The changing face of Galle Face

by Kishani Samaraweera

In a city sorely lacking in the public spaces, Galle Face Green, also known as Galle Face, is a vital green lung. The 12-acre ribbon of grass between the busy Galle Road and the Indian Ocean has long been the most popular recreational space in the city.

Beloved by families, kite flying children and lovers seeking a moment alone, on weekend evenings the narrow rectangle is thronged with a cross section of Colombo’s people. Every religion, ethnic group and social class is represented as city-dwellers take monetary refuge from their busy lives.

Given the central importance of what is effectively the city’s main square the Sunday Observer went for a stroll and presents a slice of life on Galle Face.

Dining at Nana’s

Galle Face is justifiably famous for its street food, and where dining on the strip is concerned there’s one clear king-pin – Nana’s. Though there are now three stalls bearing the name they all reduce to the same origin story Mohideen Sulaiman Farook who started off selling green-gram on the Green in the 70s and then branched out into the seafood and meat dishes the stall is now famous for.

The seafood kottu-roti and devilled dishes are reputed to be among the best in the city and as an added bonus Nana’s is opened late - from 4 p.m. to long after Midnight making it a popular stop for night owls.

“We will serve our customers even if it is past the usual time. Because they are the most important people for us. We live because of them,” says T. Najeem, the current owner of Nana’s.

While the amenities aren’t exactly 5 star - with simple plastic tables and little in the way cutlery, the edge of the ocean location and standout platters of char-grilled chicken and spicy seafood more than compensate.

The service is pretty attentive too – so we recommend a plate of devilled cuttlefish kottu with a side of flame grilled tandoori-inspired chicken. A must try.

Prawn vadai (Isso vadai) is the most popular snack in the area. This consists of a deep fried chickpea patty (vadai) topped with prawns and served with chopped onions and spicy gravy. In addition to the classic prawn Galle Face’s vendors supply crab vadai – topped with a tiny deep fried crab and pokuru vadei.

The basic prawn vadai starts at Rs.50 and makes for a light and savory snack. On our visit we counted over 20 street carts in operation, most selling prawn vadais.

Kites

With the continuous breeze, flying kites is yet another activity which attracts a big crowd to this place. Especially children. Given the spacious setting at the Galle Face it is an ideal place for an interesting, low cost and rewarding experience for many.

The colorful kites are in different shapes. Some are massive. They are in the shape of dragons, snakes, butterflies and all types of birds priced from Rs.100. After the sun goes down, the sky above Galle Face is filled with colorful kites.

Ganga, who has been selling kites and other items at the Galle Face Green for over 15 years says that they get fairly a good income during Vesak and school holidays.

“There are more than two hundred people selling different types things in this place. It is not like we get a good income all the time. But we are grateful that we have a job,” she said.

New beach

Towards the harbour area there is a place in which people have started to bathe and swim. If you visit Galle Face in any time of the day you would see people bathing there. Whether it is allowed or most importantly safe to use for bathing purposes is a question.

Department of Coast Conservation and Coastal Resource Management, Chief Engineer, Coastal Works Division, D.C.Jayanetti says that no permission is usually given to swim or bathe in such areas.

“Sand is filled in that particular area due to construction of the harbour. However, it is not an unnatural phenomenon.”

She said although there is no coastal erosion of a serious nature, coastal erosion is happening along the Galle Face stretch.