Helga's Folly: Bohemian.... and how!

Whatever you may think of the explosion of colour, texture, history and art of Helga's Folly, you must agree that 'folly' is not the word to describe the successful establishment that exists today. In fact, Helga has taken a building that was woefully neglected and created a haven for those looking for something a little different, those looking not for a hotel but a home, not for strict schedules but a laid back, individually tailored stay. Most of all, it is for those looking for whimsy and a place that doesn't take itself too seriously.

The relaxing welcome beverage is not any old mug and tea-pot affair, but the full silver service set presented to the strains of classical music - colonial-style hospitality in fantastic surroundings. Photographs just don't do justice, as it is impossible to gauge the atmosphere from these, or to look closely at details, which is what you are invited to do in a house where everything is on show.

Early morning is the best time to immerse yourself in the heritage and collected possessions of the de Silva family, with only the sound of sweeping to distract you. Picture after picture,line the walls, each with a family significance and many with explanations scrawled in Helga's distinctive hand.

Drinking in the atmosphere and sheer number of items packed into the colourful rooms, you begin to get a sense of the long history and artistic bent of the family, though a number of circuits are needed to take it all in.

The common rooms make their way through a spectrum of colours, from the scarlet dining room featuring a bold temple style mural that sprawls across the walls, to the blue dining room with its huge mirrors. Hanging from the ceilings are stars, baubles, luminous twists and snowflakes, matching the colour and theme of each room and a forest of candelabras complete with Helga's signature dripping wax, provide dramatic lighting should the mood arise.

The walls are crowded with artifacts from Indonesian puppets to antlers and from articles to striking art work. Lampshades throughout the house are perched at jaunty angles as if they have been casually tossed into place, and rainbows of gold-hued sari-covered cushions give an exotic touch to the sofas. Each room has a different feel and a host of objects to admire or study, so that there is always something to occupy a restless mind or a curious eye.

Through the main accommodation wing with its frescoes adorning every spare door and wall you will find the pool, perfect for guests in search of sun drenched frolics. Nymphs wait silently for the moment when the sound of laughter and fun will animate their garden again, and a fantastic creature reclines before the pool to welcome sun seekers to their world. Even by night it's a magical place to be, as Paula Yates found out when she indulged in a midnight candle-lit swim.

The bedrooms themselves are like a cross between a colonial house and a gothic student's retreat. Bright sari materials cover the four poster beds and hang in place of curtains, the ceilings are painted with bright colours that appear to drip down the walls like melted candle wax, and the humble mosquito net is refreshingly black to add a touch of drama.

Amidst these modern touches of style are sturdy old colonial pieces of furniture that stand proudly in contrast to the colour and energy of their surroundings. The bathrooms feature toilets covered in magazine pictures and I was immediately concerned that maybe this symbolised some kind of disdain for journalism, but thankfully Helga reassured me this was not so. The colourful toilets do provide a focus point, though, for those private moments when plain tiles just won't hold one's attention!

In the spirit of the personal touch, dinner began with 'cocktails and canapes' downstairs with the other guests as if we were friends of the family invited over for a special meal. Actually the 'cocktails and canapes' may sound very British but they had a typically Sri Lankan twist in that the cocktail was made with arrack, and the canapes were actually miniature 'patties'.

Following our schmooze with the other guests we were led to the balcony for a candlelit dinner overlooking the twinkling lights of Kandy, dancing on the lake far below. For us, the romance was increased ten-fold due to the fact that the room boy had been assigned to baby-sit our sleeping three-month-old. The quiet was blissful as we indulged in a four-course dinner under the stars. In the garden below, life-sized statues stood like silent sentinels watching over the house and the sense of magic in the air made me feel that they just might go for a stroll around the grounds in the moonlight.

The Folly wouldn't be the Folly of course without Helga. She is a tour de force, and the woman behind the creativity. Referring to herself as 'the bat in the attic' she swoops down during dinner to introduce herself to all of her guests and ensure that she gets to meet everyone who stays in her home.

As we finished off our deliciously creamy homemade ice-cream teamed with honey bananas, a message came from our room that a certain someone was a screaming blue murder, and so we retired for the night.

Breakfast was a real treat, taken at our own leisure as Helga insists it is a luxury every guest must enjoy at her place. A whole tray off fresh fruit, a basket of homemade rolls and toast, lashings of butter and a distinctively punchy marmalade made up a fine feast. Helga herself swears by the 'boozy marmalade' they produce to put a bit of life into her guests first thing in the morning! Once I was feeling relaxed and satisfied.

I realised that a cooked breakfast was still to come and was presented with another generous spread on a heated plate. In the name of journalism I worked my way through the second half of the feast and literally rolled out the door!

It is very difficult to come to a conclusion about the Folly that everyone can identify with, because it is a place that inspires extreme reactions. Some are charmed by the explosion of creativity and Bohemian atmosphere, while others are immediately appalled and overwhelmed by what they see as over the top and tasteless.

One visitor was actually so frightened by the paintings and dripping candle wax that she left quickly, convinced of some link with the occult! Helga believes that her home attracts such as interesting crowd because it consists of people strong enough to absorb its overwhelming nature.

What is clear, though, is that there is no other place like Helga's Folly in Sri Lanka, and maybe in the world. It is a home that documents its past for all to see and share, and through its laid back nature opens a door to the creation of more wonderful memories to be recounted in the future.

Catherine Ramp

(Courtesy: Travel Sri Lanka)