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The milky white dagoba in Kataragama


Kiri Vehera

The Dalada Perahera has now drawn to a close. Although it is the grandest and most famous procession in Sri Lanka, the Kataragama Perahera is another important event in the island's annual cultural diary. This grand event, of which the Pada Yatra that we have already featured is a part, is held in the sacred city of Kataragama.

The predominantly Hindu festival, conducted every July-August, contains some novel features such as kavadi dancers and fire walkers. It ends with a glittering perahera where elephants, chieftains, drummers and up country and low country dancers play a leading role.

Kataragama, the stage for this festival, is in the southern extremity of Sri Lanka, and is one of the most important religious sites in the country. Dedicated to God Skanda, it is an important site of pilgrimage for Buddhists and Hindus. However, it is also visited by people of other faiths.

When we talk about the historic city of Kataragama, one place we cannot forget is the Kiri Vehera. It is one of the five most important sites of worship in the city along with the Maha Bodhi, Kataragama Devale, Sella Kataragama and Vedihitikanda. The dagoba is also described in the stanzas as one of 16 most important pilgrimage sites in the whole country.

The 95 feet tall Kiri Vehera has a circumference of 280 feet. It is milky white in colour, hence the name. It is situated near the famous Menik Ganga.

There are many theories as to the origin of the dagoba. Some believe it was built by Parakramabahu the Great of Polonnaruwa during the third century BC, on the request of Queen Subadra. Some think that it was first built by a local ruler named Mahasena on a site made hallowed by the Buddha's visit.

Some believe that the vihara was originally known as Magul Maha Seya and although there are no clues as to who built it, the bricks used in the construction bear Brahmin inscriptions which point to King Mahanaga's reign during the third century BC. Some records even date it to the first century BC.

The Buddha is believed to have paid a visit to Kataragama during His third trip to Sri Lanka. The Kiri Vehera is said to enshrine the golden seat the Buddha sat on during His sermon, a lock of His hair and the royal sword (magul kaduwa) with which Prince Siddhartha cut off His hair at the Great Renunciation.

The place is also linked to the reign of Dappula I, Vijayabahu I and Kavantissa, the father of King Dutugemunu and Saddhatissa. However, the Kiri Vehera went into ruin with jungles covering much of the area after the Chola invasions of Polonnaruwa in the 12th century. A renovation programme was carried out at the Kiri Vehera in 1912 and again in 1970.

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Kirinda's legendary attraction

Another area close to Kataragama which attracts tourists, especially locals, is Kirinda. It is a small but beautiful village on the southern coast of Sri Lanka. It has a beautiful beach and a Buddhist shrine built on a huge round rock. The area is also close to the Great and Little Basses reefs which provide some of the most spectacular scuba diving in the country.

One of the most well-known attractions in Kirinda is the statue of Queen Viharamaha Devi. This is situated on the spot where she is said to have landed after being set adrift on the sea from Kelaniya. The rock temple mentioned above is largely believed to be the site of her landing.

Most of you must be familiar with the legend of Queen Viharamaha Devi. She was the daughter of King Kelanitissa who ruled Kelaniya in the days gone by. The king punished a monk once by boiling him alive in a cauldron of oil. It is said that the gods, angered over this cruel deed, made the ocean rush inland and flood the land. Soothsayers said that if a princess is sacrificed to the sea, the raging waves will stop. The young princess paid the ultimate sacrifice to atone for the sins of her father. She was placed inside a beautifully decorated boat and set adrift on the sea.

As soon as she was set off, it is said, the sea suddenly turned calm again and the water receded. However, the king was very upset, the queen was wailing and the citizens were very angry over the loss of their brave princess. They all started heaping the blame on the king.

Meanwhile, the young princess finally reached the shore, at a spot known as Dovera in Kirinda. This was in the southern part of the country, then known as Rohana (now Ruhuna) which was a quite prosperous area during this era. A fisherman who first spotted the boat is said to have run to King Kavantissa, who was the ruler of the area, and informed him about the cast- away princess. The Thupavamsa says birds who first spotted the floating boat informed the king.

The princess was brought before the king in a procession. And the king, on hearing her story, was so impressed that he decided to marry the princess who had been so brave and patriotic to sacrifice her life for her country. As she reached the shore at a spot close to the Lanka Vihara, she was named Viharamaha Devi. The place where she landed is marked with an inscription laid there by Prince Mahanaga.

She bore the king two sons, Dutugemunu and Saddhatissa. The former is one of the greatest heroes of our country, while Viharamaha Devi herself is recognised as a great heroine of our motherland.

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