The cup that cheers

In neighbouring India, “a storm in a tea cup” is brewing over a decision to name tea as the country’s National Drink. India’s Planning Commission Deputy Singh Ahluwalia said recently that tea would be declared India's national drink by April next year.

The decision will also celebrate the life of a pioneering tea planter who was hanged by the British for taking part in the rebellion of 1857. Maniram Dewan is celebrated for his role in a plan to throw the British out of Assam in 1857 and for introducing commercial tea production to the region.

However, his statement has already created a debate, with lovers of other drinks such as lassi, milk and coffee defending their favourites. Lassi afficiniados have pointed out that theirs is a local drink whereas tea is an “imported” drink grown locally. They also say that lassi is more beneficial to health.

Here in Sri Lanka, we might not be able to stay oblivious to these developments. India and Sri Lanka are the world’s leading growers and exporters of tea. The beverage has become a household item in both countries. Most people cannot start their day without a hot ‘cuppa’ either mixed with milk or on its own. And they yearn for one at ‘tea time’ in mornings and afternoons. Some people even need one before going to bed.

“National drink”

Tea has become synonymous with both India and Sri Lanka. The words Darjeeling and Dimbula are well known among tea drinkers the world over, with the location of the tea bushes imparting a unique flavour and aroma to a steaming cup of tea.

The Sri Lanka Tea Board and other Government authorities must study the developing scenario in India. Tea is almost a “national drink” in Sri Lanka as well, but it will be up to the authorities to decide whether tea should be granted that status. This will, of course, give rise to a similar debate as witnessed in India. But the focus of my column is not on this question per se, but rather on the quality of tea provided to the local consumers and several other matters.

Even accounting for the vagaries of weather, Sri Lanka's March tea output was 27.21 million kg. Production in the first quarter dropped 6.7 percent to 73.18 million kg from 78.40 million in the corresponding period last year. Granted, the bulk of these tea stocks will be exported, leaving a comparatively lesser quantity for local consumption.

All tea lovers know that teas can be classified into several grades depending on their quality such as Broken Orange Pekoe 1, 2. In the bottom of this ladder, we find the ‘fanning’ or tea dust, the lowest quality. It is these fanning that often find their way to local consumers, marketed under various brand names as high quality Sri Lanka tea. Blended teas (local tea mixed with cheap foreign tea) are also offered. But the higher grades of Ceylon Tea remain out of reach of most Lankan consumers.

This is grossly unfair by local consumers. We make the world’s best tea. Unfortunately, not many locals can afford to drink it. In a country that without a doubt produces some of the finest teas that that world has ever known, the locals have to drink dust.

This must change. And the ‘tea’ (so-called milk tea and plain tea) served at most wayside cafes leaves a lot to be desired. Some Lankan tea companies have attempted to rectify this anomaly to some extent, but more should be done. The Sri Lanka Tea Board must take the lead in this regard. It does have a sales outlet in Kollupitiya, but its teas should be more widely available as a first step either through its own outlets in main towns or through third party vendors.

Other government run outlets such as Laksala can also be co-opted in this exercise. If it already does not have a variety of tea that is generally affordable to the masses, it should introduce one.

The expertise of the Tea Research Institute could be obtained for this purpose. Small scale private tea growers can also be encouraged to sell some of their good teas locally through supermarkets. Some of them already sell high quality teas at affordable prices at their own estates, but they need a distribution network that covers the entire country along with technical assistance for packaging and marketing.

The authorities should also do more to promote good tea among local consumers by publicising its health benefits. It has been credited as helpful for heart heath, fighting cancer risk, reducing stress and even for weight loss. A recent study in the US found that drinking three cups (or more) of either green or black tea a day can reduce the risk of stroke by 21 percent. The health benefits associated with tea come from its high levels of antioxidants such as polyphenols, flavonoids and catechins, which fight free radicals in the body and prevent healthy cells from being harmed.

Health benefits

Research has found that catechins help reduce cholesterol, decrease blood pressure and prevent the risk of a stroke. Other studies have found that drinking a couple of cups of tea a day may also help protect against certain cancers.

The authorities should disseminate such information via the media and tea companies too could advertise the health benefits of their products. One tea manufacturer is already doing it, singling out flavonoids.

If a national drink competition is held, tea will face many competitors such as herbal drinks (kola kenda), certain fruit juices and even coffee.

But it is tea that remains ‘king’ among drinks in Sri Lanka among the masses despite being a ‘foreign’ drink introduced by the British.

It will remain the number one export crop and we should everything possible to maintain its status quo as the best tea in the world. But it is only fair that local consumers too should enjoy a good quality ‘cup that cheers’ - one that they can be proud of.