Buddha Gaya unscathed

By Kalakeerthi Edwin Ariyadasa

“Hatred can never be dispelled through hatred. Hatred can be dispelled only through non-hatred. This is the truth eternal.”
- The Buddha

The tall spire at Buddha Gaya rises a sheer 55 metres into the sky, like a communication tower, transmitting the timeless words of the Buddha, far out into space.

The gold-painted image of the seated Buddha

This elegant, tapering structure was said to have been constructed by the pilgrim, Emperor Asoka the Righteous (273BC-232BC), to sanctify one of the holiest spots on earth. This land-space is sacred to mankind. Ascetic Siddhartha attained Supreme Enlightenment at this place, seated under the Bodhi Tree.

The spiritual annals of mankind record, with epic elan, the conquest of the horrid hordes of Mara (Death) by ascetic Siddhartha Gauthama, occupying His unconquerable asana (seat).

Sanctuary of liberation

Vanquishing those evil forces, the Buddha rose from His seat and spent seven weeks in the holy premises of Buddha Gaya, transforming it into an ever-blessed oasis and sanctuary of Moksha (Liberation).

The abominable throngs of vicious Mara (Death) had been eradicated by the Buddha. But, the ghostly traces of those routed swarms of evil, Mara (Death) may occasionally, fleetingly appear unexpectedly, at a least thought of venue.

Such a momentary, diabolical presence was felt at Buddha Gaya a few days ago. However, in that instance, the pathetic rabble that plotted to implement the wicked plans of vicious Mara failed miserably. The radiant compassion of the Buddha asserted itself with greater glory. That terror should find its way into this serene sanctuary was excruciatingly troubling. But, subduing that wickedness, Buddha Gaya emerged unscathed. It is a highly healing piece of good news.

Spiritual destination

Buddha Gaya is one of the world’s most sanctified spiritual destinations or holy tours. Buddhists and non-Buddhists alike visit the sites there.

To millions and generations of Buddhists, this is the holy of holies, where the ascetic named Siddhartha Gauthama sat down with an unflagging resolve to achieve Supreme Enlightenment and emerged Gautama the Buddha.

At Buddha Gaya, Buddhists celebrate that transforming inner moment, when the truth-seeking Ascetic transited to the Buddha.

I believe there is hardly any other faith, which celebrates the moment of a religious teacher’s inner Enlightenment.

The incumbent Bhikkhus of the temple, State officials of Bihar and the Governments of India and Sri Lanka have ensured the safety of devotees visiting Buddha Gaya. This assurance will be appreciated by the pilgrims as well as by the visitors to the area.

The responsible pronouncement by Sri Lanka’s High Commissioner in India was reassuring, inspiring and encouraging. The upshot of all this is: “Pilgrims and visitors need not have any qualms about travelling to Buddha Gaya.”

The Mahabodhi Temple complex at Buddha Gaya

For ages, Buddha Gaya had been a fascinating, spiritually spellbinding and enthralling destination for millions of travellers. The pilgrim will invariably be overwhelmed by the palpable sense of the ‘sacred’ one cannot help but feel, when approaching ‘The unconquered seat’ of the Buddha. You walk along an avenue of Bo trees that form a retinue to the main Sacred Bo Tree.

The road you tread before entering the sacred precincts teems with polyglot vendors and hawkers. Most of them are young and alert. They surprise you by addressing you in your own lingo.

They display an intimate knowledge of your land. They push their wares. You casually say that you will buy some on your way back from the shrine. That is where they corner you. When you return, they confront you. “You promised to buy on your way back. Now please keep your promise, as a good truthful Buddhist.”

You enter the enclosed area, and reach the main entrance of the Mahabodhi Temple. When you walk down, you come upon a segment of an Asokan Pillar, introduced here from another site - probably the place where the Ajapala Banyan Tree stood.

Main temple

Mini shrines dot the two sides of the flight of steps leading to the main temple. Along the corridors, devotees - both bhikkhus and laymen - practise a variety of religious rituals. Tibetan Lamas ritually pouring grains on metal bowls form a familiar sight.

The towering spire of the Mahabodhi Temple, bathed serenely in the morning sunlight, is a vision to remember. The pilgrim crosses a sturdy threshold of solid stone, to gaze upon the gold-painted image of the seated Buddha. This is the prime icon at this temple. The main holy treasure, of course, is the Sacred Bodhi Tree.

The Buddha image is the Bhumisparsha Mudra (the posture of touching the Earth, to aver, “earth is my witness”).

The sacred Bodhi tree is the main object of veneration for all Buddhists. In the presence of this holy tree, the devotee never fails to experience an exalted sense of spiritual ardour. Ascetic Siddhartha sat under this sacred tree, 2013 years ago, on the Vajrasana (The unconquerable throne). Today, this specific spot cannot be seen, as a railing encloses this unconquered seat.

Devotees go round this sacred spot, chanting. They are a multi-racial, multi-cultured lot, propelled by the common urge of devotion to the word of the Buddha.

Moved to tears

The profoundly dedicated devotee is moved to tears at this sight. The thought that, “Here I am at the very spot where the Supreme Enlightenment was attained,” makes it extremely difficult for him to hold back the tears of spiritual joy, that spontaneously well.

The site suffered only minor damage

During the recent mishap, the devotees did not suffer any serious damage. The highly treasured images in the main spire were totally unscathed.

A ‘colony’ of Buddhist culture has emerged in the vicinity of this sacred shrine. Major Buddhist countries including Sri Lanka, have established their temples.

In the slipstream of the averted disaster, we must remember the dedicated personalities who suffered untold privations to enable pilgrims to visit and worship this shrine in untrammelled freedom.

Anagarika Dharmapala is in the forefront in these efforts to make Buddha Gaya accessible to devotes, unopposed.

Sir Alexander Cunningham, the first Director-General of Archaeology in India and British archaeologist J.D. Beglar went well beyond the routine call of mere professionalism, in their dedicated efforts to endow these spiritual treasures upon the modern people. A vast service is being performed (and has been performed) by Indian archaeologists, imparting to their professional services, a humane and patriotic touch.

The recent disaster, though averted, should be heeded by all.

The spiritual aspects of Buddhism will continue to flourish for ages to come. However, the material heritage of Buddhism needs highly committed safeguards. Sri Lankans who frequently visit India on holy tours have to be given an in-depth awareness of these shrines. The wicked agents of Mara have alerted the whole world on the urgent need to cherish these unparalleled treasures, against these enemies of humanity.