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In search of one world on the wings of SriLankan
Airlines :
Bangkok - the city of temples
Lionel Yodhasinghe reporting from Bangkok
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Simplicity is their identity: Bhikkus including the Chief Monk
of Sawan Arom temple at Bangbo, Klong Dan, Samutra Kan in
Bangkok Venerable Damrong Yassodharo Thera take morning meal |
Bangkok, the city of temples is the capital of Thailand. It has been
put on the international tourist map for its hospitality, exotic food
and entertainment.
As in the case of any ordinary person in the world, many Sri Lankans
are under the impression that Bangkok is a land of pleasure, but the
values and wealth of religion, culture, royalty and simple way of life
in this Royal Buddhist kingdom runs deep into a long history of
Sangharajas, kings and queens, princes and princesses and the common man
of simplicity.
The first apprehension that any traveller gets of a foreign country
he or she expects to visit is the way its local diplomatic mission
treats the visitor when he applies for a visa. We journalists have many
bitter experiences with some of the Embassies in Colombo, but the
Colombo Office of the Royal Embassy of Thailand has treated its
customers with utmost cooperation and goodwill.
The strong relations between Sri Lanka and Thailand go back to
several centuries and history records that such links were very much
stronger during the period of ancient kings, and such relations had
broken after the country was invaded down by Portuguese about 500 years
ago.
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Riots of colour led by golden yellow adorn Thai Temples |
During the rule of cruelty, Portuguese invaders destroyed the
Theravada Buddha Sasana in Sri Lanka, tortured and killed Buddhist monks
and the followers of Buddhism. They demolished every place of Buddhist
worship and even forcibly converted Buddhists to Christianity.
According to historical records, after the Buddhist ordination
lineage in Sri Lanka was ended by Portuguese persecution, Thailand came
forward to gift Buddhism to Sri Lanka after the Portuguese rule lasted
for over 250 years.
The story of ties between the two countries is interesting. Some 700
years ago, Theravada Buddhism was introduced to Thailand by a Sri Lankan
monk on the invitation of a Thai King Ramkhamhaeng.
The Thera preached Dhamma in Sukhothai, and that was the beginning of
Lankavamsa in Thailand which is known as Lankavamsa even to this day.
The Thais later got an opportunity to be grateful to Sri Lanka and the
then King of Thailand Boromkot sent Thai Bhikku Ven. Upali to Sri Lanka
to reintroduce the higher ordination tradition here.
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Temple Pathom Chede, the tallest Chetiya in Bangkok |
Later to respect this Thai monk Ven. Upali for his commitment for the
revival of Theravada Buddhism here, the tradition he introduced was
named after him and his country which is the major ordination in Sri
Lanka today, Siamopali Maha Nikaya or Siam Nikaya.
Currently, Buddhism is the state religion of Thailand. The king is a
devout Buddhist, and he even spent some years as a monk, so the people
venerate the king. Buddhism is promoted and protected by the
constitution and the King is a symbol of the nation.
According to the latest statistics, out of the total population of
about 73 million, approximately 93 percent of Thais are Buddhist. There
were about 32,000 monasteries, 266,000 monks and 90,000 novices in the
country.
There are innumerable monasteries in the jungles where monks go for
further meditation and every household maintains a shrine room in front
of their house, and every village has its own temple.
Adjacent to every temple big or small, there is a market, and some
temple dayakas run small workshops and other small industrial plants in
the temple premises and employ villagers. In these workshops, they make
art and craft or jewellery related to Buddhism.
Among them are pendents, rings, bangles, Buddha statues, statues of
gods and so on. In this manner, the monks are actively involved with the
daily lives of the people of Thailand and help the State to raise the
social economic and educational levels of the people. Buddhism and the
Sangha, therefore, are firmly connected with the lives of the laymen.
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Hospitality of Sri Lankan in Thai style: The ticketing counters
of the SriLankan Airlines at the Swarnabhumi international
Airport. |
Though there are a lot of temple dayakas ready to meet the needs of
the monks and the temple, Thai Bhikkus still follow the Buddha's way of
fetching food. It is an overwhelming spectacle in the dawn to see lines
of barefoot Bhikkus, holding begging bowls and strolling along the
streets of any city going begging in the morning which is still rare
occasion in Sri Lanka.
However, every Buddhist home, despite their busy household chores
prepare some meals to be offered to the visiting monks because Buddhism
is still considered above royalty, and believe it will bring them peace
and plenty in life. The ancient kings including the present king have
been committed to develop Thailand to what it is today.
The vision and leadership of the present king has driven the country
from its traditional system to be on par with other developing nations.
One would definitely guess the dimension of the king's vision soon
after one lands at the Swarnabhumi international airport, for its
vastness, facilities and the splendour of oriental architecture. The
rising fly-overs and sky bridges over marshy lands in Bangkok are some
indications of the right guidance and leadership of the king towards the
national edifice which would no doubt be the pride of Thailand.
Next week: Strong links between Temple and society.
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