Mysore Dasara, the acme of India pageantry

by Kalakeerthi Edwin Ariyadasa

“For those who believe, no explanation is necessary. For those who do not, no explanation is possible.
-Old proverb

The orient is justly celebrated for its soul-elevating array of breath – taking pageants. Our own ‘Resplendent Isle’ – Sri Lanka, is globally renowned for its magnificently panoplied periodical pageants, that stir the sense of wonder and amazement, of the spectators, moving them towards a quiver of awe, tinged with adoration. Our pachyderm-filled perahera in Kandy, occupies a high position, in the pageants of global-scale.

But of all those oriental pageants of legendary and fabled majesty and overwhelming glory, the undoubted acme, to my mind, is the ten-day Dasara spectacle in Mysore.

Appeal

My forthright assertion may engender a trace of doubt within you.

Nevertheless, I cannot help but assure you, that you must witness the Dasara pageant yourself, to believe it.

The compelling appeal of Mysore Dasara, is the outcome of a whole series of highly significant adjuncts.

The core-origin of the pageant is an age-old myth of a divine victory, over an evil scourge-symbolised by Mahishasura demon. Goddess Chamundeshvari vanquished the ferocious demon.

The annual 10-day pageant Dasara celebrates this triumph and is part of the cult of Goddess Chamundeshvari.

In consequence, this is a sacred myth, deeply embedded in the folk-culture of the land.

In addition, the royal patronage extended to the pageant over the centuries, has infused into it a regal splendour.

Over and above that, the pageant has a long history. In 2013, what was performed, was the 403rd edition of the pageant.

This extensive tradition has given to the Dasara pageant a hallowed sacred touch.

Crowning glory

But the crowning glory of it all is the fabulous, sprawling palace of Sri Kantha Datha Narasimharaja Wodeyar, the incumbent Maha Raja of Mysore. This palatial miracle forms the backdrop of the pageant.

All these elements cumulatively enrich the Dasara pageant, catering astonishingly to the mass aesthetic.

I was part of the delegation to the Dasara pageant present on the occasion of its 403rd edition, on the invitation of Swamiji Sunil Das of the spiritual staff of the royal palace.

The leader of our delegation was Ven. Daranagama Kusaladhamma Nayake Thera – head of the Buddhist TV channel.

I am grateful to the Nayaka Thera for the opportunity given to witness the wonder described as Dasara.

Palace complex

The imposing palace complex which seems a glorious edifice, bodily planted in the modern era from the glorious ages of India’s legendary Maharajas, overwhelms you with its ornate super-luxury. We had the privilege of visiting the palace premises, witnessing even certain sections that are not generally open to many of the visitors.

Of the multiplicity of treasures held by the palace is the golden throne, created with 80 kilograms of gold.

The royal events linked to the Dasara pageants included the special Durban (royal court) at which the king blesses some royal officials.

Here the elephants, horses, camels, cows and vehicles are also brought before the ruler who occupies a throne on a raised dais.

Climactic point

The elaborate pageant needs special recounting. The pageant reaches its climactic point on the tenth day which is described as Vijayadashami (the 10th Victorious Day). On that day the pageant moves along majestically with the leading elephant bearing the effigy of Goddess Chamundeshran. The image is created with 750 kgms of gold.

For 13 consecutive years, this sacred task of bearing the effigy of the goddess had been performed by the 55 year-old elephant Balarama. But, this year around, the responsibility was transferred to a new-performer, the 53-year-old Arjuna. There is an element in this elephant-story that will certainly intrigue Sri Lankans.These sacred elephants are not only caparisoned – they are painted as well.

Painted elephants

The painting of elephants has been done by an art teacher named Nagalingappa R. Badiyer for 11 years. He paints his jumbo clients for hours. The legs, the ears, the tusks and even the tails are carefully painted, utilising a whole series of motifs. While this painting job is being done, massive elephants remain docile, without displaying even a trace of impatience.

The heavy, sacred golden image is lowered into the back of the elephant, with the help of a winch.

The elephant bearing the effigy moves along with an alluring poise.

During the Dasara nights, the main palace and the other palaces are fully illuminated.

When the devotees view the palace and its surroundings from the hill where the temple of the goddess is located, the whole region seems one vast stretch of light.

Recitals of classical musical programs continue throughout the pageant nights. A universal decorative item utilised during Dasara season, in the young banana plant. Even vehicles are decked with these plants.

State elephants

In the Mysore Dasara pageant, the elephant are given a high-profile stature. Those elephants associated with the pageant are described as Pattada Ane or state elephants.

An elephant that has been in the service of Dasara has been honoured by naming a city-gate after him.

The picturesque pageant is celebrated as a national event. The whole state observes an official holiday on the final day of the Dasara.

If Dasara is a unique ceremony, it is partly because of the traditional royal patronage provided for this pageant.

We had the good fortune of gaining an audience with The Maharaja. In the course of his conversation with us, he enquired about our country, displaying an intimate awareness of Sri Lanka.

He said that he would visit Sri Lanka after his scheduled visit to Mauritius in 2015. The impressions of the legendary Mysore Palace have to be celebrated at some length.