Colombo in 1890s as seen by Wilhelm Geiger:

The romantic poet with penchant for Ceylon Observer

By Amal HEWAVISSENTI

Yes. He is probably the foremost German scholar with a measure of inspiration and is well noted for his genuinely classic exploration of Sri Lankan culture and language. To live in a strikingly exotic country surrounded by groves of coconut trees and to expose himself to the fairytale backdrop in such a country was his ruling passion. Yet this 'proclivity' was in perfect contrast to his father's intention to teach him linguistics. Latin, Greek and guarantee his personal security in future. He appears, for the first time, in Sri Lanka under a politically and socially transitional phase where Sri Lankans were beginning to rise from centuries of foreign battering. However, he is very careful to colour his accounts of the lifestyle of Sri Lankans with a broad, multicultural perspective.

Wilhelm Geiger

In the foreword to his epic work "Ceylon - Tagebuchblatter und Reiseerinnerungen" (sketches and memories of Sri Lanka), he lets loose a torrent of personal pride over the reminiscences of his visit to Sri Lanka. Here he frankly acknowledges that he has developed a bond with the people and surroundings of the country and that he has oriented himself to a life under the 'tropical sky.'

Geiger seems to have been powerfully gripped by the mysterious and hallucinatory effect of the fairy tale backdrop of coconut groves of Sri Lanka on disembarkation. There is concrete proof to show that he had been adequately acquainted with Sinhala language prior to his first visit. He boldly says that the same degree of passion that moves an anthropologist when he views the classical and historical remains of Italy and Greece is felt by one who wanders through the ruins of Anuradhapura.

This is a point blank refusal of Neanderthal attitudes and racial prejudice that are prototypical of a westerner's description of an Asian country. On his visit to Colombo, a reporter from 'Ceylon Independent' goes to him and Geiger's answer to one of his questions was "I know Sinhalese to some extent. I could better read Sinhala Language than speak it." One of the prominent aspect of his unfailing interest in Sri Lanka is his limitless fascination for the Sri Lanka's enviable positions overlooking the leafy expanse.

Blend of colours

Geiger's literary expression remains wide awake to the vibrant green of the lush vegetation that stands on either side of the Colombo-Ratnapura main road. As he disembarks the ship Sochsen on Sri Lankan shores, he gets his maiden glimpse of the life and culture of the country.

His poetic outburst on the beauty of the vegetation on either side of the road to Mount Lavinia takes on the form of a realistic portrayal of an impressive jungle by a painter. "On my way to Mount Lavinia, I, for the first time, caught sight of the unbroken presence of jungle that filled my mind and heart with immense pleasure.

I was, for a moment, astonished by the spectacular view of the massive bunyan tree at a junction with its leafy umbrella housing quite a wide area. The surroundings were covered with a blanket of dark green that differs notably from jungles in the western world. On either side, trees filled with red or yellow flowers grabbed my curious and keen eye... The houses had hedges of red chrysanthemums and bushes of plantain with yellow fruit..."

"Towering above everything are the thin coconut trees that are very common whenever I fix my eyes on. Anyone who set foot on Sri Lanka can never evade the combination of colours that best fits a painting. I glimpsed a few mud and wattle houses thatched with cadjans shown momentarily through the jungle. I watched a mother combing the black hair of her daughter and a group of girls with pots on their hips, at discussion at the well. They reminded me of a similar sight in rural areas of Germany. On my train journey, I momentarily espied Europeans' houses coming into and out of sight through the coconut groves. The residents of these white washed bungalows were enjoying the breeze in the verandahs and their children were gamboling under the trees.

Unwelcome guests

On his arrival at the Mt. Lavinia Hotel, Geiger saw a scantily clad Indian magician playing tricks on a rock on the beach. It was here that Geiger generalise the theory that, what Sri Lankan spectator expects from a magician does not differ greatly from what a westerner expects from him and the western magician employs quick and smart techniques to perform a trick.

He is wrapped up with happy sensations during his short stay at the Grand Orient Hotel, Bristol Hotel and Mt. Lavinia Hotel that stood in close proximity to the harbour. The Grand Orient Hotel, says Geiger, is the hotel with the topmost popularity with the foreigners.

As for the snakes in Colombo, Geiger said. "I must say that I have not seen life-threateningly poisonous snakes live in Colombo. Once I came across a rat snake crossing the main road while I was strolling along a lane in Mt. Lavinia. On another occasion, I was astonished to observe the speed of a green, harmless Ehetulla near the Colombo Museum. One day, while I was on friendly chat-ups with a European lady in her bungalow, in Cinnamon Gardens, I chanced to see a killed cobra brought before us by the servants. However, I know no European who has succumbed to a snake bite..."

"Situated close to the harbour is the area called Kotuwa (Fort) with a labyrinth of lanes. Apart from the hotels, this area is well scattered with business centres of Europeans that look like granaries or stores to the distant view. The open shops fascinate the visitor with a baffling array of exotic items. These include, elegant table mats embroidered with gold and satin, famous Rampur shawls, decorated carpets, jewellery and items made of sandalwood, ebony and brass... The visitor is attracted to varied valuable stones, python hides or teapoes kept on display.

On the main road running towards Galle Road are government buildings. The clock tower erected on a small elevation, penetrates its bright light to the sea at night. One can clearly see the governor's mansion just opposite the clock tower. The road to the right of Kotuwa (Fort) runs towards Cinnamon Gardens. While the road to the left runs straight to Pettah where hustle and bustle is in full swing. In Pettah native people live in small, cottage like houses. On either side of the road stand an unbroken chain of market places (bazaar). I do feel almost choked by the smoke, dust and heat...

Ceylon Observer

Geiger's true description of Cinnamon Garden concentrates on the light and luxury aspects of Europeans' houses with wide verandahs and home gardens studded with luxuriant vegetation. According to him, most of the Europeans, live in the Cinnamon Garden. He vividly and graphically portrays the 'pastoral beauty' of Cinnamon Garden that produces breathstakingly magnetic scenery.

He views the clock tower of the Fort and two churches towering majestically over the green expanse of coconut groves and the blue sea beyond. Out of the variety of Sri Lankan Press, Geiger has developed a special propensity for reading Ceylon Observer that reported broadest circulation among the different layers of readership. (The editor to the Ceylon Observer was John Ferguson who had penned a number of scholarly research on Sri Lankan culture and its people.)

Frightened children

Geiger's mind goes back to a memorable incident that involved a group of children playing by their houses in the jungle of Wellawatte. "One day I was going to a temple along a path that lay in the jungle. I met three naked boys playing by the side of the road. They were petrified to have seen a white man approaching them because they had never before seen a white man.They fled to the nearby jungle as though they were fleeing from the approach of a demon. The youngest boy fell on the ground and he was crying for life. Others were peeping at me behind the trees. I became friendly with them by giving them some coins.

Geiger views Galle Face, as highly picturesque. "Past Galle Face the green strip of trees runs parallel to the main road and the sea. The well-planned gardens, coconut groves and white bungalows appearing intermittently provide extra pleasure for the visitor. Small houses and boutiques stand on either side of the road. I like the active life in the bazaar and open places. On my strolls, I often see people who seem to be trouble free and light in their attitude to life. Some chew betel and others smoke. Some jabber and laugh. They seem to be unaware of the didactic theory that 'time is gold.'

It gives me a great pleasure to see carpenters, potters, blacksmiths and other craftsmen absorbed in work in front of their "cottages." A barber is getting ready to shave the head of a man squatting by him. Other customers were drowsily waiting for their turn. Customers are seen to drive a hard bargain on fruit, dried fish, rice or tobacco.

Small children almost naked are playing with sand by the road. There are more than enough carts drawn by horses running across this colourful city. Colombo is famous for cart accidents. Even the newspapers carry a separate column to report cart accidents. The bullock cart is solely used by native people."

He is highly impressed with the accomplishment of Sinhalese in keeping their hair, teeth and whole body in perfect cleanliness. The Sinhalese show extraordinary care for their hair with fine oil treatment methods.

With only one notable exception, he has never seen young men make off-colour remarks to young ladies and Geiger says that it is a praiseworthy trend though it is the other way round in Germany!

Wilhelm Geiger is truly a passionate lover of Sri Lanka. He shows a marked sorrow on his departure from Sri Lanka. "I cannot hide the pain oozing from my eyes now. Dark clouds are curling above coconut tree tops of Modera. Beside the clouds is a charming rainbow. The moment to say goodbye to this land of sun is approaching."

(Based on the selected translations from "Ceylon - Taqebuchblatter und Reiseerinnerungen" by Wilhelm Geiger)