Mapalana Ella, a captivating cascade of water

Sri Lanka’s fourth highest waterfall:

By Mahil Wijesinghe

A close view of the cascading water of Mapalana fall

Waterfall, Nothing can harm me at all My worries seem so very small With my waterfall I can see my rainbow calling me Through the misty breeze Of my waterfall
- Jimi Hendrix

There are 109 waterfalls - big and small - in the Ratnapura district alone. Water keeps gushing down mountain ledges-sometimes gently, sometimes playfully and at other times impressively, in sound and fury.

After a month of waiting to go on an expedition with a group of four, all nature lovers, Chintaka, a self-appointed driver with his 4DR5 Mitsubishi Jeep, Indika, Asitha, with their children and my son and myself, left on the journey from Ratnapura which is our home town. We were extremely excited to get our date during the August school vacation so that our children also could take part in this excursion. So, off we went on a quick one day trip to a lesser-known waterfall called ‘Mapalana Ella’ at Sri Palabaddala in Ratnapura.

Imposing, high, steep mountains clothed in a mantel of greenery with patches of white clouds either drifting across or resting atop them characterise large parts of Sri Pada peak wilderness sanctuary during rainy days. Human settlements with tea plantations dot the slopes and the base of the mountains in most places. Dense forests are largely confined to the mountaintops and deep valleys. In many places rainwater that gathered in these forests emerge as small waterfalls, making the Sri Pada Peak wilderness a sanctuary land of waterfalls.

The Bana Samanala mountain range seen from Gilimale

Our journey branched off from Ratnapura town to Sri Palabaddala via Gilimale. This road which is motorable up to Sri Palabaddala and then the flight of steps leads to summit of Sri Pada is extensively used by the pilgrims to Sri Pada. The weather was rainy and misty and therefore even the majestic mountains at a distance of a kilometre or so were not visible.

Although the road was rough in some places as a result of heavy rains, the drive was enjoyable as the weather was cool, the vegetation all around was lush and green, and there were richly grown tea plantations on either side of the road. Small waterfalls were seen all along the road. Half-dressed children play in front of estate housing gave the impression that in remote villages they have enough to eat, they grow all they need in the salubrious climate. After a few customary views of the meandering Kalu Ganga, we drove to the core area of the sanctuary of peak wilderness. As we stepped on to the rainforest area, we found ourselves in a different world. The forest envelopes all senses and for a moment one feels this is where he belongs. The next instant you realise you actually are an aberration on nature’s perfectly created landscape.

True to its name, the Mapalana waterfall dazzles. A milky white foam bursts forth from apparently invisible hills. The sheet of water that comes crashing down envelopes the area in a fine mist. As you approach the spot, the sound of water echoes all around. When you look up, practically nothing is visible except for the blinding white curtain, which against the light makes the surrounding rolling hills look blue.

Mapalana is Ratnapura’s, most picturesque waterfall, becoming the fourth highest in Sri Lanka reaching 141 metres in height in a rocky formation, perhaps the most mesmerising and liveliest waterfall that is found in the peak wilderness in Sri Pada sanctuary.

Enademic Vesak orchid flower

Cool strean below the fall

According to legend, the fall gets its name from Maapaa-Nana, which later became mapanana and finally Mapalana. This waterfall consists of three sections which originates from 1,868 metres high Bena Samanala (two mountains that flank Sri Pada peak) as the pristine springs which starts from Sri Pada peak massif and the fall form as a cascade in a place called Kondagalathen from where it flows to Maskeli Oya, and streams out to Kalu Ganga from Gilimale. The vicinity of the fall is a rich biodiversity area.

Fortunately, the perennial waterfall is not yet a hot spot for ‘picnickers’ and in that sense, is really a road less travelled and arduous. The place seems to be a roaming place of serious waterfall lovers. There are no ticketing counters, you are free to enjoy yourself. The road is motorable for about two kilometres. You need to park your vehicle near the bridge on the road and walk another 50 metres along a leech-infested footpath to reach the spot.

Having parked our jeep near the bridge, we walked on the pebbled muddy road leading to the waterfall, drinking in the lush beauty of the area. The notice board at the beginning of the road informed visitors that these are evergreen and semi-evergreen forest where Sambar and other small animals such as rabbit, porcupine, monkey and wild boar and a few varieties of birds are occasionally spotted in the peripheral areas. But deep inside, there are wild cat, and sambar. It is also home to endemic flora and fauna such as endemic ‘Vesak orchid’ which only grows in rain forests in Sabaragamuwa province.

Back to the waterfall. Indeed, the continuous stream from a height of 141 metres is a sight worth ‘freezing’. It is interesting to see how the waterfall is compartmentalised here. The gushing stream actually crash down on a huge boulder, curves and forms a second step of water sheet. It is here that the people love to visit. After the steep fall, the water gathers and cascades over small steps.

A series of small rocks lead you to the waterfall. Narrow streams cascading from the rocks overflow into a sparkling small stream. A rock-wall striking the water forms a pool beneath, which looks deceptively shallow. But there are deep, unseen gorges that can be dangerous. The best time to come here is during the rainy days, if you like the fall to be bigger and fiercer.

There is a small cluster of rocks beneath the fall where the stream breaks out into several small shallow streams by the sides of which you can relax. Spend as much time as you will in the Mapalana fall, but keep in mind that you have a great responsibility to protect the virgin environment around it. If you are planning to visit the Mapalana fall, we ask you to enjoy the beauty of the waterfall as much as you can and don’t dump any garbage or litter to pollute the spot.

As we were in the waterfall, it began to drizzle, which soon turned into a full-fledged rain and we remained there for a while, feeling the splash of the ice cold water on our faces and tired feet. It was so refreshingly quiet. Time ticked away and we decided to take the excursion back. The trek gave us a huge appetite. After a hot, simple lunch at Ratnapura, we were on our way back.