TREKKING TO GOD SAMAN’S ABODE

God Saman it is said likes to teach life lessons to mere mortals by playing on their expectations when they make trek to his abode atop Adam’s Peak. And as thousands climb the 2,243-metre pinnacle this Sri Pada season, which got underway on Unduwap Poya, one day before Christmas, expectations are no doubt very high. And the question that begs to be asked is what lessons will they learn from God Saman?

The ‘holy footprint’, for which the mountain receives its Sinhala name Sri Pada, remains tethered to the beliefs of the various faiths. Buddhists believe it is the Buddha’s, Hindus say it is Shiva’s, Muslims claim its Adam’s and Christians attribute it to Saint Thomas. There’s no real desire to truly verify ownership, for whoever stepped down from Heaven to leave this footprint in stone, the pilgrims leave their own, more transitory, footprints as they chant Saadu, Saadu and make their way to the monastery atop the peak.

The peak is a perfect pyramid and offers a spectacular sight, especially at dawn, and is visible far across the island. According to folklore “When night ends and it’s finally the time for Surya Divya Rajaya (the name given to the sun considering it a deity) to give light to earth he starts it by worshiping Sri Pada.

He comes from far beyond and bows his head and worships Lord Buddha’s Siripathula (footprint).”

A scientific explanation will shoot down this belief, but the folklore provides that required magical feeling, which is part and parcel of the Sri Pada experience.

Though Sri Pada was described by travellers early in history, the first to report the existence of the footprint was the Arab, Soleiman in 851. The first European to describe the peak first hand was Daniel Pathey, a German serving in 1648 as a soldier in the Dutch East India Company. However, climbing the 2,243-metre pinnacle as a pilgrimage is traceable to the days of King Nissankamalla, and was deemed a highly dangerous endeavour due to the inhospitable jungle cover.

Things have of course changed over time with improved roads and railways, enabling the pilgrims to fulfil their mission with much ease, and even a degree of comfort. Today, pilgrims have the choice of starting their journey from Nallathanni, village of Maskeliya, on the eastern slopes above Hatton, or from Ratnapura, southwest of the peak. Most prefer the Hatton route, so did this writer.

To many devotees, the trek up is a celestial experience, but sadly for many of today’s youth it has become a fun excursion, a venture that tests the endurance of a person and his ability to keep going. It is this irreverence that also sees them abusing the surrounding environment without a qualm, discarding their garbage with no thought of what they are doing to a place that begs for reverence.

Reaching the peak is an arduous task and has many literally giving up halfway through the climb. But determined lot do reach the top, and it is believed God Saman grants pilgrims what they have in mind.

The outline of Sri Pada emerges in the soft light of dawn and, as the sun climbs, its triangular shadow sharpens, then shrinks slowly toward the base of the mountain. The breathtaking 360-degree view reaches from the Indian Ocean to the hills in Nuwara Eliya. Far below, the town of Hatton emerges like a cluster of doll houses amid reservoirs and wewas (tanks). From time to time, the interplay of rain, clouds and sunshine creates multiple rainbows. The peak does indeed feel like the abode of a god, high above the petty problems of the mundane world.

(Text and pix by Ranga S. Udugama)