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Underneath the waves

by Chamitha Kuruppu


A large school of surgoen fish

Blue striped and Bengali snappers

Colourful coral polyps

The Third Reef is full of different types of Rays

The sea, once much loved, is now seen as a monster. The December 26 tsunami forever tainted the deep bond between the deep blue sea and the people living in the pearl of the Indian Ocean.

Following the tsunami devastation many people have unpleasant memories of the sea. But not Darshana Jayawardena, who talks about the joy and excitement it brings to him. When thousands of people talk about the dreadful noise that came from the sea in December, its the silence of the sea he cherishes the most.

Jayawardena, a Management Consultant by profession took to diving three years ago and today it has become both his passion and past time.

People are curious to know about other worlds and are amused by the stories of outer space and aliens. But many don't realise, what a wonderful world the sea is hiding underneath her, says Darshana. Sri Lanka is rich with hundreds of amazing dive sites. The country has over 200 famous ship wrecks dating back to the colonial era.

"There are beautiful Coral reefs, under sea caves and rock formations all around our island and most of these locations are enriched with fauna and flora," Dharshana says enthusiastically. According to Darshana diving in Sri Lanka is cheap in comparison with other countries. Unlike other Asian countries the sea is considered clean and unpolluted due to low shipping traffic and small coastal populations.

He says many tend to dive in the West Coast that includes Negombo, Beruwala, Bentota, Kosgoda, Hikkaduwa, Galle, Matara and Tangalle from November through May. From April through October the most popular diving site is in the East Coast (Trincomalee). From Mid March to Mid April the great barrier reef of Sri Lanka is busy with many foreign and local divers.

Speaking through experience, Darshana rates the Great Barrier Reef in Kirinda as the best dive site in Sri Lanka. The Basses, derived from the Portuguese term 'Baxos' for reef, is an approximately 40 kilometre long reef starting just two kilometres southeast of Kirinda with the Great Basses light house and extending right below Kumana and ending with the Little Basses light house.

Darshana guarantees that the Basses have plenty of Groupers, Grey Sharks, Tuna, Angelfish, Rays, Giant Morays Wrasses (Napoleons), Snappers and millions of other denizens of the ocean.

The Basses are full of strange sandstone reefs carved by the strong tides. " This is an amazing place rich in Beauty, Marine Life and with a firm foothold in history. You haven't dived until you dived the Basses," Darshana claims.

This fabulous location has three ship wrecks. The 40 gun frigate Daedulus sunk on July 02, 1813 in Little Basses, Flute Overness sunk in 1704 and Alette Adriana sunk in the 1760's in Great Basses. Another famous dive site in Sri Lanka is the Third Reef off Negombo. "Once, while we were diving, we noticed a dark cloud manifest under the boat and suddenly disperse with great speed. Then we realised it was a small school of dolphins.

They were playing; appearing and disappearing above the surface periodically," Darshana recalls. Kiralagala, Hikkaduwa in Darshana's view is another spectacular dive location in Sri Lanka with a formation of several rock pillars, Some clustered together and some far apart. " As you sink slowly and silently down alongside a precipitous rock wall, you will see it covered with beautiful corals; both of the soft and hard kind. Domino Damsels and Basslets flutter away amidst Angel Fish and Butterfly Fish. It's hard to tear your eyes away from this colourful treat and peer into the deep ocean. But you must, for otherwise you will miss the schools of Trevally, Fusiliers, Red Tooth Triggers raining upon this rock formation," says Darshana.

There are over 200 famous ship wrecks around the coast of Sri Lanka. According to Darshana many of these ship wrecks have been located and the search continues at present, using advanced resonance scanning technology. "Wreck diving in Sri Lanka is an amazing experience not to be missed by any diver," Darshana emphasises.

The Conch is one of the best and most easily accessible wreck dives in the country. Located off the coast of Hikkaduwa, a large area in and around the wreck associated with nooks and crannies are filled with marine life.

Apart from the interesting remnants of the wreck such as oil barrels, transmission parts, the relatively intact parts of the great hull, the Conch is full of fish life such as Snappers, Angles, Porcupines, Puffers, large Titan Triggers and Giant Morays.

The Irrakandy Ship Wreck is an unknown wreck off the coast of Nilavali, Trinco. The wreck lies beneath 12 M of shallow seas about 40 minutes by boat from the Nilavali Beach Hotel.

Darshana who has dived to the site many times says that the propeller and the engine remains of the vessel indicate that this was a coal steamer most probably of British origin. The ship, which is hardly recognisable has created enough nooks and crannies in the wreck to attract a plethora of ocean denizens including large Groupers, Morays, Octopus Shoals of Snapper and Trevally.

"Local fisherman say that the 'Kappiththa' still watches over the wreck in some form and manner. Often as a large Long Fin Bat Fish (Platax tiera) which we were fortunate to capture on film. This is a curious creature. It inspected all the divers one by one and disappeared into the gloom," recalls Darshana.

However, to grasp these amazing dive experiences, one should have Advanced Open Water training or Deep Diver Specially training or be accompanied by a qualified Dive Instructor.

Most of the reputed dive centres offer certifications up to Instructor level. The Open Water, Advanced and Rescue Diver courses may take about 3 to 4 days each at costs ranging from Rs.25,000 to Rs. 40,000.

Most of the diving centres in Sri Lanka are run by PADI certified professionals with international experience. Darshana assures that the country is well equipped with Emergency Management, which is why there has been no fatal dive accidents in the last 10 years.

According to Darshana, over 90 per cent of the dive centres were completely damaged by the tsunami in December. But all of them are now back in operation.

Darshana has launched a website www.divesrilanka.com to provide a one-stop guide to both local and foreign divers. "The country need a sound mechanism to promote diving especially among foreigners," he points out. "It is unfortunate that some 'unprofessional divers' damage coral reefs and rare marine species by using dynamite.

People should stop hunting these precious and rare species for food and sport," says Darshana. "Following the recent tsunami most Sri Lankans are frightened of the sea. People should realise that they are responsible for the devastation. If they had not damaged the natural barriers, coral reef and mangroves the sea would not have caused such a devastation," says Darshana.


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