Tantirimale - the sacred site of fascinating vistas and peaceful serenity

by Ganga Ratnayake after a tour of Tantirimale

In the past, people went on pilgrimages in large groups. They would wake up in the wee hours of the morning and prepare and pack meals for everyone. They would also pack flowers for offering to the Buddha, in hand-woven baskets. Clad in white, the pilgrims would set off in buses to far away destinations, chanting pirith or singing Buddhist songs of the good old days.

We too, a group of 10, comprising family and relatives, set off on a pilgrimage recently, to a far away destination called Tantirimale.

After leaving Kandy, we passed through the cities and towns of Matale - Dambulla - Kekirawa - Maradankadawala - Anuradhapura - Elayapattuwa - Oyamaduwa and finally reached Tantirimale. It was 10.30 in the morning when we stepped out of the van at Tantirimale Raja Maha Vihara.

The entrance of the temple was adorned with a tall pandal full of relief motifs akin to lattice work. Right behind the pandal stood a whitewashed monument surrounded by four punkalas (symbol of abundance). After walking past the small shrine room with two Buddha statues, we arrived in an open area with a view of the entire landscape unfurling before us. It was a truly breathtaking spectacle where a seemingly boundless rocky outcrop sprawled as far as our eyes could see, transforming into rolling hills.

Enchanting landscape

The enchanting landscape of Tantirimale is encircled by Malwatu Oya from the north and east, Wilpattu National Park from the west and Mahawilachchiya Road from the south. The rocky outcrop spanning 250 acres is tucked in the midst of a dense jungle. As we stepped towards the sloping hill, we saw the soaring bell tower glistening in white against the deep blue of the sky, on the summit, next to the sacred Bo tree.

The grey-toned landscape was speckled with white blots buzzing about, as pilgrims clad in white from all corners of the island climbed up and down the rolling hills. We followed them along a footpath to the summit. The wind was gushing strong and hard as we arrived at the entrance of the sandy courtyard surrounded by a stone parapet. This wall overlooked a spellbinding panorama spreading as far as the horizon, with varying shades of green turning into blue and converging into an indigo line.

Resting in the midst of a golden railing was the sacred Bo tree, which boasts a long history. Following the advent of Arahat Mahinda Thera in the third century BC, bringing Buddhism to Sri Lanka, Arahat Sangamitta Theri was summoned to establish the Bhikkhuni Sasana (order of Buddhist nuns).

Arahat Sangamitta Theri who arrived with a sapling from the Sacred Bo Tree at Bodhgaya, India was welcomed by King Devanampiyatissa and was escorted by a grand procession. En route to the city of Anuradhapura, the procession stopped at Thiwakka Bamunugama (as Tantirimale was known). The Bo sapling was placed on the summit of the highest hill in Tantirimale and religious rites were conducted by the local ruler of the area, Brahmin Thiwakka.

Later the sapling was taken to Mahamevna Uyana in Anuradhapura where the planting took place amidst ceremonial rites. It is said that eight saplings sprang from this Bo sapling, known as Ashta Pala Ruha, of which one was bestowed to Brahmin Thiwakka. The Bo sapling was brought to Tantirimale in a procession and was planted on the summit of the rocky hill, where a sturdy stone parapet was built for its protection.

After performing religious rites, we slowly clambered down the sloping terrain, took a detour and reached the foot of the hill from the opposite side. Soon we came upon two fine relief statues – the giant reclining Buddha statue and the big Samadhi Buddha statue, resting on each corner.

The eight-foot tall Samadhi statue was flanked by stone pillars and relief sculptures, flaunting the graceful craftsmanship of the olden days. The 45-foot long reclining statue, soaring against the azure sky painted with soft cirro-cumulus clouds, instilled us with reverential admiration.

Rocky terrain

We turned around and proceeded uphill towards the other end where the jagged rocky terrain led us this time to the Stupa of Tantirimale. Surrounding the sandy courtyard of the stupa were several frangipani trees facing all directions. From here, we descended the rock and came upon a sandy path which took us to the big shrine hall some distance away.

The shrine hall’s white facade was made of ornate pillars capped with a dragon pandal which nestled a golden relief sculpture of Arahat Sangamitta Theri bearing the sacred Bo sapling. The stairway leading to the hall was flanked by the traditional guardian stones and the semi-circular moonstone at its foot. The interior of the hall, from the walls to the ceiling, was packed with vibrant motifs and murals depicting tales from the Buddha’s life and the advent of the Sacred Bo sapling. The finely crafted golden Buddha statue in the hall was also surrounded by murals of deities and scenes of nature.

Iconic structures

The vast rocky landscape of Tantirimale Raja Maha Vihara not only had these iconic structures, but was also replete with historical ruins of great significance. Beyond the hills next to the scenic lotus pond was the pothgula (library) of the olden days, with carved writings on the rock, believed to date back to the eighth century. There were also caves used by Bhikkhus of yesteryear, while some of these caves bore prehistoric cave paintings.

During the day, the vast rocky outcrop turns blistering hot along with the thin layer of sand that makes up the footpaths, yet the gushing wind coming from all directions sweep the heat and sweat away. The fatigue from climbing up and down the coarse grey terrain gets lost in oblivion when surrounded by the enthralling panorama. Thus, Tantirimale is not only a sacred site venerated by many, but is also a hub of the finest craftsmanship surrounded by historical ruins and lush greens.