A charming spot in the city

by D. C. Ranatunge

In the heart of the city of Colombo is a fresh water lake acclaimed by many as one of the most charming spots in the city. This site was not only a busy centre of import and export trade but also a hive of cultural and social interaction during the period when Sri Lanka was under foreign domination. Its past is fascinating, having been used for various purposes ranging from defence to concerts and theatrical events on its shores.

Though its name 'Beira' has its origins to the time when the Dutch administered the coastal areas of Sri Lanka (1658 - 1796), it had been in existence much earlier.

The first reference to the Lake is in connection with the siege of Colombo by King Vijayabahu VI in 1521 to drive away the Portuguese who had settled down in 1505. Mention is made that the Portuguese captain Lopo de Brito pursued the attackers, killing and wounding them till they reached a brook, which was afterwards dammed into a lake for the better fortification of the city.

In 1578, Mayadunne who ruled from Sitawaka in the outskirts of Colombo, also determined to drive away the captors, tried to drain the lake when he saw Portuguese boats plying in it but failed in his attempt. His son Rajasinghe who besieged Colombo several times succeeded in draining the lake twice.

The battle of Mulleriyawa (1561) in the suburbs of Colombo when he defeated the combined Portuguese and Sinhalese forces saw at least 1,700 Portuguese soldiers being killed. Encouraged by this victory, Rajasinghe marched against Kotte. where another Sinhalese king ruled and took pocession.

He captured Colombo too but he could not hold on since an insurrection in his own kingdom forced him to return.

It is mentioned that in preparing the defences of Colombo against the Dutch attack in 1665, the Portuguese made full use of the lake to bring down palm tree timber.

The Dutch, on their part, "launched on the lake many light and capacious vessels of extraordinary workmanship in which were 250 soldiers, to capture the houses of D. Jeronimo de Azavedo (a ruthless Portuguese general,) where the wall of the rampart was three palms broad and little more than one fathom high." So says Father Ferano de Queyroz in the Conquest of Ceylon (1688).

The lake was the scene of some of the bitterest encounters between the Dutch and the Portuguese. When the Portuguese ramparts were smashed into rubble, the defences were withdrawn to higher ground.

The low-lying ground outside was flooded and the lake water flowed as far as Kayman's Gate down Main Street in Pettah, the busy trading area beyond Fort, still a focal point of government and commercial activity. The lake was full of crocodiles and the term 'Kayman's Gate' is derived from the word Cayman, used by both the Portuguese and the Dutch for crocodile.

Mention is also made that there were several islands in the lake. Slave Island was one where at one time it had a cinnamon planation. Incidentally, the Dutch had confined their slaves to this island transporting them by boat to work during daytime. The crocodiles in the lake ensured that the slaves would not try to escape.

The Dutch sluice bearing the legend De Beer AD 1700 on a granite plate found near the present Regal Flats opposite the Regal cinema, is to commemorate the services rendered by the Dutch engineer who was responsible for the construction of the moats and water defences of the city. It is generally accepted that he was the man behind the lake project when it was redesigned and formed part of the overall planning of the city.

The British got rid of the crocodiles and made the Lake a beautiful location of rowing and sailing. Today the Rowing Club is housed in the pleasant environment of the Lake.

The Gangaramaya Temple, designed by renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa, is located on three island podiums along the Sir James Peris Mawatha stretch of the Beira. In February each year, the banks of the Lake come alive with the Nawam Maha Perahera, a cultural pageant featuring Buddhist rituals, traditional dance troupes and caparisoned elephants.

At the dawn of the 20th century, a proposal to connect the lake with the harbour by means of a canal and a lock or locks was considered. A committee appointed by the Governor, however, reported that such a canal would by itself be of little practical use. Early records state that the Lake at the time had an area of 400 acres and a volume of 83 million cubic feet at top water level surface.

Sadly, during the post independent years the Lake had deteriorated into a dumping ground and was loathed by people who walked or drove past it.

Proposals for a Beira Lake development project were taken up in the 1990s and with reclamation, much needed land for commercial development was made available in the city.

To commemorate President Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga's decade of ruling the country, a large-scale restoration project of Beira Lake was undertaken. 'Beira Walk' a recreational park for the whole family and 'Kala Duwa', an art gallery for local artists situated on the small island in the middle of the Lake, were opened to the public in December 2004. 'Kala Duwa' can be reached by crossing a modern suspension bridge, which is a work of art in itself.

The beauty and charm of the Lake can still be admired and appreciated from various points in the city. In addition to capturing the beauty of the Lake through his lens, Henry W Cave wrote about it in the introductory chapter in his Ceylon Along the Rail Track. His description, though composed a century ago is, valid to this day.

"This freshwater lake is one of the most charming features of Colombo.

Its ramifications are so many that one is constantly coming across pretty nooks and corners quite unexpectedly, each fresh view presenting a wealth of foliage luxuriant beyond description.

Palms in great variety intermingle with the gorgeous mass of scarlet flamboyant blossoms, the lovely lemon yellow lettuce tree, the ever-graceful bamboo, the crimson blossoms of the dark hibiscus, contrasting with the rich green of the areca, date and palmyrah palms, the huge waving leaves of the plantain flowering trees and shrubs of every description on tropical foliage, the whole forming to the rippling water a border of unrivalled beauty and unfailing interest."