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DateLine Sunday, 3 August 2008

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The grandest pageant of all

When somebody asks a child about the things he/she would like to see most, he/she would say the sea, animals, cartoons and definitely the perahera. Most children who have enjoyed watching a perahera may not be aware of the traditional rituals and history behind a perahera (pageant) like the world-famous

Kandy perahera held in the month of Esala (August). We thought of enlightening you on the line-up of people in the Kandy Perahera through this article, along with a few other important facts.

By now, most of you must be aware that the famous Esala perahera is held in honour of the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha which is in the custody of the Sri Dalada Maligawa in Kandy.

The Tooth Relic was brought to Sri Lanka in the 4th Century by Prince Dantha and Princess Hemamala during the reign of King Keerthi Sri Megawanna. Since then, the perahera had been held in all the past kingdoms - from Anuradhapura to Kotte eras.

The present spectacular Dalada perahera of Kandy combined with the four Hindu Devala peraheras originated in 1775, during the reign of King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe. The ruler was a 'Nayakkar' and as his wives were Hindus, the four Hindu Devala peraheras were added to the original Maligawa perahera, with the advice of the high priests of the Malwatta and Asgiriya Chapters.

The perahera is organised by the Diyawadana Nilame, the chief 'lay' head or trustee of the Dalada Maligawa, in keeping with custom.

According to Private Secretary of the Diyawadana Nilame, Sunil Rambukpotha, many officials of the Maligawa are involved in organising this magnificent perahera, which is a ten-day programme comprising two major parts, Kumbal and Randoli. The Kumbal perahera is held over the first five nights.

The Randoli perahera will take place on the other five nights. The grandest part of the Pageant is held on the last night - he fifth night of the Randoli perahera; the event which started with the four Devala peraheras would culminate with the Maligawa perahera.

All activities in the perahera are conducted according to traditional Kandyan customs and to-date most of the duties have been handled by those belonging to the particular castes which traditionally carried them out from ancient times.

For instance the traditional singers who walk alongside the casket carrying the Sacred Tooth Relic reciting 'Kolemura Kavi belong only to that particular caste; this has been the case for generations.

The perahera generally commences in late July or early August with the placing of 'Kapa' (Kap Situweema) where a branch of a selected tree such as jak is planted as a blessing for prosperity. This year's 'Kap' ceremony took place on August 2.

Rambukpotha said, "Then all four Devalas hold their Kumbal peraheras within the precincts of their respective temples for five days. During the Kumbal perahera, only a few streets around the temple premises are covered. After that comes the much awaited and spectacular Randoli perahera with all its glamorous traditions and customs."

Did you know that although there are various types of traditional drums in Sri Lanka, only the Kandyan drums such as the geta bera, dawula, tammettama, udakkiya and rabana are used at the perahera?

During the final days of the perahera, three special firings using firecrackers or a gun are carried out as signals. The first firing is to signal the commencement of the perahera, the second is to signal the placing of the Sacred Casket on the Maligawa tusker and the third is to signify the replacing of the casket in the Maligawa.

The whip crackers (Kasakarayas), as you know, are the first we see or 'hear' in the perahera; they announce the arrival of the perahera while also clearing the path.

They are followed by fireball acrobats (ginibola karayas). The Buddhist flag-bearers come next and the district flag-bearers, Vihara Devalagam flag-bearers and the Devala flag-bearers follow.

They precede the Maligawa officer on the 'Peramune Rala' (front officer) seated on an elephant.In ancient days, he carried the King's mandate to hold the perahera, but today as there is no king, he carries the register known as the 'Lekam Mitiya' which includes the proceedings of the Dalada Maligawa.

Immediately behind the 'Peramune Rala' comes a group of drummers all playing Kandyan musical instruments such as dawula, thammettama, bera and horanea, displaying real tradition. Their rhythmic movements and beats are mesmerising.

Then arrives the Gajanayaka Nilame (the chief guardian of the King's elephants), the second officer to travel on an elephant after the 'Peramune Rala'. He carries the silver goad (Henduwa) or Ankusa) which symbolises the authority of the office.

Then comes the administrative officer next to the Diyawadana Nilame who is called the Kariya Karawana Korala. He too comes on an elephant. He is surrounded by drummers and dancers.

Everyone knows what comes next. There is a hushed silence before the chants of 'Saadu, Saadu' reach our ears. The chanting gets louder and ripples through the streets of Kandy. Everyone strains to catch a glimpse of the illuminated and beautiful caparisoned Maligawa tusker.

A gaily decorated canope is held over the golden casket or the 'Dhathu Karanduwa' which is placed on the tusker. The Maligawa tusker is flanked by two other elephants.

Drummers and dancers follow the Sacred Casket and then comes the Diyawadana Nilame, in his traditional regalia(special clothes worn at official ceremonies) accompanied by the Vidanes. Weapons such as 'Mura Ayuda' and Sesath are carried as traditional symbols.

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