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Sunday, 30 August 2009

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Imagine hundreds of elephants converging on the shores of a tank, paying no heed to the sun in their search for water, walking across the land with their steady, majestic gait, forming one of the most splendid spectacles of wildlife?

If this sounds like a scene from ‘The Lion King’, it may come as a surprise to many that it is something much closer to home. This is none other than ‘The Gathering’, an annual conference of over three hundred Asian elephants, which takes place in the North Central province of Sri Lanka during the mid-year dry season.

As the heat turns water holes into cracked patches of mud and parches the atmosphere, the elephants move on in search of food, water and shelter. Leaving from Cinnamon Lodge Habarana, I travelled about 45 minutes with my safari group to their chosen meeting place, the banks of the Minneriya irrigation tank, located in the Minneriya National Park, where they get together each evening.

Though a seasonal movement of the herd, it is not a migration in the actual sense of the word, as defined by zoologists - hence, it is famously known as ‘The Gathering’. The season lasts from July to October, each year.

The naturalist at Cinnamon Lodge Habarana had duly informed us that it would be a truly magnificent sight, but nothing had prepared me for the indescribable beauty of these majestic animals as they traversed across the land.

The gathering is a much hailed world phenomenon, and little wonder. It is said that nowhere in the world could one find such a high concentration of Asian elephants in so few a number of square kilometres, as during this time. As they are not blessed with the naturally air-conditioning, large-sized ears of their African cousins, the gathering takes place in the cool of the dusk.

They emerge from the scrub - first, in small herds of ten that usually band together with other herds and form larger groups, sometimes numbering over a hundred.

Not only are elephants the largest terrestrial mammals - they are also renowned for complex group dynamics. Of all species, the Asian elephant is famed for being highly social animals. Watching them at the reservoir clearly demonstrated this fact. The elephants obviously met, not just to fulfil the basic necessities, but also to flirt and mate! When travelling to the water, matriarchs go first, proving leadership and direction to the rest of the clan.

The adorable baby elephants are never left to fend for themselves and are always flanked by protective adults. Mothers encourage their off-springs towards the water, making sure that no calf is left stranded. Young males wrestle each other with their trunks, while adult bulls sniff the air to scent fertile females.

At the meeting, they drink and chat, bathe and play, greet old mates and renew acquaintances with elephants they have not seen in nearly a year. Definitely a regular party, albeit with friends of rather gigantic proportions!

The Cinnamon Lodge naturalist, Nilantha Kodituwakku, also gave us some details about the area. Providing the gathering with a meeting place is the Minneriya tank or reservoir, an ancient man-made lake constructed by King Mahasen in the third century AD. Before, these lowlands were farmed for agriculture by an ancient civilisation whose mastery of hydraulics was remarkably sophisticated.

Today, the ancient reservoir fills up during the North-east monsoon rains and gradually shrinks as the dry season claims the lowlands. But instead of running dry, as Nilantha, the naturalist explained, the receding water leaves behind a fertile, moist soil from which lush, nutritious grass quickly sprouts, attracting elephants in search of food from jungles as far away as Wasgomuwa and Trincomalee. The Gathering of Sri Lanka’s very own Asian elephants is a great spectacle!

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