

These are not the usual and somehow disturbing elephant/jeep safaris but participatory not voyeuristic experiences. For instance, "The Fish-er-way" exclusion involves joining fishermen on the lake in their narrow wooden canoes, both to cast nets and also the next morning at sunrise to pull them in and share the catch. Another, called "Adrenalin and Adventure" has guests exploring caves, rock climbing amongst ancient ruins, and finishes up with Jungle Cocktails and a chance to cuddle a python.

For me the greater pleasure was the chance to enjoy the spacious open-sided bar while gazing through the woodland at the lake shimmering beyond. As an introduction to the lake, the hotel's new swimming pool is irresistible. Unusually it is triangular in shape, tapering off into infinity. It is three tiered with three terraces of water to wade through (or to wallow in) before plunging in to swim to the deepest point at its apex. There are also tennis and badminton courts, a jungle gym and a jogging track for the super-energetic.

Most of the meals at Chaaya Village are served as buffets but this does not mean uninspired or formula cuisine. The choice is amazing and the natural setting inspiring.

Complementing this new concept of holiday village life is a competent and personable staff. Many come from the locality and seem to have been trained to express their personality rather than mumble politely and vanish. Everyone was so helpful during my stay, I feel as though I have made friends there and I look forward to going back as soon as possible. What more could one want from a holiday?

(R.E.)

Courtesy - Explore Sri Lanka