Buduruwagala:

Devotion inscribed in rock

Story and pictures by Mahil Wijesinghe

With Vesak looming on the horizon, I thought of heading to one of the better known, but nevertheless less visited sacred sites in the island. Wellawaya may be a little town in the awe-inspiring mountain ranges of the Uva province and you may be tempted to pass the area on your way to more interesting places further afield. But if you take the time, the area is laden with many awe-inspiring archaeological spots.

The most remarkable sight here is the Buduruwagala rock, a popular destination for both local and foreign tourists in Sri Lanka. It literally means the ‘rock that depicts the image of the Buddha’. Located ‘off the beaten track’ in the heart of the jungle off Wellawaya town, it is possibly one of the most photographed sites in the island. This unique archaeological site lies in a forest setting six kilometres south of Wellawaya on the Tissamaharama road.

The rock-cut images of Buduruwagala are believed to be the finest examples of Mahayana sculpture in Ruhuna Kingdom. There is lush vegetation all around, complemented by the breathtaking landscape of the Buduruwagala mountain range.

Canopy

When you enter the forest, the placid tank of Buduruwagala is dramatically revealed through an opening in the forest canopy. The skeletons of dead trees and various varieties of birds’ nests on the trees in the tank instill a sense of serenity to the moment.

The water, with its shallow marshy tracts is the perfect feeding and wading habitat for a wide variety of birds such as cormorants, ebbs and hawk eagles. When the drought prevails in the area, herds of elephants can be spotted in the vicinity of the Buduruwagala tank.

During my stay at the Buduruwagala shrine, I experienced a serene atmosphere which was truly breathtaking. I saw groups of pilgrims rest under huge trees for a while, many of them meditating in the stillness of the jungle under the compassionate eyes of the Buddha.

Here we see a unique assembly of seven figures in high relief, depicting the highly developed artistic skills of 9th or 10th Century sculptors of Ruhuna. At 51 feet the central Buddha statue is perhaps the tallest in Sri Lanka and has been carved out of the living rock. It is flanked on both sides by two groups of three figures. The eminent archaeologist, Prof. Senerath Paranavitane believed that this Buddha was a depiction of the Dipankara Buddha.

Sensuous

To the right of the Buddha statue is a carving of the Bodhisatva Avalokiteswara draped in a long garb, wearing a turban and a waist band. To his left, is the beautiful and sensuous Tara Devi, believed to be his spiritual consort strikingly winsome in the thrice bent posture. Her body curves towards a very narrow waist and flares out again into shapely hips with her bosom in bare.

Legend has it, that Tara Devi was born of the tears wept by Avalokiteswara for the sufferings of the world. On the right of the Bodhisatva figure is Suddhana Kumara, his constant companion.

To the left of the central Buddha statue are three more figures. At the centre is believed to be a carving of the future Maitriya Buddha and on either side of him are Vajirapani and Manjusri. There is a deep dent in the centre of the rock in the shape of a huge clay lamp and it is believed that a flame used to be lit here.

An elderly person at the temple, probably a villager told me that when he was a small boy, he had seen oil leaking from the rock cavity and that he used to anoint his head with this oil. At present, no oil leaks from this spot and the only evidence of oil having leaked is a blackish colouration.

Observing the figures, one can understand that ancient sculptors had used colour plaster to cover the rock statues to achieve a more refined and artistic value to the carvings. Even today, looking at the Bodhisatva statue at the right side of the Buddha statue, one notices a portion of white plaster in the stone image, as well as another small piece of plaster on the main Buddha statue. Here on the sheer face of this rock we see a configuration of carvings related to Mahayana belief.

Seeing the gallery of rock carvings on the isolated rock in a silent forest, I was impressed not only by the serene beauty of the carvings but also by the enchanting greenery of the forest, the clear waters and shadows of dead trees in the Buduruwagala tank.