The Nilu in full bloom:

The magical trek to the end of the world

By Mahil Wijesinghe

Having trekked many a time in groups through various forests, I decided to go it alone this time - a brief and quick walk in the wild to see Nilu flowers. With an interest in observing the rich biodiversity of Horton Plains, particularly its floral diversity, I, as a first-time visitor, made a short trip to the Horton Plains on a chilly day recently.

All along the rail ride from Haputale to Ohiya, mist threatened to spoil the trip. It was rainy and misty and even the majestic mountains in the distance were not visible.

I crossed the Ohiya railway station with a self-appointed guide, climbed a steep 11 km and walked into the rather welcoming office of the Wildlife Department to get permits to enter the Horton Plains National park. From the entrance, another 11 km drive to the main office was an enjoyable experience.

The vegetation all around was lush and green, and there were richly coloured flowers on either side of the road. My journey was to take me through the biodiversity reserve with its endemic flora and fauna, and home to several rivers, rivulets, waterfalls and pools.

The mountains and plateau kept us company. A herd of sambur crossed the path. A jungle fowl posed for me. The landscape kept changing with every turn on the road. Dense evergreen forest patches on mountaintops, open grasslands dotted with Maha Ratmal bushes and little streams and pools followed us wherever we went.

The skies were grey and the clouds came down to touch us. However, it was not just the beauty of Nature that fascinated us; it was also the absolute silence everywhere.

Beautiful scenery

We drove, stopping briefly whenever I came across beautiful scenery to capture in my camera until we came upon the main office.

The main office of the park was a beautiful building, once home to Englishman Thomas Farr, who was a keen fisherman and did much to develop the park, which was built in 1901. It became a rest house in Horton Plains and was named Farr Inn after Thomas Farr.

The landscape changed again and we saw open grasslands, but the mountains were still visible. This was the magnificent Horton Plains, one of the highland’s top attractions. The mountains got closer, as the canopy of the forest spread around me, almost embracing me in a carpet of green. In the middle of the green cover was a sea of pink, light purple and light blue flowers blossoming on both sides of the road. We stood there for what seemed like an eternity until the mist cleared.

The Horton Plains ‘season’ usually arrives in April with the blossoming of Binara, Maha Ratmal, Naga Meru Ala, Bovitiya and Kokmota. However, this time it had arrived early with the blossoming of the periodic Nilu (Strobilanthes) after 12 years. Of the 28 or more species of this flower, Horton Plains is the only home to some 20 varieties.

The constant drizzle and heavy fog touching the flowers and the dew drops spread over the petals added to the beauty of the Horton Plains.

Many in number, the pink flower, one of the finest of the Nilu species, stood conspicuously and competed with the other varieties in beauty. Every seventh to 12th year, the jungle paths of Horton Plains become a mosaic of pink, purple and light blue when Nilu bursts into bloom in a periodic splendour before it seeds and dies.

In paradise

Walking through the stretch of Nilu bushes in the Horton Plains, we felt that we were in paradise. These days, in Horton Plains, especially in Thotupola Kanda and a part of the Ohiya entrance, the striking beauty of blossoming Nilu with the vibrant colours of pink, light blue and purple can be enjoyed.

When these flowers are in full bloom, it is a great time for the insects and animals in the forest. Hiding through the petals of Nilu flowers, the bees broke the silence, making a constant buzz while a colourful jungle fowl was staggering around in a drunken stupor after an overdose of Nilu nectar.

Besides wooded slopes and Keena trees, open grasslands and the long stretch of forest, I believe that the charm of the Horton Plains lies in its misty cover. The mist almost worked as a soundproof wall, for the silence around was almost deafening. The narrow traffic-free tar road, which curves, crisscrosses, undulates up and down and becomes narrower, was a sight to behold.

The Horton Plains, which is 3,150 hectares in extent, was linked to the European world in the colonial era. Many British colonialists are commemorated by having landmarks named after them. In 1834, the wild region was named after a Governor of Ceylon at the time, Sir Wilmot Horton.

The famous Baker’s Falls at the park is named after Sir Samuel Baker, who earned his fame as the second-leading killer of elephants during the colonial time. In 1988, the Horton Plains was elevated to the position of a national park.

Horton Plains is an exhilarating experience. A land of many moods, it is a dreamy paradise for genuine nature lovers who look for the eternity of Nature.

The Nilu flowers in bloom	A body of water among the grassland	A bee attracted to the Nilu flower

A carpet of purple flowers	More beautiful flowers in the Horton Plains