Glimpses of Trincomalee’s past

The interesting article titled “Tracing the ancient history of Sampur, written by D.G.A. Perera that appeared in the ‘Sunday Observer’ of 10.9.2006, has prompted me to write this article. The reasons for it being that Trincomalee’s vital importance lies in its strategic harbour, the Naval base and other installations pregnant with economic values, like Prima Flour Co., Tokyo Cement Co, together with the Indian Oil Tanks as Sampur which was re-captured recently by our valiant armed forces could have been used as a launching pad by the LTTE for potential attacks with artillery and mortar.

Chequered history

In tracing the glimpses of Trincomalees past, I have delved into them by taking excerpts from our ancient chronicles in the ilk of Mahavamsa, Culavamsa, Pujavaliya together with other references culled from old books written on Ceylon’s past by Robert Knox, Phillipus Baldaeus, James Cordiner. Emerson Tennet and the latest from the ‘Ceylon Traveller - a Studio Times publication - 1974 & 1983.

During the early years of valiant Dutugemunu king’s period, when he emancipated Lanka from Damilas’ invasions, he is believed to have built many Viharas and monasteries in Gokanna - the archaic name for Trincomalee as alluded to in the chronicles, like Mahavamsa, Culavamsa, Pujavaliya. There had been a plurality of synonyms for present Trincomalee then known as Gokanna. Among them are Gonagama, Gonagamakapattana.

This bewitching sea side resort of Trincomalee whispers of its long history and legend everywhere. Here it is redolent of Prince Vijaya (the progenitor of the Sinhalese race and the first king of ancient Lanka) and his exploits around this ancient kingdom of Gokanna. His successor King Panduvasu Deva of the 5th century B.C., is said to have founded the imposing rock sentinel over the harbour of Trincomalee also popularly known as Swami Rock. While during the Dutch/British times it was called as Fort Frederick.

During King Mahasena’s period (3rd century A.D. famed as one of the greatest tank builders), he had constructed many tanks in this Gokanna region. The first stupa he had built on it then was called Gokannagir (Fort Frederick). During that period of time this region was a populous village named Gokannagama.

The colossal king who emerged as one of the next dynamic tank builders was Prakaram Bahu - The Great (A.D. 1153-1186). This magnificent and just king had even exploited the precious waters of the great Maha Weli ganga and its tributaries which became the lifeblood of the farmers (and with the Accelerated Mahaweli Project). With the succession of King Vijaya Bahu II (1186-87) who ruled over Polonnaruwa, he expelled the Chola invaders and fortified Trincomalee, as well. After his noble rule, Trinco which was the bastion of the Sinhalese kings for over 1500 years went into oblivion.

Queen of the harbours

Trincomalee has been acclaimed over the Global compass, as one of the finest natural harbours of the world. Hence Trinco was fondly named as the Queen of the Harbours of our resplendent isle. So is the Mahaweli ganga which is the “Queen” among our rivers which debouces its ruddy waters at Kottiyar Bay (Trincomalee). This Kottiyar Bay from time immemorial had been the safe haven for anchoring sailing ships bringing princes, princesses and nobles from India, followed by later conquerors like the Portuguese, Dutch, British (even the Danes and French for a short time). Even for barter trade sailing ships were anchored at this Kottiyar Bay.

Robert Knox in his ‘Historical Relation of Ceylon’ (1681), has referred to Kottiyar Bay as ‘Cottiar’. In it, it is mentioned vividly when Kottiyar Bay was a sea port of trade with the concurrence of the King-Rajasinha II (1620-1687). In fact the ship ‘Anne’ in which both he and his father Robert Knox (Snr) sailed was anchored at this ancient port of Kottiyar Bay on 19th November 1659. Knox’s description of this port of Kottiyar Bay where sailing ships had come on trade is thus: “Formerly the king had the benefit of the trade of two Ports Cotiar and Portolone (Puttalam), into each of which used to come yearly some twenty to thirty sail of small vessels which brought in considerable customs in”.

Mahaweli Ganga

As the Mahaweli Ganga has its estuary at this Kottiyar Bay, it is nothing but fitting to recall the ancient names that were alluded to Mahaweli ganga as quoted from the Chronicles like ‘Mahavamsa’, ‘Culavamsa’, ‘Rasavahini’, ‘Pujavali’ thus :- Maha Valuka Gangawa/Maha Kandara Nadi/Maha Ganga.

Other names by foreign writers

Foreign writers had spelt the name of Trincomalee in different ways. Reobert Knox in his Historical Relation of Ceylon (1681), had this vivid account of Trincomalee: “....being with the sea coasts on its east side Trenkmalay and Batticlow. The main river of all is called Mavelagondaa, runs thro the whole land northward and falls into the sea at Trinkimalay”.

Tennet in his ‘Ceylon’ Voll II has described fascinatingly thus: “(1859) - of all rivers, the most important is the Mahaweli ganga - the Ganges of Ptolmoy rising in the south near Adama’s Peak and flows into it by a number of branches near the noble harbour of Trincommali”.

James Cordiner in his “A Description of Ceylon” (1807) boasts of its bewitching account thus: “The harbour, the safest and most spacious on the confines of the eastern ocean, whilst proves to be an acquisition of intrinsic value, presents at the same time the richest prospects, the communication with the sea being, in almost every direction, entirely concealed, it resembles a beautiful and extensive lake. Hills diversified by a variety of forms, and covered with luxuriant verdue, rise steep all round, completely enclosing the capacious basin. Many winding creeks, in which the water becomes tranquil, afford pleasing pictures and a few ornamental islands dispersed through the wild expanse, add to the picturesque appearance of the scene five hundred ships of the line may enter with it with ease, and ride at anchor, without the smallest inconvenience. The harbour is accessible at all seasons, but for one half of the year mariners give the preference to Black Bay, it being sufficiently safe and affording a more ingress.”

Phillipu Baldaeus in his A True And Exact Description of The Great Island Of Ceylon (“1672) had referred to Trincomalee as Tirnquelemale”.

A popular saying coming down the ages of time about Trinco’s impregnability is amplified by these glorious words: “He who commands Trincomalee/commands Sri Lanka”! The veracity of this virtuous dictum is aptly portrayed as during World War II (1939-46). The British Admiralty had its strategic Naval Head Quarters based there under the command of the war hero Adimira Viscount Mountbatten. Its harbour even commanded The South East command under him.

Etymology

The mountain topography around Trincomalee is surrounded by three mountain frontiers having the shape of a rough cone in three sizes, while malai means mountain. When these two words are coined into Tamil meaning malai, thus giving the meaning of three hills in the shape of three triangular hills. Hence its derivation as Trincomalee. The Hindus take the etymology to the three Kovils which in ancient times were said to have existed, adjacent to each other on a hill (malai). In Tamil literature it is referred to as ‘Conamalai’ which is alluded to ‘Swami Rock’ as it is dedicated to God Siva. This Kovila is also known as Sri Koneswarm Temple/ Kovil on which Fort Frederick stands built during British times. Sri Koneswaram Temple is surrounded by another quaint legend reminiscent of king Ravana. According to this myth, it appears that when Ravana’s mother was ailing he wanted to remove this rock temple. As he was heaving the rock, God Siva perceived his nefarious motives and God Siva by his miraculous powers made Ravana to drop the sword. As a result of this impact, a cleft was created on the surface of which is seen to this day. They call this cleavage as ‘Ravana Vettu’ - meaning Ravana’s Cleft.

Foreign invasions

During the 16th century A.D., when the Portuguese conquistadors were the ruthless masters of our maritime provinces, they left a trail of destruction in destroying most of the sacred Buddhist temples and Hindu Shrines. They destroyed the Koneswaram temple and other Buddhist shrines in its environs. Besides the Portuguese, the Dutch, British ruled over Trincomalee, while the Danes and French held it only for a very short time. By 1656 A.D. the Portuguese draconian rule ended. But this port had been the bloody battlefield of many warring nations.

When the French took possession of Trincomalee was only short lived and lasted only for one year from 1782-83.
In January 1782, it was captured by the famed English Admiral Edward Huges. But after eight months, the French Admiral de Sa Saffron forced the British garrison to surrender. After the Peace Treaty in 1784, Trincomalee was under the British rule. In 1795, it finally fell into the hands of the British. The foundation of the fort was initially laid by the Danes in 1620, but they were later expelled by the Portuguese.

This Fort Frederick was constructed in 1803, after the then Duke of York. Fort Frederick where stands the present Sri Koneswaram Temple, besides its sanctity is well-known for a tragic episode that was said to have occurred during the Dutch regime. From the edge of this cliff, that juts into the placid vast ocean, a love-lorn maiden was to have flung herself over the cliff, when her jilted lover sailed over the ocean, as she was left in the lurch by him.

The victim was Francina Van Rhede - a daughter of a Dutch official. A Stone Pillar is said to have been erected on this tragic spot as a memorial to her. This exact spot where this awful suicidal act happened is called as ‘Lover’s Leap’.