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Sunday, 5 February 2006 |
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Choosing the right cologne Compiled by Chamitha Kuruppu Choosing the right cologne isn't just a matter of what suits your nose -- it's a matter of what suits your skin.
The way a particular fragrance smells will change from guy to guy, as a cologne's scent is the product of chemical reactions between your skin and the cologne's ingredients. So read on and learn how to find the best types of cologne for your skin. How to test cologne Before getting into the nitty-gritty of matching cologne with skin type, here are some basics for picking out cologne: Play the right notes - Each cologne is comprised of three "notes," or fragrances. While you're at the store, pick your favorite colognes, and spray a sample of each onto a blotter card (practically every fragrance counter provides these for free). Smell the cologne; this is the first note, or "top note"; essentially, it's your first impression of a scent. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and smell the card again. This is the middle note: it's the scent that takes over after the top note dissipates. Now, wait 45 minutes to an hour, and smell again. This is the "dry-down note" -- the longest-lasting scent and one that will hang on for three to four hours. If all three notes meet your olfactory standards, you're good to go. Cologne ingredients to avoid - Many types of cologne contain synthetic compounds. Some common ones that have been known to cause skin problems like rashes, hives, dermatitis, or eczema, as well as respiratory problems, include: 'Benzyl alcohol', 'Benzyl acetat', 'Benzaldehyde Limonene', 'Linalool', ' A-pinene', 'Ethyl acetate', and 'Acetone'. Unfortunately, cologne makers are not required to list their ingredients. You can, however, assume that most colognes' primary ingredient is ethyl alcohol (a.k.a. ethanol). This keeps the fragrance's oils together and serves as their delivery base. How to match cologne and skin type Both cologne quality and effectiveness are tied to a great range of factors, such as diet, environment, genetics, and behavior (stress, smoking, etc.). But the biggest x-factors are your skin type and PH levels. And the oilier (or dryer) skin is, the more potent (or weak) cologne can smell. Oily Skin - Skins high in natural oil represent more active body chemistry. This extra oil at the skin's surface can interact with cologne to create longer-lasting, more powerful scents. Alternately, too many natural skin oils (or perspiration) can merge with cologne to form an unwelcome odor. To guard against this, wear less cologne over the course of the day and opt for lighter fragrances, or types of cologne that contain less hints of musk and earth, and more citrus and floral tones. Cologne developed for summertime wear is the best bet for men with oily skin. Recommended brands: "Fahrenheit Summer for Men" by Christian Dior, "Kouros" by Yves Saint Laurent, "Tommy Jeans" by Tommy Hilfiger Dry Skin Cologne dissipates faster from dry skin, so it must be applied more frequently. However, because of the ethyl alcohol base, frequent reapplications run the risk of further drying out and damaging your already dry or sensitive skin. What a conundrum... With this in mind, dry-skinned guys should opt for "winter" colognes. These are stronger fragrances, formulated to last longer in drier, colder times, and thereby reducing the need for frequent reapplication. Recommended brands: "California North," "White Moss" by Acca Kappa, "Black" by Kenneth Cole Sensitive Skin. Arguably the biggest danger for the sensitive-skinned man is wearing strong cologne while wearing other potent skin products. If you're prone to rashes and acne, you're best off refraining from using cologne alongside strong aftershave balms and body sprays. The potential for allergic reactions is simply too great. When it comes to buying cologne for sensitive skin, follow the same rules for dry skin, but also look for colognes that list all-natural ingredients free from synthetic fragrances. Recommended brands: "Eruptable" by Volcanic Earth, "Gents Cologne Balm," "Polo Blue" by Ralph Lauren. Additional tips For optimal results, apply cologne to your throat, wrists, chest, or the sides of your neck (opt for one or two of these spots at a time). These are "pulse points" for heat, and they create the best interaction between cologne and your natural oils. Another popular tip is to spray cologne onto the back of your knees before getting dressed, as scents tend to rise. As a form of application, many men also prefer to spritz cologne into the air and then walk into the resultant mist, although most fashion experts caution against getting any cologne on your clothes -- so sticking to the first application method is best. No one should smell your cologne unless they're standing close to you. If you enter a room and people three feet away start sniffling, you're wearing too much. When in doubt, use as little cologne as possible. Women want to smell you, not Christian Dior. Smell as good as you look. Approach cologne as you would approach facial soap and moisturizers.
Take the time to find one that best matches your skin type, and both the
cologne and your body will smell and function at their best. |
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