Kandy Perahera:

Hill country’s dazzling pageant

By Pramod DE SILVA

As the rippling waters of the Kandy Lake reflect moonlight, the crisp night air is punctuated by the sounds of rhythmic drumming. It can only be the Kandy Perahera, that unique festival which has become a cultural hallmark of Sri Lanka. Kandy is synonymous with the Kandy Esala Perahera, which attracts thousands of visitors every year from Sri Lanka and abroad.

I have been fortunate enough to witness the Perahera for a number of years and my awe never diminishes, for this is a spectacle like no other. From the caparisoned elephants to the elegantly clad Nilames to the hundreds of colourfully dressed upcountry dancers, the Perahera never fails to rekindle faith in the finest cultural traditions of our land.

Moreover, the commitment of all those who organise and participate in this magnificent religious and cultural pageant, from the Diyawadana Nilame downwards, is nothing short of astonishing.

This year’s Perahera will take place from August 10 to August 24, Nikini Full Moon Poya Day. The Perahera will parade the streets in Kandy town during this period and will culminate with a Day Perahera.

History

The festival, an annual homage to the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha enshrined in the Sri Dalada Maligawa, dates back to the glory days of Anuradhapura, after the Sacred Tooth Relic was brought to Sri Lanka in the year 310 AD by Prince Dantha and Princess Hemamala.

Sri Lankan kings had the responsibility of guarding the Sacred Tooth Relic and whenever they shifted capitals, the Tooth Relic was also relocated. The Tooth Relic found a permanent abode in Kandy, the last Kingdom, where King Wimaladharmasuriya built the Sri Dalada Maligawa in the 16th century.

The Perahera has been held in its present location since the reign of Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe (1747-1781). The Main Viharas of Asgiriya and Malwatte Chapters play a leading role in aspects connected to the Perahera.

The highlight of the Perahera is the majestic Maligawa tusker carrying the ‘Karanduwa’ containing the sacred relics, followed by a large number of caparisoned elephants and dancers. This is the iconic image we see in numerous illustrated depictions of the Perahera and one which is always mesmerising. This and other aspects of the Perahera have changed little over the centuries, as these are traditions that have withstood the test of time.

The only thing that technology has perhaps changed is that people around the world can see the Perahera in real time, on television and on the Web. While nothing can equal ‘being there’ as the Perahera passes just a few feet away from you, TV and the Web have enabled more people to experience its wonders.

Yet, the proliferation of media coverage is not always healthy. Diyawadana Nilame Nilanga Dela Bandara cites many instances when announcers used wrong terms, in Sinhala and other languages, to describe certain parts and aspects of the Perahera. He recently urged the media to refrain from such practices and help the Sri Dalada Maligawa to preserve the finest traditions of the Perahera for future generations.

Just like other cultural traditions, the Kandy Perahera faces several challenges. Domesticated elephants, especially tuskers are dwindling while traditional arts and artistes are also slowly fading away. These two factors have to be addressed in the medium-term to ensure the success of not only the Kandy Esala Perahera, but also of other such events.

Kap Situveema

The first tradition of the Perahera is the Kap Situveema where a young tree is cut and planted in the compounds of the four Devalayas - Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini.

The main Perahera procession actually consists of five separate Peraheras organised by the Sri Dalada Maligawa, Natha Devalaya, Maha Vishnu Devalaya, Kataragama Devalaya and Pattini Devalaya and they take part in the Perahera in that order.

The Randoli Perahera is the more magnificent of the two and if you only have a day (or rather a night) to see the Perahera, it is advisable to wait for the final night of the Randoli. (Randoli is derived from the Sinhala term for palanquins used to carry royalty).

The Randoli Perahera is led by the Whip Crackers, who announce the advent of the Perahera by cracking their whips.

The Peramunerala comes next, on the first elephant, carrying an Ola manuscript called the Lekam Mitiya. The drummers are next, playing a variety of drums. Next in line is the Gajanayaka Nilame. The Kariyakorale, responsible for all the ceremonies of the Maligawa, walks next.

The Maligawa Tusker, the most anticipated sight of the Perahera, then comes along majestically. A canopy is held over the Tusker carrying the Karanduwa and Paavada, a pure white cloth, is spread as the Tusker progresses. The Karanduwa is placed on the Maligawa Tusker by the Diyawadana Nilame.

Glamorous event

There are lines of dancers who follow the Tusker and it is then the turn of the Diyawadana Nilame to walk by gracefully. The Peraheras of the Devalayas then follow. It is a feast for the eyes right to the very end, witnessed by thousands of pilgrims and tourists who line up on either side of the Perahera route.

The end of the pageant is marked by the traditional ceremony of Diya Kepeema, (water cutting) at the Mahaweli River at Getambe, just a few kilometres from Kandy, along with the Day Perahera.

A traditional report on the successful conclusion of the Perahera was presented to the King in the ancient days. This report is now presented to the President at the President’s House in Kandy, where the artistes who take part in the Perahera also receive commendations.

The Dalada Perahera has enthralled islanders and visitors for centuries and it will continue to do so. The earliest record maintained on the Dalada Perahera was by Chinese Pilgrim Monk Fa-Hien, who visited Sri Lanka in the fifth century A.D.

“By the side of the King’s Palace is the Vihara of the Buddha’s Tooth, several hundred feet high, brilliant with jewels and ornamented with rare gems. Above the Vihara is placed an upright pole on which is fixed a great padmaraja (ruby) jewel..... The Tooth of the Buddha was always brought forth in the middle of the third month.

Ten days beforehand the king grandly caparisoned a large elephant on which he mounted a man dressed in royal robes, who could speak distinctly, and the man went round beating a large drum, describing the life and the virtues of the Buddha, and announcing to the public; ‘Behold, 10days after this, Buddha’s Tooth will be brought forth, and taken to the Abhayagiri Vihara.

Let all and each, whether monks or laymen, who wish to amass merit for themselves, make the road smooth and in good condition, grandly adorn lanes and byways, and provide abundant store of flowers and incense to be used as offerings to it.”

Robert Knox, an Englishman who lived in the court of Kandy for many years as a prisoner during the time of Rajasinha II (1636-1684) also wrote about the Perahera. Writers will continue to express their awe of the Perahera for centuries to come. Without any doubt, the Kandy Perahera is one of the most famous and spectacular religious and cultural festivals in the world. It is unrivalled and unparalleled for the reverence with which it is conducted and the artistry associated with it.It is an event that one should see at least once in a lifetime and possibly more, for the wonders of the Kandy Perahera shall never cease. Up close or on television, make sure that you witness the Perahera this year, starting August 14.