Peter Genovese/ The Star-Ledger
Tanya and Sumith De Silva had two good reasons for opening Sigiri on
Route 27 in Edison. First is Sigiri, which may be the State’s only Sri
Lankan restaurant, is a short drive from Little India, the stretch of
Indian restaurants, markets and stores on Oak Tree Road in Edison.
Second is the corporate office of SriLankan Airlines is even closer,
by the Metropark train station.
“I work for my wife, so she can always find me,” Sumith De Silva
said, laughing. Actually, the two, both native Sri Lankans, own the
Edison restaurant, while Sumith De Silva and a partner own a Sigiri in
New York City. Sigiri is named after Sigiriya.
 “It is difficult to explain to people what is Sri Lankan food,”
Sumith De Silva said. “Many think it is Indian food. The best way I can
explain it is a cross between southern Indian and Thai food.”
Sri Lankan and Indian food employ the same lineup of spices —
cardamom, cumin, coriander, cloves, ginger and more — but in different
mixtures and grinds.
“We may roast half (the spices) and not roast the rest,” De Silva
said. “Then we mix that up. It all means a different taste.”
The menu asks patrons to specify their “spice level” — mild, medium,
spicy or very spicy. I tried several “very spicy” dishes and didn’t
require medical assistance; your threshold may be different.
The menu includes curries, soups, stews, rice specialties and
devilled grill specialties, shorthand here for spicy grilled dishes. The
devilled grilled prawn studded with prawn, green and red peppers,
tomatoes and onions, practically breathes fire, and is bewitching
besides.
The chicken curry lacks spicy substance, but the fish curry is a
winning combination of tender kingfish and rich, satisfying stew. The
Sri Lankan crab curry is the meal that can be eaten as a soup, without
rice, or a curry dish, with it. It’s tasty either way.
My three dining companions — Alison, Brooke and Brian — weren’t crazy
about the beef stew but I found myself taking seconds, and thirds.
The pol (coconut) roti didn’t seem especially coconutty, but I liked
its thick, puffy heft.Another Sri Lankan staple is string hopper —
strings of rice-flour dough squeezed through a sieve and then steamed.
The chicken version was a group favourite. “A balance of sweet and
spicy,” Brian said.
The chicken lamprais — rice, chicken and vegetables wrapped in a
banana leaf and baked in the oven makes for good dining theatre — and
even better meal.
The chicken mullagathany also known as mulligatawny. The vegetable
soup and the fish rolls.
Best item sampled? The lamb black curry at least the spicy version,
takes no prisoners. It is peppery to the max, with juicy, tender meat.
One whiff, and you’ll be transported to the Spice Island. Call it the
best takeout dish I’ve had this year.
Other items include fish stew dry fish curry mixed fried rice (with
chicken, beef, shrimp and vegetables, and assorted Sri Lankan desserts.
“What we are trying to do,” Sumith De Silva said, “is introduce Sri
Lankan food to the locals.”
A cross between southern Indian and Thai? I’d call Sri Lankan food,
and Sigiri, an eye-opening, spice-filled, sensory experience.
NJ.com
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